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Craftsman 113236150 scroll saw

Craftsman 113236150 scroll saw Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Craftsman 113236150 scroll saw, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Browse Parts for 113236150 Power Tools

  • T-handle Wrench for Craftsman 113236150 - Part 820333

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    T-handle Wrench

    Part #820333

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Craftsman Knob for Craftsman 113236150 - Part 821697-1

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    Craftsman Knob

    Part #821697-1

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Blades-18th for Craftsman 113236150 - Part 26879

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    Blades-18th

    Part #26879

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Screw for Craftsman 113236150 - Part 817450-1

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    Screw

    Part #817450-1

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Clamp for Craftsman 113236150 - Part 820316

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    Clamp

    Part #820316

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Hose for Craftsman 113236150 - Part 819248-1

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    Hose

    Part #819248-1

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Craftsman Screw for Craftsman 113236150 - Part 820249-1

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    Craftsman Screw

    Part #820249-1

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Nut for Craftsman 113236150 - Part 816017

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    Nut

    Part #816017

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Scroll Saw Blade Change Rod for Craftsman 113236150 - Part 820733

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    Scroll Saw Blade Change Rod

    Part #820733

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Support for Craftsman 113236150 - Part 821683

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    Support

    Part #821683

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

Craftsman Scroll Saw 113236150 FAQs

On the Craftsman 113236150 scroll saw, you change the blade by unplugging the saw, releasing blade tension, removing the blade from the upper and lower blade holders, then installing the new blade with the teeth facing down (it cuts on the downstroke) and re-tensioning it. See the 113236150 owner's manual for the exact steps and diagrams.

Safety first (do this every time)
  • Turn the switch OFF.
  • Unplug the power cord before touching the blade.
  • Wait for all moving parts to stop.
  • Keep fingers clear of the blade holders and clamps.
  • Use the correct blade type for your setup (pin end vs plain end).
Blade change steps (pin end blades)
  1. Unplug the saw.
  2. Loosen blade tension by turning the tension knob counterclockwise about three full turns.
  3. Remove the blade from the blade holders:
    • Push down on the upper arm to help free the blade.
    • Release the blade pin from the lower blade holder, then remove it from the upper holder.
  4. Install the new blade:
    • Make sure the teeth point down so it cuts on the downstroke.
    • Seat the blade pins fully into the upper and lower holders.
  5. Re-tension the blade using the tension knob.
  6. Plug the saw back in and make a short test cut on scrap wood.
Quick checks after installing a new blade
  • Blade direction: teeth down
  • Blade seated: pins fully captured in both holders
  • Tension: firm enough to prevent slipping, not so tight it snaps easily
Symptom Most likely cause Fix
Blade breaks quickly Too much tension or twisting the workpiece Reduce tension slightly; feed slower and keep the cut straight
Saw won’t cut well Teeth installed upside down or blade dull Reinstall teeth down; replace blade
Blade slips out Pins not seated or tension too loose Reseat pins; increase tension
Why it matters

This saw cuts on the downstroke, and scroll saw blades dull fast (often within 1/2 hour to 2 hours of cutting). Correct blade direction and proper tension improve cut quality, reduce burning, and help prevent blade breakage.

Last updated: February 2026

For the Craftsman 113236150 scroll saw, start by matching the blade to your material thickness and the tightness of the curves you need to cut. This model is set up for 5-inch pin-end blades, and finer, narrower blades are best for thin stock and tight-radius work.

Blade selection rules (what to choose and when)
  • Thin material (1/4 inch or less): use a very fine, narrow blade for better control and tighter curves.
  • Thicker wood (over 1/4 inch): use a wider blade so it tracks straighter and resists bending.
  • Tight curves: choose a narrower blade; it turns in a smaller radius.
  • Straighter cuts and larger curves: choose a wider blade; it stays more stable.
  • Plywood: expect faster blade wear because plywood is abrasive; keep spare blades on hand.
  • Material type: this saw is intended for wood, wood-like products, plastics, and non-ferrous metals; pick a blade designed for that material.
Quick guide: blade width vs. cut quality
What you need Blade style to favor What to expect
Tight inside cuts, small radius Narrow, fine-tooth Best turning control; slower feed rate
General scrolling in thicker stock Wider blade Straighter tracking; larger turning radius
Cleaner bottom surface Reverse-tooth style (if available in pin-end) Reduced bottom tear-out
Faster sawdust clearing Skip-tooth style Smoother progress in softer woods
Setup and use tips that prevent broken blades
  • Install the blade so the teeth cut on the downstroke.
  • Guide the work slowly; scroll saw teeth are small and remove material only on the downstroke.
  • For best results, cut wood under 1 inch thick; if you cut thicker than 1 inch, feed very, very slowly and avoid twisting the blade.
  • Replace blades often; typical sharp life is about 1/2 hour to 2 hours of cutting.
Why it matters

