Craftsman 137212150 miter saw Parts

On the Craftsman 137212150 miter saw, 31.6° is a built-in positive stop (detent) on the miter scale. It is there because 31.6° is one of the most common preset angles used for fast, repeatable cuts, especially for compound crown molding cuts when the molding is laid flat on the saw table (paired with a 33.9° bevel setting). See the owner's manual.

What 31.6° is used for

The manual lists 31.6° as one of the “most common angle settings” with a positive stop, so you can lock in that angle quickly and accurately.

Common uses include:

• Crown molding compound cuts (typical spring angle setups)
• Trim and casing situations where a standard compound setup is needed
• Repeat production cuts where you want the same angle every time
• Faster setup than “dialing in” an angle between detents

How the positive stop works on this saw

Your 137212150 has a positive stop locking lever and miter handle that work together to snap into preset angles.

Basic steps:

• Lift/unlock the miter table lock.
• Hold the positive stop locking lever down.
• Rotate the table with the miter handle to 31.6° left or right.
• Release the lever and “wiggle” slightly until it fully engages the detent.

Crown molding quick-reference (why 31.6° shows up)

When crown is laid flat, many standard inside and outside corner cuts use the same miter setting.

Cut type (laid flat)	Typical miter	Typical bevel
Inside corner (left or right piece)	31.6°	33.9°
Outside corner (left or right piece)	31.6°	33.9°

Why it matters

That 31.6° detent reduces measuring errors and setup time. For trim work, a small angle mistake can open up gaps at corners, so a factory preset helps you get consistent results.

Last updated: February 2026

Yes. Craftsman makes double bevel miter saw models, but the Craftsman 137212150 covered by this page is a compound miter saw with a 0° to 45° left bevel range (single-bevel), not a double-bevel design. For the exact bevel features and adjustments, use the owner's manual.

How to tell if a miter saw is double bevel

A double bevel miter saw tilts the blade both left and right for bevel cuts. A single bevel saw tilts one direction only.

Check these items on the saw (or in the manual):

• Bevel scale markings: left-only vs left and right
• Bevel lock handle and positive stops: whether stops exist on both sides
• Bevel range statement (example: “0° to 45° left”)
• Fence clearance notes for bevel cuts
• Any mention of “dual bevel” or “double bevel” in the feature list

What the Craftsman 137212150 manual indicates

In the Craftsman 137212150 documentation, the bevel scale is described as measuring the bevel angle 0° to 45° left, which matches a single-bevel compound miter saw.

Quick comparison

Feature	Single bevel miter saw	Double bevel miter saw
Bevel direction	Left or right	Left and right
Common use	Basic trim, framing	Faster crown molding and complex trim
Workpiece flipping	More often	Less often

Why it matters

Double bevel capability saves time and reduces handling errors because you can make matching bevel cuts without flipping long boards. If you do a lot of crown molding or repeated compound cuts, double bevel is a practical upgrade.

Last updated: February 2026

For the Craftsman 137212150 miter saw, never cut metals or masonry, and never cut small pieces that would put your hands within 8-1/2 inches of the blade. Also avoid any freehand cut; the work must be held firmly against the fence and table (use a clamp whenever possible). See the owner's manual for the full safety rules.

Never cut these materials

• Masonry products (brick, tile, concrete, stone)
• Ferrous metals (steel, rebar, nails in lumber)
• Unknown materials that can shatter, melt, or grab the blade
• Wood with embedded fasteners (screws, staples, hidden nails)

Never make these types of cuts

• Small workpieces where your hand or fingers would be within 8-1/2 inches of the blade path
• Freehand cuts (no fence contact, no clamp, or trying to “hold it steady” by hand)
• Cuts with the work not flat on the table and tight to the fence (twisted, bowed, or rocking stock)
• Cuts with the guard defeated or not operating normally

Blade and setup limits that matter on this model

This model is designed for cross-cutting on wood and wood-like products. Blade choice and setup affect safety as much as the material.

