Laundry Center: Washer won't fill
Lack of water supply, a failed lid switch or lid lock switch, bad water level pressure switch, failed control or lack of washer electrical power can prevent the washer on a laundry center from filling. Check the water supply first. Make sure that your water supply faucets behind the washer are fully open.
If the water supply is okay, then a failed water valve can prevent the washer from filling. To check both hot and cold water valves, cycle through the water temperature settings and see if the washer fills using all of the different temperature settings. If the washer fills on the hot setting and not the cold, then you'll likely need to replace a faulty cold water valve. If the washer only fills on the cold setting, then you'll likely need to replace a bad hot water valve.
The fill valves buzz faintly when they're getting electric current from the timer or electronic control board. If you don't hear a buzz indicating that the water valve assembly is getting power during the fill portion of the cycle, check the lid switch. Many laundry center washers won't fill with water if the lid switch doesn't detect that the lid is closed. To check the lid switch, unplug the laundry center and check continuity through the lid switch with the washer lid closed. Replace the lid switch if you don't measure continuity through the switch with the washer lid closed.
If the lid switch is okay, then a bad water level pressure switch may be preventing the inlet water valves from getting power. The water level pressure switch won't send current to the fill valves if a stuck contact in the water level pressure switch errantly detects that the washer is already full of water when it's actually empty. Using the wiring diagram for reference, check for continuity through the water level pressure switch contact that sends current to the fill valves when the washer tub is empty and replace the water level pressure switch if it isn't allowing current to flow to the water valve assembly. You can typically find the wiring diagram in the laundry center's console (also known as the control panel) or as a page of the parts list diagram.
If the water level pressure switch is okay, then a bad control timer or electronic control board may be preventing the inlet water valve from getting power.
For laundry centers that use a timer, check continuity through the timer using the wiring diagram as a guide. Replace the timer if it isn't allowing current to flow to the inlet water valve assembly.
A laundry center washer that uses an electronic control board often has a self-diagnostic feature so the control will signal an error code when the washer doesn't fill. If the control signals an error code, look it up on our error code charts and troubleshoot the cause. The washer will likely fill with water again after you find and fix the cause of the error code.
For some Frigidaire and Kenmore 417-series laundry centers with electric dryers and timer controls, if the washer is completely dead and the dryer runs but doesn't heat, then a tripped circuit breaker might be preventing the washer from getting power. Check the wiring diagram for your laundry center to see if the L2 leg of current supplies power to the dryer motor through the timer. In this type of laundry center, the washer and one side of the heating element are powered by the L1 leg of 240-volt power while the dryer motor and the other side of the heating element are powered by the L2 leg of 240-volt power. Reset the house circuit breakers for the laundry center to restore the L1 leg of 240-volt power. If the washer doesn't get power and the dryer doesn't heat after resetting the house circuit breakers, then the laundry center's electrical outlet may be bad. Have an electrician check the outlet and repair it if it's not supplying the laundry center with 240-volt power.
Replace the laundry center lid lock assembly
The lid lock assembly is a safety device that senses if the washer lid is shut and locks the lid shut during the spin cycle. The lid lock switch shuts off the washer motor if the lid is lifted during agitation. If the lid lock fails to detect that the lid is shut or fails to lock the lid during the spin cycle, replace the lid lock assembly.
Replace the laundry center washer timer
The washer timer controls the washer components. Also called a cycle selector, the timer has a motor that advances the internal cams inside the timer body. The cams open and close electrical contacts to energize and de-energize components during the wash cycle. A control knob on the stem of the timer lets you select cycles on the timer. If the timer motor doesn-t advance or the contacts are defective in the timer, replace the timer.
If the motor doesn’t run, you can replace it in less than an hour.
If the washer tub bangs the cabinet during the spin cycle even though the load is balanced, you might need to replace the snubber ring in the base of the washer.
If the washer fills but won’t start the agitation cycle, the lid lock switch could be defective.
Step-by-step directions for entering the diagnostic test mode.
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