The right blade reduces burning, wandering cuts, and breakage. On the 113236150, choosing the correct blade width for thickness and curve radius is the fastest way to get accurate scroll work and longer blade life.

For blade type, installation, and tensioning details specific to this saw, follow the 113236150 owner's manual.

Last updated: February 2026

On the Craftsman 113236150 scroll saw, we typically get the best results cutting wood under 1 inch thick; it can cut thicker stock up to about 2 inches, but you must feed the work very slowly and use the right 5-inch pin-end blade for the material and curve radius (details are in the owner's manual).

Practical thickness guidelines (what to expect)
  • Best quality cuts: under 1 inch thick (smoother cut, less blade deflection)
  • Thicker cuts (over 1 inch): possible, but slow feed is required to avoid twisting or bending the blade
  • Upper end for this saw: about 2 inches in wood and wood-like products when using an appropriate blade and patient feed rate
  • Hardwoods vs. softwoods: hardwoods effectively reduce the “easy” thickness; expect slower cutting and more blade wear
  • Blade choice matters: wider blades handle thicker stock better; narrow blades are for thin stock and tight curves
Blade and material notes for model 113236150

This model uses 5-inch long, pin-end type blades only. For safe, predictable cutting:

  • Use fine, narrow blades for thin wood (around 1/4 inch or less) and tight-radius scrolling
  • Use wider blades when cutting over 1/4 inch thick
  • Replace blades often; worn teeth increase burning, wandering cuts, and breakage
  • Cut on the downstroke; keep the work flat and guided steadily into the blade
Quick reference table
Wood thickness What you’ll see Best approach
1/8" to 1/4" Tight curves, clean detail Fine, narrow blade; moderate speed
1/4" to 1" Most common scroll-saw work Match blade width to curve size
1" to 2" Slower cutting, more drift risk Wider blade; very slow feed; avoid twisting
Why it matters

Cutting beyond the “sweet spot” thickness increases blade deflection and heat, which leads to inaccurate cuts and frequent blade breakage. Staying under 1 inch when possible gives cleaner results and longer blade life.

Last updated: February 2026

For the Craftsman 16-inch scroll saw model 113236150, use 5-inch long, pin-end scroll saw blades. This model is designed for pin-end blades only, so plain-end blades will not clamp correctly.

How to choose the right blade for your cut

Blade “size” usually means both the blade type (pin-end vs. plain-end) and the tooth pattern/width matched to material thickness.

  • Use very fine, narrow blades for thin stock (about 1/4 inch thick or less) and tight curves.
  • Use wider blades for thicker wood (over 1/4 inch thick) and straighter cuts.
  • Feed thicker material slowly (especially over 1 inch thick) to avoid bending or twisting the blade.
  • Replace blades often; dull teeth cause burning, wandering cuts, and breakage.
  • Match the blade to the material (wood, plastics, and non-ferrous metals are typical for this saw).
Quick compatibility checklist (113236150)
Item to match What this saw needs What to avoid
Blade length 5 inch Other lengths
Blade end type Pin-end Plain-end (pinless)
Blade width Narrow for tight curves; wider for thicker stock Too wide for tight curves
Why it matters

Using the correct 5-inch pin-end blade helps the blade seat securely in the upper and lower holders, keeps tension stable, and improves cut accuracy. The wrong blade style can slip, break, or damage the blade clamping parts.

Where to confirm blade requirements

The blade type and general blade-selection guidance for model 113236150 are listed in the owner's manual.

Last updated: February 2026

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