Item	What to use	What to avoid
Blade type	Cross-cutting miter saw blade; carbide-tipped with negative hook angle	Thin kerf blades (can deflect and contact the guard)
Work holding	Fence + table contact; clamp when needed	Hand-held metal, round stock that can roll, or anything unstable
Cutting sequence	Let motor reach full speed; wait for blade to stop before raising	Reaching around the blade; lifting the saw before the blade stops

Why it matters

Unsafe materials and unstable workpieces can bind the blade, cause kickback, or pull the work into the blade path. Keeping hands at least 8-1/2 inches away and clamping small or awkward stock prevents sudden movement during the cut.

Last updated: February 2026

A miter saw is made up of the cutting head (motor, handle, switch, and blade), the guarding system, and the base/table assembly that positions and supports your workpiece. On the Craftsman 137212150 miter saw, you will also see features like a fence, miter and bevel controls, and dust collection parts (see the owner's manual).

Main assemblies you will see on the Craftsman 137212150

• Cutting head assembly: motor, cutting head handle, and trigger switch
• Blade and arbor area: saw blade, arbor, and arbor lock (for blade changes)
• Guarding system: upper blade guard and lower blade guard (retracts as you cut)
• Base and table: base, rotating table, and mounting holes for securing the saw
• Work support: fence, left and right extension wings, and sliding fence
• Angle controls: miter handle, miter scale, bevel lock handle, bevel scale, and positive stop locking lever
• Dust management: dust chute, dust bag, and dust collector elbow

What each key part does (quick reference)

Part	What it does	Why you care
Fence	Keeps the workpiece from shifting; helps with repeatable cuts	Improves accuracy and safety
Miter handle and miter scale	Rotates the table left or right for miter cuts	Sets precise angles
Bevel lock handle and bevel scale	Tilts and locks the saw head for bevel cuts	Enables bevel and compound cuts
Lower blade guard	Covers the blade when raised; retracts during the cut	Reduces contact risk
Arbor lock	Holds the blade from spinning during blade removal/installation	Makes blade changes safer
Extension wings	Support long boards on both sides of the table	Prevents tipping and binding

Common accessories and small parts included with many setups

These are often supplied with the saw or used during setup and blade changes:

• Blade wrench (often stored on the saw)
• Hold-down clamp (helps secure the workpiece)
• Dust bag and dust collector elbow
• Power cord storage clips

Why it matters

Knowing the names and functions of the miter saw parts helps you set angles correctly, clamp and support material safely, and identify what to inspect when cuts are inaccurate (for example, fence alignment, miter lock, bevel lock, or guard movement).

Last updated: February 2026

Yes, you can cut a 4x4 with a 12-inch miter saw, but on the Craftsman model 137212150 it is not a single-pass cut at 90 degrees. A 4x4 is about 3-1/2 inches thick, and this saw’s 90-degree crosscut capacity is 2-1/2 inches tall, so you cut it by flipping and cutting from the other side; follow the 137212150 owner's manual for safe setup.

What the Craftsman 137212150 can cut (key capacity)

A 4x4 fails the height limit for a one-pass crosscut on this model.

Cut type	Capacity	What that means for a 4x4
90-degree crosscut	2-1/2 in. x 7-7/8 in.	Too short for a 3-1/2 in. thick post in one pass

How we cut a 4x4 on this saw

Use a flip-cut method so the blade reaches the full thickness.

• Mark the cut line on all four faces of the post.
• Set miter and bevel to 0 degrees for a straight crosscut.
• Hold the post firmly against the fence and table; clamp it whenever possible.
• Make the first cut as deep as the saw allows without forcing the blade.
• Turn the 4x4 over (keep the same face against the fence), align the kerf to your line, then finish the cut.

Blade and material rules that matter

This model is designed to run a 12-inch blade; using the right blade improves control and cut quality.

• Use only crosscutting miter saw blades; carbide-tipped blades should have a negative hook angle.
• Do not use thin-kerf blades (they can deflect).
• Let the motor reach full speed before starting the cut.
• Keep guards in place and wait for the blade to stop before raising the head.
• Cut wood and wood-like products only; do not cut metal, masonry, or use abrasive wheels.

Why it matters

A flip-cut keeps the work supported and controlled while matching the saw’s 2-1/2 inch vertical capacity. Forcing a one-pass cut on oversized stock increases binding, kickback risk, and poor accuracy.

Last updated: February 2026