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Kenmore Elite 25328093806 freezer

Kenmore Elite 25328093806 freezer Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Kenmore Elite 25328093806 freezer, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Browse Parts for 25328093806 Freestanding Freezers

  • Refrigerator Filter Dryer for Kenmore Elite 25328093806 - Part 5303305677

    System diagram

    Filter Drier

    Part #216987501

    Replaced by #5303305677

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  • Frigidaire Freezer Evaporator for Kenmore Elite 25328093806 - Part 297414901

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    Freezer Evaporator

    Part #297414900

    Replaced by #297414901

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  • Refrigerator Evaporator Fan Blade for Kenmore Elite 25328093806 - Part 5308000010

    Cabinet diagram

    Blade

    Part #216325600

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  • Frigidaire Freezer Evaporator Fan Motor for Kenmore Elite 25328093806 - Part 297309000

    Cabinet diagram

    Freezer Evaporator Fan Motor

    Part #297250000

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  • White-westinghouse Freezer Heat Exchanger for Kenmore Elite 25328093806 - Part 297217900

    System diagram

    White-westinghouse Freezer Heat Exchanger

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  • White-westinghouse Freezer Defrost Heater for Kenmore Elite 25328093806 - Part 5304496284

    System diagram

    Defrost Heat

    Part #297348700

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  • White-westinghouse Freezer Compressor Start Relay for Kenmore Elite 25328093806 - Part 297259515

    System diagram

    Freezer Start Relay

    Part #297259502

    Replaced by #297259515

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  • Refrigerator Compressor for Kenmore Elite 25328093806 - Part 5304475098

    System diagram

    Compressor

    Part #297437652

    Replaced by #5304475098

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  • Freezer Temperature Sensor for Kenmore Elite 25328093806 - Part 297018400

    System diagram

    Freezer Temperature Sensor

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  • Refrigerator Screw for Kenmore Elite 25328093806 - Part 240578902

    Cabinet diagram

    Freezer Tamper-proof Screw, 1/4-20 X 5/8-in

    Part #297236200

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Kenmore Elite Freezer 25328093806 FAQs

The Kenmore Elite upright freezer model 25328093806 is an upright (freestanding) freezer in the 253.2809 model series; its exact exterior dimensions and cubic-foot capacity vary by sub-model and are listed in the 25328093806 owner's manual. For planning space, most upright freezers in this class are roughly 28 to 33 inches wide and 60 to 72 inches tall.

How to find the exact size for your 25328093806

Use the model-specific specifications section in the 25328093806 owner's manual. If you are measuring for a move, cabinetry, or a tight doorway, measure the unit directly as well.

  • Measure width at the widest point (often the hinge side)
  • Measure height to the top of the hinge cover (if present)
  • Measure depth with the door closed, then again including the handle
  • Confirm you have clearance for door swing and airflow
  • If the freezer is in a garage or utility room, allow extra space for ventilation

Quick planning guide (typical upright freezer ranges)

These ranges help with rough fit checks when you do not have the spec page in front of you.

Measurement Typical range for upright freezers What to measure on your unit
Width 28 to 33 in. Cabinet edge to cabinet edge
Height 60 to 72 in. Floor to top of hinge area
Depth 28 to 34 in. Back to front of door (and handle)

Why it matters

Getting the size right prevents delivery problems and helps the freezer cool properly. Tight installs can restrict airflow, which can lead to longer run times and temperature swings. The manual also covers proper cool-down time (allow about 4 hours before loading unfrozen food).

Last updated: January 2026

If your Kenmore Elite upright freezer model 25328093806 is running but not freezing, the most common causes are incorrect temperature control settings, poor airflow from overloading, a door seal leak, or a cooling-system/defrost problem. Start by confirming the control is not set to OFF and allow several hours for temperatures to stabilize per the 25328093806 owner's manual.

Quick checks we recommend first

  • Make sure the temperature control is not in the OFF position.
  • Confirm the power cord plug is pushed tightly into the outlet.
  • Keep the door closed as much as possible; frequent openings quickly warm the cabinet.
  • Allow a full 4 hours for the freezer to cool down after startup before judging performance.
  • Avoid overloading with unfrozen food; freeze only about 3 lb of fresh food per cubic foot at one time.

What to check next (most likely causes)

1) Temperature control and cool-down time

The manual notes the freezer needs time to stabilize after changes. If you recently adjusted the control, wait several hours before changing it again.

