Whirlpool  Washer  Error Codes Cabrio Top-Load Models

These error code explanations can help you diagnose a problem with your Whirlpool Cabrio belt-drive top-load washer. For repair how-to help, visit the PartsDirect repair help section, which includes repair help for washing machines, other major appliances, lawn and garden equipment, garage door openers, vacuum cleaners and more. You can also search for owner’s manuals and find washing machine replacement parts.

On models without a digital display, the fault code is signaled by blinking status lights. Refer to the tech sheet to decipher the error code. 

Check out our washer error code charts for information on a different Whirlpool model or another brand of washer.

4-Character Error Codes for Belt-Drive Cabrio Washers
Error Code Condition Check/Repair Shop Parts
Lid Lock LED flashing Indicates the control recorded one of the error codes shown below Refer to the tech sheet (stored in the console) to enter the diagnostic test mode and recover the saved error code.
F0 E2 Excessive suds Use only HE (High Efficiency) detergent. Reduce the quantity of detergent to prevent excessive suds.
HE detergent
F0 E4 High water temperature in the rinse cycle Make sure that fill hoses are properly connected. Check the resistance of the thermistor (temperature sensor). It should measure about 50,000 ohms at 77 degrees. If the thermistor is defective, replace it.
Thermistor
F0 E5 Unbalanced load Re-distribute the load inside the spin basket. If that doesn’t help, then check the suspension rods and springs. If a suspension rod and spring is broken or damaged, replace all of the suspension rods and springs (the replacement part is a kit that has all 4 rods/springs).
Suspension rods/springs
F1 E1 Main electronic control board failure Unplug the washer. Check the wiring connections on the main electronic control board in the console. If the wiring connections are sound, replace the the main electronic control.
Main electronic control board
F1 E2 Motor control error on main electronic control board failure Unplug the washer. Check the wiring connections on the main electronic control board and the drive motor. If the wiring connections are sound, check the drive motor windings for resistance. If the drive motor is bad, replace it. If the drive motor is sound, replace the main electronic control board.
Drive motor, Main electronic control board
F2 E1 Stuck key This code is for models with a digital display. One or more keys on the user interface were actuated for 15 seconds or longer. If a key is stuck and cannot be freed up then the user interface control will need to be replaced.
User interface control
F2 E3 Mismatch of main electronic control board and user lnterface control This code is for models with a digital display. It typically occurs when an incompatible control component (Main Electronic Control board or User Interface control) is replaced in the console. Check the replacement part numbers and reorder the correct part.
Main electronic control board, User interface control
F3 E1 Water level pressure sensor fault Unplug the washer. Check the air hose connection between the bottom of the tub and the water level pressure switch in the console. Check the wiring connections between the water level pressure sensor and the main electronic control board. If no problems are found, then the water level pressure switch will normally need to be replaced.
Water level pressure switch
F3 E2 Inlet water temperature fault Unplug the washer. Open the console and check the resistance through the thermistor circuit (black wires). It should measure around 50K ohms (50,000 ohms) at room temperature. If the thermistor is defective, replace it (the thermistor is a component in the inlet valve assembly wiring harness).
Inlet water valve wiring harness (this harness includes the thermistor)
F5 E1 Lid switch fault This code is displayed if Start is pressed with the lid open. If the lid switch on the lid lock/switch assembly isn’t detecting the condition of the washer lid properly, then the lid lock/switch assembly will need to be replaced.
Lid lock/switch assembly
F5 E2 Lid lock fault Unplug the washer. Check the lid lock/switch assembly for debris or an item that is interfering with the lock strike being engaged by the lid lock mechanism. If no interference is apparent, then the lid lock/switch assembly will typically need to be replaced.
Lid lock/switch assembly
F5 E3 Lid unlock fault Unplug the washer. Lift the top panel of the washer to access the lid lock/switch assembly. Try to manually unlock the washer lid without breaking the lid lock/switch assembly and the lock strike. If the components are damaged, replace them. If the lid lock/switch assembly won't lock and unlock properly, replace it.
Lid lock/switch assembly, Lock strike
F5 E4 Lid not opened between cycles If the washer is started several times without the lid ever being opened, then this code appears. If the lid is actually being opened between cycles but the control doesn't detect it, then the door lock/switch assembly will usually need to be replaced.
