Maytag  Washer  Error Codes for Bravos VMW Top-Load Models

These error code explanations can help you troubleshoot a problem with your Maytag Bravos VMW top-load washer.  For repair how-to help, visit the PartsDirect repair help section, which includes repair help for washing machines, other major appliances, lawn and garden equipment, garage door openers, vacuum cleaners and more. You can also search for owner’s manuals and find washing machine replacement parts.

On models without a digital display, the fault code is signaled by blinking status lights. Refer to this video to decipher the error code. 

Check out our washer error code charts for information on a different Maytag model or another brand of washer.

Error Code Condition Check/Repair Shop Parts
Lid Lock LED flashing Indicates the control recorded one of the error codes shown below Refer to the tech sheet (stored in the console) to enter the diagnostic test mode and recover the saved error code.
F0 E2 Excessive suds Use only HE (High Efficiency) detergent. Reduce the quantity of detergent to prevent excessive suds.
HE detergent
F0 E4 High water temperature in the rinse cycle Make sure that fill hoses are properly connected. Check the resistance of the thermistor (temperature sensor). It should measure around 50K ohms (50,000 ohms) at 77 degrees. If the thermistor is defective, replace it.
Thermistor
F0 E5 Unbalanced load Re-distribute the load inside the spin basket. If that doesn’t help, then check the suspension rods and springs. If a suspension rod and spring is broken or damaged, replace all of the suspension rods and springs (the replacement part is a kit that has all 4 rods/springs).
Suspension rods/springs
F1 E1 Main electronic control board failure Unplug the washer. Check the wiring connections on the main electronic control board in the console. If the wiring connections are okay, then the main electronic control board will usually need to be replaced.
See the repair guide to fix it yourself
Main electronic control board
F1 E2 Motor control error on main electronic control board failure Unplug the washer. Check the wiring connections on the main electronic control board and the drive motor. If the wiring connections are okay, then the drive motor windings will need to be checked for resistance. If the drive motor is bad, replace it. If the drive motor is okay, the main electronic control board will usually need to be replaced.
See the repair guide to fix it yourself
Drive motor, Main electronic control board
F2 E1 Stuck key This code is for models with a digital display. One or more keys on the user interface were actuated for 15 seconds or longer. If a key is stuck and cannot be freed up then the user interface control will need to be replaced.
User interface control
F2 E3 Mismatch of main electronic control board and user lnterface control This code is for models with a digital display. It typically occurs when an incompatible control component (Main Electronic Control board or User Interface control) is replaced in the console. Check the replacement part numbers and reorder the correct part.
See the repair guide to fix it yourself
Main electronic control board, User interface control
F3 E1 Water level pressure sensor fault Unplug the washer. Check the air hose connection between the bottom of the tub and the water level pressure switch in the console. Check the wiring connections between the water level pressure sensor and the main electronic control board. If no problems are found, then the water level pressure switch will usually need to be replaced.
See the repair guide to fix it yourself
Water level pressure switch
F3 E2 Inlet water temperature fault Unplug the washer. Open the console and check the resistance through the thermistor circuit (black wires). It should measure around 50K ohms (50,000 ohms) at room temperature. If the thermistor is defective, replace it (the thermistor is a component in the inlet valve assembly wiring harness).
See the repair guide to fix it yourself
Inlet water valve wiring harness (this harness includes the thermistor)
F5 E1 Lid switch fault This code is displayed if Start is pressed with the lid open. If the lid switch on the lid lock/switch assembly isn’t detecting the condition of the washer lid properly, then the lid lock/switch assembly will need to be replaced.
See the repair guide to fix it yourself
Lid lock/switch assembly
F5 E2 Lid lock fault Unplug the washer. Check the lid lock/switch assembly for debris or an item that is interfering with the lock strike being engaged by the lid lock mechanism. If no interference is apparent, then the lid lock/switch assembly will usually need to be replaced.
See the repair guide to fix it yourself
Lid lock/switch assembly
F5 E3 Lid unlock fault Unplug the washer. Lift the top panel of the washer to access the lid lock/switch assembly. Try to manually unlock the washer lid without breaking the lid lock/switch assembly and the lock strike. If the components are damaged, replace them. If the lid lock/switch assembly won't lock and unlock properly, replace it.
See the repair guide to fix it yourself
Lid lock/switch assembly, Lock strike
F5 E4 Lid not opened between cycles If the washer is started several times without the lid ever being opened, then this code appears. If the lid is actually being opened between cycles but the control doesn't detect it, then the door lock/switch assembly will typically need to be replaced.
See the repair guide to fix it yourself
Lid lock/switch assembly
F7 E1 Basket speed sensor fault See if the spin basket rotates freely. If not, then examine and replace any defective drive components. If the basket spins properly, unplug the washer and check the wiring connections on the actuator. That component has the optical tachometer. If the wiring connections are okay, then that actuator will usually need to be replaced.
Drive system components, actuator
F7 E5 Shifter actuator fault The main electronic control board cannot determine the position of the drive system shifter. Unplug the washer and check the wiring harness connections on the main electronic control board and the shifter actuator. If the wiring connections are okay, then the actuator will usually need to be replaced.
See the repair guide to fix it yourself
Actuator
F7 E6 Motor fault Unplug the washer and check the wiring connections on the drive motor. If the wiring connections are okay, then the drive motor will typically need to be replaced.
See the repair guide to fix it yourself
Drive motor
F7 E7 Motor is unable to reach target RPM Rotate the spin basket to see if it spins freely. If not, then a garment could be stuck between the outer tub and the spin basket. A problem with drive components could also cause excess friction. Inspect the drive components and replace parts as needed.
See the repair guide to fix it yourself
Drive system components
F8 E1 Not filling or long fill time Water isn’t being detected as entering the washer. If the washer isn’t filling, check the water supply faucets behind the washer to make sure that they are fully open. Check the fill hoses and inlet water valves. If the inlet water valve assembly is defective, replace it. If water is entering the machine but not being detected, then the water level pressure switch will usually need to be replaced.
See the repair guide to fix it yourself
Inlet water valve assembly, Water level pressure switch
F8 E3 Overflow condition If the washer is overfilling, check the inlet water valves. If the valves are not shutting off water flow, then replace the inlet water valve assembly. If the washer isn’t actually overflowing, then the water level pressure switch will typcially need to be replaced.
See the repair guide to fix it yourself
Inlet water valve assembly, Water level pressure switch
F8 E5 Hot & cold fill hoses are reversed Check the fill hoses. If they are connected properly then the inlet water thermistor (temperature sensor) will probably need to be replaced. That component is part of the Inlet Water Valve Wire Harness.
Inlet water valve wire harness
F9 E1 Long drain time The washer isn't draining after the drain pump runs for 10 minutes. Check the washer drain and the drain hose for clogs or restrictions. If the drain path is clear, unplug the washer and check the drain pump. If the drain pump is defective, replace it.
See the repair guide to fix it yourself
Drain pump
Wash LED on No fill or long fill Water isn’t being detected as entering the washer. If the washer isn’t filling, check the water supply faucets behind the washer to make sure that they are fully open. Check the fill hoses and inlet water valves. If the inlet water valve assembly is defective, replace it. If water is entering the machine but not being detected, then the water level pressure switch will usually need to be replaced.
See the repair guide to fix it yourself
Inlet water valve assembly, Water level pressure switch
Spin LED on Long drain time The washer did not drain after the drain pump has been running for 10 minutes. Check the washer drain and the drain hose for clogs or restrictions. If the drain path is clear, unplug the washer and check the drain pump. If the drain pump is defective, replace it.
See the repair guide to fix it yourself
Drain pump