2) Door not sealing (warm air leak)

A leaking gasket can cause constant running with weak freezing.

What you notice What it usually points to What to do
Frost near the door, cabinet sweating Door not sealing Clean gasket and mating surface; check for gaps
Door pops open or won’t stay shut Leveling or overloaded door bins Re-level, reduce door load
Paper slips out easily when closed Worn gasket Replace the gasket

If the gasket is torn, hardened, or warped, replacing the freezer door gasket 5304507205 is a common fix.

3) Frost buildup from a defrost failure

If the evaporator area is packed with frost, airflow drops and temperatures rise. A failed defrost heater is a frequent culprit; for this model, the defrost heat 5304496284 is a key part in that circuit.

4) Weak airflow inside the freezer

If you hear the freezer running but feel little or no air movement, the evaporator fan system is suspect. For this model, common related parts include the freezer evaporator fan motor 297309000 and the blade 5308000010.

Why it matters

A freezer that is not freezing can quickly put food at risk. The manual notes frozen foods can stay frozen for at least 24 hours during a failure if the door stays closed, so minimizing door openings buys you time while you troubleshoot.

Last updated: January 2026

The most common freezer problem is poor cooling caused by restricted airflow or warm air leaking in through the door. On Kenmore model 25328093806, frequent door openings, a door that is slightly open, or a worn gasket can make the freezer run too long and build frost; the troubleshooting chart in the 25328093806 owner's manual covers these symptoms.

Most common causes (and what you can check first)

  • Door not sealing: door left ajar, door not seating properly, or gasket dirty, cracked, or poorly fitted.
  • Warm air getting in: doors opened too frequently or kept open too long.
  • Unit not level: cabinet can twist slightly and misalign the door.
  • Recent loading or power interruption: warm food or a recent unplug can make run time seem excessive.
  • Dirty condenser area: reduced heat release can lead to longer run times (common on many upright freezers).

Quick symptom-to-likely-cause guide

What you notice Most likely cause What to do next
Freezer runs “too much” Door openings, warm food load, door slightly open Reduce door time; confirm door closes fully
Frost building up inside Door not sealing or opened often Inspect gasket and door alignment
Moisture/frost outside cabinet Warm, moist air meeting cold air at the door Improve seal; clean gasket
Rattling/vibration Freezer not level or touching wall Level unit; move slightly away from wall

Steps we recommend (in order)

  1. Confirm the door closes and seals: close the door on a thin sheet of paper; it should drag when you pull it out.
  2. Clean the gasket: warm water and mild soap; dry fully so it grips.
  3. Level the freezer: adjust feet so it does not rock; this helps the door seat correctly.
  4. Give temperatures time to stabilize: after changes, allow several hours for the control setting to take effect.
  5. If the gasket is torn or hardened: replace the freezer door gasket 5304507205.

Why it matters

Air leaks and airflow restrictions force the compressor to run longer, which increases frost buildup, raises energy use, and can lead to temperature swings that affect food quality.

Last updated: January 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your freestanding freezers

Choose a symptom to see related freezer repairs.

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Main causes: lack of power, control system failure, broken compressor start relay, locked up compressor, compressor moto…

Main causes: leaky door or lid gasket, broken defrost heater, bad defrost bi-metal thermostat, defrost control failure, …

Main causes: lack of power, bad compressor, refrigerant leak, bad thermistor, defrost system failure, dirty condenser co…

Main causes: damaged door or lid gasket, cracked cabinet liner, bad defrost bi-metal thermostat, broken defrost heater, …

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Main causes: compressor failure, no refrigerant, faulty sensor, control failure, broken defrost heater, bad defrost bi-m…

Main causes: excessive frost, bad defrost heater, bad defrost bi-metal, control system failure, low refrigerant charge, …

Repair guides for upright freezers

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How to replace a freezer electronic control board

The electronic control board manages the compressor to control freezer temperature. Replace the control board using the…

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How to replace a freezer thermistor

When the thermistor can’t sense the freezer temperature, the freezer is colder or warmer than the set temperature. Follo…

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How to replace a freezer door switch

How to replace a freezer door switch

When the door switch fails, the freezer can’t detect that the door is closed. Follow the steps in this repair guide to r…

Repair time and Difficulty

 15 minutes or less

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