Lid lock/switch assembly
F7 E1 Basket speed sensor fault See if the spin basket rotates freely. If not, then examine and replace any defective drive components. If the basket spins properly, unplug the washer and check the wiring connections on the actuator. That component has the optical tachometer. If the wiring connections are okay, then that actuator will usually need to be replaced.
Drive system components, actuator
F7 E5 Shifter actuator fault The main electronic control board cannot determine the position of the drive system shifter. Unplug the washer and check the wiring harness connections on the main electronic control board and the shifter actuator. If the wiring connections are okay, then the actuator will usually need to be replaced.
Actuator
F7 E6 Motor fault Unplug the washer and check the wiring connections on the drive motor. If the wiring connections are okay, then the drive motor will typically need to be replaced.
Drive motor
F7 E7 Motor is unable to reach target RPM Rotate the spin basket to see if it spins freely. If not, then a garment could be stuck between the outer tub and the spin basket. A problem with drive components could also cause excess friction. Inspect the drive components and replace parts as needed.
Drive system components
F8 E1 Not filling or long fill time Water isn’t being detected as entering the washer. If the washer isn’t filling, check the water supply faucets behind the washer to make sure that they are fully open. Check the fill hoses and inlet water valves. If the inlet water valve assembly is defective, replace it. If water is entering the machine but not being detected, then the water level pressure switch will usually need to be replaced.
Inlet water valve assembly, Water level pressure switch
F8 E3 Overflow condition If the washer is overfilling, check the inlet water valves. If the valves are not shutting off water flow, then replace the inlet water valve assembly. If the washer isn’t actually overflowing, then the water level pressure switch will usually need to be replaced.
Inlet water valve assembly, Water level pressure switch
F8 E5 Hot & cold fill hoses are reversed Check the fill hoses. If they are connected properly then the inlet water thermistor (temperature sensor) will probably need to be replaced. That component is part of the Inlet Water Valve Wire Harness.
Inlet water valve wire harness
F9 E1 Long drain time The washer isn't draining after the drain pump runs for 10 minutes. Check the washer drain and the drain hose for clogs or restrictions. If the drain path is clear, unplug the washer and check the drain pump. If the drain pump is defective, replace it.
Drain pump
Wash LED on No fill or long fill Water isn’t being detected as entering the washer. If the washer isn’t filling, check the water supply faucets behind the washer to make sure that they are fully open. Check the fill hoses and inlet water valves. If the inlet water valve assembly is defective, replace it. If water is entering the machine but not being detected, then the water level pressure switch will usually need to be replaced.
Inlet water valve assembly, Water level pressure switch
Spin LED on Long drain time The washer did not drain after the drain pump has been running for 10 minutes. Check the washer drain and the drain hose for clogs or restrictions. If the drain path is clear, unplug the washer and check the drain pump. If the drain pump is defective, replace it.
Drain pump
3-Character Error Codes for Direct-Drive Cabrio Washers
Error Code Condition Check/Repair Shop Parts
LF or F30 Long fill If water isn’t entering the washer, make sure that the water supply faucets are fully open. Check the fill hoses for kinks or freezing (in the winter). Check the inlet water valve screens for debris or deposits. Replace the inlet water supply valve assembly if the screens are clogged. If water is entering the tub but not being detected properly, check the air hose between the bottom of the tub and the connection on the main electronic control board. If the air hose connection is secure, replace the main electronic control board (the water level sensor is a component of the main electronic control board).
Inlet water valve assembly, Main electronic control board
Ld or F32 Long drain time This code is displayed when the water level does not change after the drain pump runs. If the washer does not drain, check the drain hose and washer drain for a clog or restriction. Unplug the washer and check the drain pump for a clog. If the drain pump is defective, replace it. If the washer is draining properly and the drop in water level isn’t being detected, then the main electronic control board will need to be replaced.
Drain pump, Main electronic control board
uL Unbalanced load This code is steady on when an unbalanced load is detected and the washer runs a mini-cycle routine to balance the load. If the load cannot be balanced by that routine, then uL will flash and the door will unlock. You can redistribute the load and start the washer. If the tub bangs violently even with a balanced load then you may have a damaged suspension rod/spring assembly. Replace the suspension rods/springs in that situation.
Suspension Rods/Springs (replacement part has a set of 4 rods/springs -- replace all of them at once)
oL or F70 Overloaded The size of the load exceeds the washers capacity. Open the lid and remove some garments. Restart the cycle.
