Laundry Center: Dryer won't heat
When the laundry center dryer isn't getting hot, the culprit could be the timer or electronic control board that controls the heat. If your laundry center has an electric dryer, a broken heating element, failed thermostat, bad motor switch or voltage supply problem also could prevent the dryer from heating. If you have a gas dryer, a bad gas supply, failed gas valve coils, a bad thermostat or failed motor switch also can prevent the gas burner from heating.
On a laundry center that uses an electronic control board to control dryer operations, the control board typically signals an error code when the control detects a component failure that prevents the dryer from heating. Refer to the error code chart to help you determine the cause of the error code and heating failure. The dryer should resume heating once you correct the problem that caused the error code.
If your dryer still won't heat after you've resolved the error code, check out our troubleshooting videos. If your laundry center has an electric dryer, watch our electric dryer won't heat troubleshooting video. If you have a gas dryer, watch our gas dryer won't heat troubleshooting video. The dryer in your laundry center may differ from the one shown in the videos, but the troubleshooting concepts likely will help you figure out why your dryer isn't heating. Replace any failed parts you find during the troubleshooting.
Replace the laundry center dryer timer
The timer controls the components in the dryer. Also called a cycle selector, the timer has a motor that advances the internal cams inside the timer body. The cams open and close electrical contacts to energize and de-energize components during the wash cycle. A control knob on the stem of the timer lets the user select cycles on the timer. If the timer motor doesn-t advance or the contacts are defective in the timer, replace the dryer timer.
Replace the laundry center dryer heating element
The dryer heating element generates the heat needed to dry clothes. If the dryer isn't heating, check the element for visible damage and replace the heating element if it's broken. Almost all electric heating elements require 240 volts to function correctly; if the heating element won't heat even though it's getting the 240-volt power, replace it even if it doesn't look broken.
If the motor doesn’t run, you can replace it in less than an hour.
If the washer tub bangs the cabinet during the spin cycle even though the load is balanced, you might need to replace the snubber ring in the base of the washer.
If the washer fills but won’t start the agitation cycle, the lid lock switch could be defective.
Step-by-step directions for entering the diagnostic test mode.
Learn how to repair broken, frayed or damaged wires in your appliances.
Learn how to use a multimeter to check for wiring problems in an appliance that's not working