Marvel Freestanding ice maker Parts — Browse All Models

Top replacement parts for Marvel freestanding ice makers

• Ice bin thermistor. The bin thermistor senses the temperature at the Full mark in the storage bin and communicates the temperature to the electronic control board through a wire harness connection. When the electronic control board senses that the ice storage bin is full based on the bin thermistor reading, it stops ice production until the level of ice drops below the Full mark.
• Drain pump. The drain pump moves water out of the reservoir when the reservoir is flushed periodically to remove impurities and to remove water from ice that’s slowly melting in the ice bin.
• Condenser fan motor. The condenser fan motor pulls air through the condenser to cool the hot refrigerant gas so it condenses to a liquid. The cool liquid refrigerant flows through the evaporator plate in the ice maker. In the low-pressure environment of the evaporator plate, the liquid refrigerant from the condenser evaporates to a gas. During this evaporation process, the refrigerant absorbs heat from the water that’s cycling across the top of the evaporator plate, and the water freezes.
• Evaporator thermistor. The evaporator thermistor senses the temperature of the evaporator plate to detect the thickness of the ice slab forming on the evaporator plate during the ice-making process. It communicates the evaporator temperature to the electronic control board through a wire harness connection. When the slab is thick enough to be cut into cubes, the electronic control board initiates that process, based on the evaporator thermistor’s temperature reading.

Troubleshooting your Marvel freestanding ice maker when it runs but makes no ice

When the ice maker runs but doesn't make any ice, a bad electronic control board, failed water supply, broken recirculation pump, sealed system failure or broken cutting grid could be causing the problem.

A faulty electronic control board can prevent the ice maker from making any ice. A power surge through the electrical supply line to the ice maker can lock up the control board, so reset the control board by unplugging the ice maker for one minute, then restoring electrical power.

If the ice maker doesn't start making ice, check the evaporator plate. If the evaporator plate is dry and the water reservoir is full, then the recirculation pump is likely bad. If the reservoir is empty, check the water supply going to the ice maker. To check the water supply, unplug the ice maker and shut off the water supply cut-off valve. Disconnect the water supply line from the ice maker and place the end of the water supply line in a container. Briefly open the water supply cut-off valve and check for water flow from the end of the water supply line. If no water flows through the end of the supply line, have a plumber fix the water supply going to the ice maker. If water does flow through the supply line, you'll likely need to replace the water inlet valve because it's not opening to allow water to flow into the reservoir.

If the water reservoir and is full and water flows over the evaporator plate but doesn't freeze, then a failed condenser fan, bad compressor or lack of refrigerant could be preventing the evaporator plate from getting cold and freezing the water. Replace the condenser fan if it doesn't run when activated. If the condenser fan runs, you'll need to have a service technician diagnose and repair the sealed system, which includes the compressor and connecting tubes that carry refrigerant. The sealed system should only be repaired by a service technician because the repair involves the recovery and recharge of refrigerant, which is tightly regulated by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA).

If water freezes on the evaporator plate but the slab of ice sticks on top of the cutting grid and doesn't get cut into cubes and drop down into the bin, then you may need to replace the cutting grid if its grid wires don't heat up when activated.