Sd or F71 Excessive suds Sd is displayed steady on when excessive suds is detected. The washer conducts a routine to eliminate the excessive suds. If the suds cannot be eliminated, then the Sd flashes in the display. Let the suds dissipate and then drain the washer. Use only the appropriate quantity of HE (High Efficiency) detergent in the washer.
HE detergent
lid or F81 Lid not closed or lid not opened between cycles This code appears if you press start with the lid open. It will also appear is you press Start after 2 consecutive cycles without opening the lid. If the lid lock/switch assembly isn’t properly detecting the position of the washer lid (open/closed), then replace it.
Lid lock/switch assembly
HC Hot and cold fill hoses are reversed Check the positions of the fill hoses on the back of the washer. If they are reversed, then connect them properly.
dL (F80, F82, F84 or F85) Lid lock failure Check for debris in the lid lock mechanism that could prevent it from locking. Unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections for the lid lock/switch on the main electronic control board. Examine the lid lock/switch assembly. If it’s damaged or defective, replace it.
Lid lock/switch assembly
dU or F83 Lid unlock failure Unplug the washer. Check the wire harness connections for the lid lock/switch assembly on the main electronic control board. If the connections are okay, then you will typically need to force the lid open. This will usually break the lid lock/switch assembly. Replace the lid lock/switch assembly if it’s damaged or broken.
Lid lock/switch assembly
F01 Main electronic control board failure The main electronic control board is also called the machine control board. The F1 code indicates that the control board is defective. Try to reset the control board by unplugging the washer for 5 minutes. Plug it back in. This will sometimes fix the problem. If the F1 code returns after restoring power to the washer, replace the main electronic control board.
Main electronic control board
F02 User interface failure Unplug the washer. Open the console and check the wire harness connection between the main electronic control board and the user interface control board. If the wire harness connection is okay, then the user interface control board will need to be replaced.
User interface control board
F40 Water temperature thermistor failure The inlet water temperature thermistor (temperature sensor) is integrated into the inlet water valve assembly. Unplug the washer and check the wire harness connection between the main electronic control board and the thermistor on the inlet water valve assembly inside the console. If the wiring harness connection is okay, then the inlet water valve assembly will usually need to be replaced.
Inlet water valve assembly
F41 Motor RPS failure The motor RPS (Rotor Position Sensor) detects the speed of the drive motor. Unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections between the RPS and the main electronic control board. If the wire harness connections are okay, then the RPS will usually need to be replaced.
Motor RPS sensor
F50 Motor stalled The motor RPS (Rotor Position Sensor) detects no rotation of the drive motor. Unplug the washer. Check to see if the basket spins freely. If not, then examine the drive system and eliminate the cause of friction. If the basket spins freely, check the wire harness connections between the main electronic control board and the motor. If the wire harness connections are okay, check the drive motor. If the motor is defective, replace it.
Drive motor, wire harness
F51 Motor RPS failure The motor RPS (Rotor Position Sensor) detects the speed of the drive motor. Check to see if the basket spins freely. If not, then examine the drive system and eliminate the cause of friction. If the basket spins freely, unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections between the RPS and the main electronic control board. If the wire harness connections are okay, then the RPS will usually need to be replaced.
Motor RPS sensor
F52 Motor stop failure Drive motor failed to stop after the stop command from the main electronic control board. This is caused by a failure in the main electronic control board. The main electronic control board will usually need to be replaced to fix this failure.
Main electronic control
F53 Motor control over-temperature The motor control portion of the main electronic control board is overheating. This can be caused by a high current draw through the motor circuit due to excessive friction in the drive system. Check to see if the basket spins freely. If not, examine and repair the cause of the excessive friction. If the basket spins freely, then the drive motor and/or the main electronic control board may need to be replaced.
Drive motor, Main electronic control board
F54 Motor control overcurrent The motor control portion of the main electronic control board is drawing high current. This can be caused by excessive friction in the drive system. Check to see if the basket spins freely. If not, examine and repair the cause of the excessive friction. If the basket spins freely, then the drive motor and/or the main electronic control board may need to be replaced.
Drive motor, Main electronic control board
F72 Basket re-engagement failure The basket fails to engage the drive system for the spin mode. Check to see if the water drained out. If not, run the drain cycle routine to evacuate the water. If the basket still won't engage, check the drive system for an obstruction or failure.
Drive system components