Samsung top-load washer error codes

Samsung

These error code explanations can help you diagnose a problem with your Samsung top-load washer. For repair how-to help, visit the PartsDirect repair help section, which includes repair help for washing machines, other major appliances, lawn and garden equipment, garage door openers, vacuum cleaners and more. Search for your model number to find a complete list of replacement parts for your washer.

Error Code
Condition
DIY advice
1E

Water level sensor failure

Check/Repair

Unplug the washer and check the wire harness between the water level sensor and the main control board. Reconnect any loose wires or replace the wire harness if damaged. If you find no wiring problems, replace the water level sensor.

Possible parts
Water level sensor, wire harness
3E

Drive motor or hall sensor (tachometer) error

Check/Repair

Unplug the washer and check the wire harness between the drive motor and the electronic control board. Reconnect any loose wires or replace the wire harness if damaged. If you find no wiring problems, replace the hall sensor. If the problem continues, replace the drive motor.

Possible parts
Hall sensor (tachometer), drive motor
nF or nF1

Water supply error

Check/Repair

Make sure that the water supply faucets behind the washer are fully open. Check for frozen water fill lines in the winter. Unplug the washer, shut off the water supply faucets and disconnect the fill hoses from the back of the washer to check for proper water flow. If water flow through the hoses is inadequate, have a plumber repair the water supply to the faucets. If water flows okay, check the inlet screens on the water inlet valve assembly. If the screens are clogged, replace the water inlet valve assembly rather than cleaning the screens. Cleaning could allow debris to enter the valves, resulting in the valves sticking open and causing a flood. Check the drain hose for proper installation. An improperly installed drain hose causes fill water to siphon out through the washer drain. If you find no problems with the water supply or drain hoses and you haven't already replaced the water inlet valve assembly, do so now.

Possible parts
Water inlet valve assembly
nD

Won't drain

Check/Repair

Check your house's washer drain and the washer's drain hose for clogs and clear any clogs found. Unplug the washer and check the drain pump for a clog. Clear the large item filter in the drain pump. If the drain pump doesn't drain the water when activated, replace it.

Possible parts
Drain pump
AE

Communication error between the main electronic control board and the display control in the control panel

Check/Repair

Unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections between the main electronic control board and the display control board in the control panel. Reconnect any loose wires or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wire harness connections are okay, replace the display control board. If the problem continues, replace the main electronic control board.

Possible parts
Display control board, main electronic control board
E2

Stuck button

Check/Repair

A button on the control panel is stuck. Try to free the button. Press down directly on top of all keys on the control panel. If that doesn't free the stuck key, press down slightly off-center on all keys. If you can't free the button, replace the display control board.

Possible parts
Display control board
DS, FL or LO

Lid lock/switch failure

Check/Repair

The control detects that the washer lid is open while attempting to lock it or that the lid failed to unlock or lock. If the lid won't lock or unlock when closed, unplug the washer and replace the lid lock/switch assembly.

Possible parts
Lid lock/switch assembly
HE1

Heating element failure

Check/Repair

Unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections between the heating element and the main electronic control board. Reconnect any loose wires or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wires are okay, measure the resistance of the heating element using a multimeter. You should measure around 12 ohms of resistance through the heating element. If you measure infinite resistance through the heating element, replace it because the infinite resistance reading indicates it's broken. If the heating element and wiring connections are okay, replace the main electronic control board.

Possible parts
Heating element, main electronic control board
LE

Water leakage

Check/Repair

The control detects water level dropping during the wash or rinse portion of the cycle. Unplug the washer and replace the outer tub if it's cracked or damaged. Replace any damaged hoses or components connected to the outer tub. Check the drain hose for proper installation. An improperly installed drain hose causes fill water to siphon out through the washer drain.

Possible parts
Outer tub, hoses and components attached to the tub
OE

Water overflow

Check/Repair

If the washer is overfilled, unplug it to see if it continues to fill while unplugged. If it does, replace the water inlet valve assembly because the inlet water valves aren't shutting off water flow. If the washer isn't overfilled, replace the water level sensor because it isn't accurately detecting water level.

Possible parts
Water inlet valve assembly, water level sensor
tE1

Temperature too high or low

Check/Repair

Unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections between the temperature sensor and the main electronic control board. Reconnect any loose wires or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wires are okay, replace the temperature sensor.

Possible parts
Temperature sensor
dc

Unbalanced load

Check/Repair

An unbalanced is detected during the final spin. The basket won't spin over 150 rpm when this code is displayed. Cancel the cycle or let it end. Adjust the load and see if the washer spins properly. If not, inspect the suspension system and replace any defective parts.

Possible parts
Suspension system components
PE or PE1

Clutch motor failure

Check/Repair

Unplug the washer and check the wire connections between the clutch motor and the main electronic control board. Reconnect any loose wires or replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wires are okay, disconnect the clutch motor wire harness and measure the resistance between terminals 1 and 3. You should measure around 2,000 ohms. If you measure infinite resistance, replace the clutch motor because the infinite resistance reading indicates that it's broken.

Possible parts
Clutch motor, wire harness
Sud or Sd

Excessive suds

Check/Repair

Excessive suds is detected during the cycle. The cycle goes into a suds kill routine by filling the tube with water and then tumbling the clothes. If this routine doesn't eliminate the suds, the control displays the Sd code. Use the right amount of high-efficiency (HE) detergent with future loads.

Possible parts
HE detergent

Symptoms common to all washers

Choose a symptom to see related washer repairs.

Main causes: clogged drain hose, house drain clogged, bad drain pump, water-level pressure switch failure, bad control board or timer
Main causes: water heater failure, bad water temperature switch, faulty control board, bad water valve, faulty water temperature sensor
Main causes: bad lid switch or door lock, bad timer or electronic control board, wiring failure, bad water inlet valve assembly
Main causes: worn agitator dogs, bad clutch, broken motor coupler, shifter assembly failure, broken door lock, suspension component failure
Main causes: broken lid switch or lid lock, bad pressure switch, broken shifter assembly, faulty control system
Main causes: lack of electrical power, wiring failure, bad power cord, electronic control board failure, bad user interface board
Main causes: leaky water inlet valve, faulty water-level pressure switch, bad electronic control board
Main causes: unbalanced load, loose spanner nut, worn drive block, broken shock absorber or suspension spring, debris in drain pump
Main causes: no water supply, bad water valves, water-level pressure switch failure, control system failure, bad door lock or lid switch

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