Get free shipping on your order, with any water filter subscription. Find my filter

Open Hamburger Menu
Sears Parts Direct
Tips to find your model number
Craftsman 137212030 compound miter saw

Craftsman 137212030 compound miter saw Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Craftsman 137212030 compound miter saw, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

By Schematic
SELECT DIAGRAM
?

This is the number corresponding to the part on the diagram / schematic

Browse Parts for 137212030 Power Tools

  • Miter Saw Motor Brush Holder for Craftsman 137212030 - Part 0QQS

    Motor assy diagram

    Miter Saw Motor Brush Holder

    Part #0QQS

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Wire Spring for Craftsman 137212030 - Part 0CKS

    Saw assy diagram

    Wire Spring

    Part #0CKS

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Miter Saw Screw, #6-1 X 16-mm, 20-pack for Craftsman 137212030 - Part 0K5C

    Saw assy diagram

    Miter Saw Screw, #6-1 X 16-mm, 20-pack

    Part #0K5C

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Wire for Craftsman 137212030 - Part 0QMY

    Motor assy diagram

    Wire

    Part #0QMY

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Miter Saw Trigger for Craftsman 137212030 - Part 083R

    Saw assy diagram

    Miter Saw Trigger

    Part #083R

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Spring Pin for Craftsman 137212030 - Part 1102

    Motor assy diagram

    Spring Pin

    Part #1102

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Table for Craftsman 137212030 - Part 0S1P

    Saw assy diagram

    Table

    Part #0S1P

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Label for Craftsman 137212030 - Part 084W

    Saw assy diagram

    Label

    Part #084W

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Miter Saw Bolt for Craftsman 137212030 - Part 2B5S

    Saw assy diagram

    Miter Saw Bolt

    Part #2B5S

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Screw for Craftsman 137212030 - Part 0KLA

    Motor assy diagram

    Screw

    Part #0KLA

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

Craftsman Compound Miter Saw 137212030 FAQs

For most DIY and trim work, a 10-inch miter saw is the better all-around choice because it’s lighter, easier to handle, and blades cost less; a 12-inch saw is better when you regularly need more cut capacity for wide boards and tall molding. Craftsman model 137212030 is a 10-inch compound miter saw, so it uses 10-inch blades.

Quick comparison: 10-inch vs 12-inch

Feature 10-inch miter saw 12-inch miter saw
Best fit for Trim, baseboard, casing, light framing Wide stock, tall crown molding, heavier-duty work
Portability Lighter, easier to move Heavier, bulkier
Blade cost Typically lower Typically higher
Cut capacity Smaller Larger
Typical feel Easier to control for fine trim More mass; can feel less nimble

What to choose based on your work

  • Choose 10-inch when you want portability, lower blade cost, and you cut mostly 1x and 2x material.
  • Choose 12-inch when you frequently cut wider boards and want to avoid flipping the workpiece.
  • Choose the size your saw is built for; using the correct blade diameter keeps guard coverage and cutting geometry correct.

What matters most for clean, accurate cuts (either size)

  • Use the correct arbor size and blade type (fine-tooth for trim, fewer teeth for framing).
  • Keep the fence and table square; re-check after transporting the saw.
  • Support long stock so it stays flat on the table.
  • Let the blade reach full speed before entering the cut.
  • Replace worn items (blade, guard components, switch) when performance or safety is affected.

Why it matters

Blade diameter drives cut capacity, tool weight, and blade cost. For Craftsman 137212030, sticking with a 10-inch blade ensures proper clearance, safe guarding, and predictable cut accuracy.

Parts and model match tip

When you’re buying replacement parts, match them to the exact model number 137212030. If you don’t see what you need listed for this model, search by model number on Sears PartsDirect.

Last updated: February 2026

There is no single “best” miter saw brand for everyone; the best choice depends on how you use your saw (trim work vs. framing), how often you cut, and what accuracy features you need. For owners of the Craftsman 137212030 compound miter saw, we focus on keeping your saw cutting safely and accurately with the right maintenance and replacement parts from Sears PartsDirect.

How to choose the best miter saw brand for your needs

When you compare brands, we recommend prioritizing these factors over the name on the badge:

  • Cut accuracy and repeatability: solid miter detents, minimal head play, stable fence
  • Capacity: blade size and crosscut width for the material you actually cut
  • Adjustment and calibration: easy-to-set bevel stops, miter scale readability
  • Dust collection: effective port design and bag or vacuum compatibility
  • Serviceability: common wear parts available (switch, brushes, guard components)

Quick brand comparison (what typically separates them)

These are the differences customers most often notice across major miter saw lines.

