May 31, 2016

Oven door won't open: troubleshooting door lock problems on a range video

By Sears PartsDirect staff
Troubleshooting door lock problems on a range if the door won't open.

This video from Sears Direct will help you troubleshoot problems when your oven door locks and you can't get it open. Learn how to get it unlocked as well as how to replace the oven door lock motor if it needs to be replaced.

Plus, check out our repair help page the next time you have a DIY repair project with your gas or electric range.

Lock stuck after self-cleaning cycle

Hi, this is Wayne from Sears PartsDirect. Today we’re going to talk about an oven with a malfunctioning door lock. You’re probably watching this because your oven door is stuck shut. Let me guess, did you just run a self-cleaning cycle?

During the cleaning cycle, your door will lock for safety purposes. Under normal circumstances, the door won't unlock until the oven has cooled to room temperature. The thing is, if you lose or disconnect power before the cycle is finished, the lock motor may not complete the cycle to unlock the door. We’ll show you how to reset the lock and get things working again.

Get the door open

But, the lock motor itself could be broken. So we’ll also show you how to test that out while you’re back there. Now that it's stuck shut, let me show you how you can get it open fast and get back to cooking.

Pull the range out from the wall and disconnect the power. Remove the back panel to gain access to the lock motor assembly. Remove the screws holding the door lock assembly in place. Release the door-latching rod by pulling the lock motor assembly down and tilt the front inwards. This will allow you to unhook the locking rod from the drive cam.

Push the rod forward and open the oven door. Note the position of the drive cam and the hole that the locking rod fits into. Remove the Philips screw holding the drive cam on the motor. Remove the drive cam and rotate it 180 degrees from where it was when the door was locked.

Line up the two slots on the bottom of the drive cam with the posts on the motor shaft. Push the drive cam down and lock it on the motor shaft. Make sure that the switch arm aligns with the side edge of the drive cam. Reinstall the Phillips screw on the cam.

Re-hook the locking rod back onto the drive cam. Install the motor bracket assembly back onto the range. Now, you can put everything back together, and at least be able to cook again.

Test the door lock

But if you’ve got a bad door lock, your door is going to get stuck again the next time you run a cleaning cycle. We’ll check the lock motor circuit for electrical continuity with a multimeter while we’ve got this back panel off. Always disconnect power before checking continuity. Locate the two electrical wires going to the lock motor and disconnect them.

Set your meter to read ohms of resistance on the 20,000 ohms scale. Place one meter lead on each terminal of the lock motor. If you measure no continuity, on this meter that’s a “1” on the far left corner, then the door lock is bad and will need to be replaced. Here's a video that will show you how to do that.

Fix broken wires

If the lock motor reads about 2000 ohms on the multi-meter, then the motor is good. Let’s see if there’s a break in wire harness next. Plug the wires back into the lock motor. Remove the upper back panel.

Locate the two wires from the motor that are connected to the electronic control board (that's the brown and white wires on this model). Disconnect the wires from the electronic control board and put one meter lead on each wire. If your meter shows no continuity then you will need to repair the broken wire in the harness. Here's a video about repairing broken wiring.

Check the electronic control board

If you get a reading of about 2000 ohms, then both the harness and door lock are ok. That tells you that the electronic control board is failing to send current to the lock motor. You’ll need to replace the control board. Here’s a video showing you how.

Hey, thanks for watching. I hope that this video helped you out today. Be sure to check out our other videos, here on the YouTube Channel, and don't forget to subscribe.

Symptoms common to all ranges

Choose a symptom to see related range repairs.

Main causes: bad bake element, broken burner igniter, control system failure, blown thermal fuse, faulty temperature sensor, wiring failure
Main causes: broken broiler element, weak or broken boil burner igniter, control system failure, faulty temperature sensor, wiring failure
Main causes: power supply failure, blown thermal fuse, bad relay control board, damaged terminal block, wiring failure
Main causes: broken oven door lock assembly, wiring failure, electronic control board problem
Main causes: food splatters, spilling food on the oven door, allowing liquid to drip through oven door vent when cleaning the door
Main causes: power supply problem, control thermostat or electronic control board failure, broken element, bad burner igniter
Main causes: faulty temperature sensor, electronic control board problem, control thermostat failure, weak burner igniter, oven door problem
Repair guides common to all ranges

These step-by-step repair guides will help you safely fix what’s broken on your range.

July 20, 2018
By Lyle Weischwill
How to replace a range oven door switch

The oven door switch detects whether the oven door is closed and helps control the oven light. Replace the switch if it doesn’t control the oven light properly.

Repair difficulty
Time required
 30 minutes or less
February 20, 2015
By Lyle Weischwill
How to replace a range oven door lock assembly

Oven door not locking? You can replace the lock assembly in less than 30 minutes. Here's how.

Repair difficulty
Time required
 30 minutes or less
Articles and videos common to all ranges

Use the advice and tips in these articles and videos to get the most out of your range.

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