Model #LTE6234DT2 Whirlpool laundry centers/combos

  • Washer/dryer Control Panel
    3 Results
  • Dryer Front Panel And Door
    3 Results
  • Dryer Cabinet And Motor
    3 Results
  • Dryer Bulkhead
    3 Results
  • Dryer Support And Washer Harness
    3 Results
  • Washer Top And Lid
    3 Results
  • Washer Cabinet
    3 Results
  • Machine Base
    3 Results
  • Agitator, Basket And Tub
    3 Results
  • Brake/clutch/gearcase/motor/pump
    3 Results
  • Washer Water System
    3 Results
  • Miscellaneous
    3 Results

Question and Answers

Q:

Whirlpool Dryer doesn't heat.

A:

Make sure that the washer works. This will check the L2 leg of power that is needed for the dryer element to heat. If the washer is dead and will not start, I recommend that you check the house circuit breakers or fuses for the laundry center. The video that Barbara H. provided in the above response shows more information about this issue. If the house circuit breakers or fuses are okay but the washer won't work, I recommend that you check the electrical supply outlet for the laundry center using a volt/ohm meter. The first image below shows the voltage that you should measure at the outlet. NOTE: You should only check this live outlet voltage if you are completely confident in your technical ability to safely measure it. Skip this step if necessary.

If the washer works, then you should not have a problem with the voltage supply to the dryer. The washer works off of the L2 leg of 240 volt power as shown in the wiring diagram that I provided in the second image. The L2 leg of voltage is traced in green and the L1 leg is traced in red. If the washer works, you could have a blown thermal fuse or a bad heating element in the dryer. I recommend that you check the thermal fuse first. Unplug the dryer to disconnect electrical power. The third image shows how to remove the dryer toe panel. You will also need to remove the lint screen and the lint duct assembly to access the thermal fuse (also called the thermal limiter) on the blower housing. The thermal fuse should have black and red/white wires attached to it (see wiring diagram below). You can check the thermal fuse by using the procedure shown in this Repair Clinic.com video: Thermal Fuse Testing . If the thermal fuse is blown, it will need to be replaced. You can order that fuse from the Sears PartsDirect website. The part number is 3403607.

If the thermal fuse was blown, be sure that you check the dryer exhaust vent duct system as shown in the Repair Clinic.com video.

If the thermal fuse is okay, I recommend that you check the heating element. The 4th image shows how to access that component. The heating element should measure between 8 and 20 ohms of resistance. If it is "open", then it will need to be replaced.

If both of these components are okay, you could have a blown thermal cut-off fuse (on the side of the heater box). You could also have a bad operating thermostat, open high limit thermostat, bad timer or a wiring failure in the circuit.

These tips should help you determine the cause of your heating failure in the dryer. If you need more assistance, reply with additional details.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

Read More
Lyle W -
Sears Technician
February 28, 2011
A:

Here is the 4th image.

Read More
Lyle W -
Sears Technician
February 28, 2011
See more answers