What you care about What to look for Why it matters
Finish-trim precision Tight detents, rigid rails, stable fence Cleaner miters and fewer re-cuts
Jobsite durability Robust base, smooth pivot points, proven motor design Less downtime and fewer alignment issues
Value Good calibration features at a lower price Better results without overbuying
Long-term ownership Parts availability and straightforward repairs Keeps a saw useful for years

What we recommend for Craftsman 137212030 owners

If you already own the Craftsman 137212030, the “best” upgrade is usually getting it back to peak performance:

  • Square the fence and blade before judging cut quality
  • Verify the miter detents hit true 0°, 45° left, and 45° right
  • Check the bevel stop at 0° and common bevel angles
  • Inspect the blade for dull teeth, pitch buildup, or wobble
  • Confirm the guard returns freely and the trigger switch feels consistent

Why it matters

A well-calibrated compound miter saw can outperform a more expensive saw that is out of alignment. Accuracy, safety (blade guard and switch), and repeatable settings are what make a saw feel “best” in real use.

Last updated: February 2026

On a Craftsman 137212030 compound miter saw, never rip-cut lumber (with the grain), never cut ferrous metals (steel or iron) or masonry, and never cut any workpiece that is too small or too thick to be held firmly against the fence and table. Use the correct tool for those jobs.

Materials and cuts to avoid

  • Rip cuts (with the grain): miter saws are built for crosscuts and miter/bevel crosscuts, not ripping.
  • Ferrous metals (steel, iron): can grab the blade, throw sparks, and damage the saw.
  • Masonry (brick, tile, concrete): abrasive dust and binding can overload the saw and reduce control.
  • Tiny, unsupported pieces: short offcuts and narrow parts can shift, lift, or kick back.
  • Warped or twisted wood (unclamped): rocking or pinching increases binding and kickback risk.
  • Freehand cuts: cutting without the work tight to the fence and table is unsafe.

Use the saw within its cutting capacity

Your 137212030 is designed around a specific blade size and cutting envelope. The safest rule is simple: if the material cannot sit flat on the table and tight to the fence while still clearing the blade guard and allowing a controlled, complete stroke, do not cut it.

If you need to do this Use this instead Why it matters
Rip a board Table saw with rip fence, or circular saw with a straightedge Prevents the board from twisting and climbing the blade
Cut steel/iron Metal-cutting saw with the correct blade Reduces tooth grab and loss of control
Cut brick/tile Masonry saw or angle grinder with masonry wheel Built for abrasive cutting and dust
Cut very small parts Clamp plus a stop block, or cut from longer stock Keeps hands away and prevents shifting

Why it matters

Most miter saw injuries and damaged blades happen when the workpiece moves. Keeping the material fully supported, clamped when needed, and matched to the saw’s intended cut type prevents binding, kickback, and loss of control.

Parts and help

If you need replacement parts (guard pieces, switches, fences, hardware), match parts by the full model number 137212030 and shop through the model’s parts list or search by model on Sears PartsDirect.

Last updated: February 2026

On a Craftsman 137212030 compound miter saw, the 31.6° miter mark is there to simplify common crown molding corner cuts. It is a standard “compound” setting used with a matching bevel angle (often 33.9°) to produce tight inside and outside corner joints when crown is cut using typical spring angles.

What the 31.6° setting is used for

Most miter saws include common detents for framing and trim; 31.6° is a specialty detent aimed at crown molding.

  • Helps create a 45° corner joint without doing trigonometry on the job
  • Commonly paired with a 33.9° bevel for compound crown cuts
  • Used when crown molding is cut using a compound setup (miter plus bevel)
  • Reduces trial-and-error when you are repeating the same corner type
  • Speeds up production work for trim carpentry and DIY projects

Typical angle pairings (quick reference)

These are the most common “built-in” crown molding compound settings you will see on many saws.

Crown molding spring angle Typical miter setting Typical bevel setting
38° spring angle (common) 31.6° 33.9°
45° spring angle (less common) 35.3° 30.0°

How to use it without confusion

The exact steps depend on whether you cut crown nested (against the fence) or laid flat (using compound angles). In general, the 31.6° mark is most helpful when you are using the compound method.

  • Confirm the crown’s spring angle (often printed on the molding or packaging)
  • Decide inside corner vs outside corner, then set the miter direction accordingly
  • Set the bevel to the matching value (commonly 33.9° when using 31.6°)
  • Make a test cut on scrap and check the corner fit before cutting finish pieces
  • Keep the workpiece firmly supported; crown is tall and can shift during the cut

Why it matters

Crown molding corners are unforgiving; a small angle error creates visible gaps. The 31.6° detent exists to make a repeatable, accurate setup faster, especially when you are cutting multiple corners.

For parts and diagrams for your saw, start with the model-specific parts list and then search by model number on Sears PartsDirect.

Last updated: February 2026

Parts & More

Boating
Bottom-Mount Refrigerator
Central Air Conditioner
Dishwasher
Electric Chainsaw
Gas Range
Gas Snowblower
Parts
Television
Top-Mount Refrigerator
Treadmill
Washer