Model #GR-SXM755US JVC compact vhs-c camcorder

Here is a direct link for the installation guide on that microwave: Installation Instructions for GE Microwave Model JVM1850SM4SS . The installation guide shows how to adjust that fan to recirc the air back into the kitchen.

That clip on the vent grill that you are describing appears to be part of the vent grille assembly (part WB07X11019 or part WB07X11175 for the entire vent assembly). Those are expensive parts. Here is a link for the vent grille: Grille Part WB07X11019 for GE Microwave Model JVM1850SM4SS . Here is a link for the entire vent assembly: Grille Assembly Part WB07X11175 for GE Microwave Model JVM1850SM4SS . Replacing that component will cost more than $100 unless you can find a used part through a websearch. There is chance that you can repair the broken clip using super glue depending on the nature of the break.

I hope that this information helps. If you need more assistance, let us know.

NOTE: Adjusting the fan according to the guidelines in the installation instructions and fixing that clip on the vent grille should not expose you to any shielding issues or high voltage. Any repair of internal components would be dangerous as described by Marc H. in the above response. I do not recommend that you remove the cabinet or access any internal components beyond what is described in the installation guide and owner's manual.

Thanks Chris. I understand your concern about the cost of those GE replacement parts. Hopefully you can repair that clip instead of replacing that component. That should not affect the performance of the microwave. I am glad that you understand the purpose of the safety disclaimer. Let us know if you ever need more help. You will normally receive an initial response that will often help you with the problem that you are describing. That initial response is normally followed by a more detailed reply from a technician (hopefully within 24 to 48 hours). Sometimes it takes us a little longer to respond with detailed technical advice.

The thermal fuse on that range should be in the wire harness. It may look like the 20 amp fuse in one of the images below. The first image shows one type of thermal fuse and has the wiring diagram below it. That fuse will be in the wire that runs from the terminal block to the clock control board in the console. The fuse may look like the one shown in the second image. It will be in that same wire that is shown on the wiring diagram. You can unplug the range and remove the back panel on the range to locate that fuse. If it is blown, the section of the wire harness that contains that fuse will need to be replaced. If you need to order the red wire shown in the second image, that is part 9751369. You can order that part from the Sears PartsDirect website. You may need ceramic wire nuts to splice that fuse into the wire harness. If you need the other fuse, that is part number 9781691. Be sure that you unplug the range before accessing internal components and replacing that fuse. (Either one of those fuses should work for this range.) NOTE: Check the heating elements and wiring for damage or a short to the metal cabinet before replacing that fuse (with the electrical power still disconnected). If you replace that fuse and still have a short in the oven circuit, that fuse will blow again right away. A problem with that control board could also cause that fuse to blow.

These tips may help you resolve this oven problem. If you need more help, reply with additional details.

If you get to a point where you need a service technician, you can schedule one through this link: Sears Home Services .

Once you remove that side panel, you should see 2 screws holding the element in place and one more screw to the right at the rear that secures that plate that hides the element. Those are the screws that need to be removed so that you can pull that element out. I am not sure which screw that you are referring to that is giving you the trouble. That parts list diagram is somewhat confusing compared to the actual configuration of the element and the fasteners. Try removing the 3 screws that I described above and then see if you can carefully pull that element out. NOTE: You should have the range unplugged when performing this repair. You can check that element for continuity using a volt ohm meter before pulling it all of the way out. Here is a link for a video that shows how to test that element with a volt/ohm meter: Bake and Broil Element Testing . I mention this test because it could prevent you from replacing the element if it is actually still okay.

I hope that this additional information helps. If you need more assistance, reply with additional details and a digital picture of the problem that you are having with the removal of that element.

If you get to the point where you need to have a service technician replace that element, you can schedule service through this link: Sears Home Services .