Model #73-3757-00-09 Tappan ranges, electric

  • Cover Page
    3 Results
  • Control Panel
    3 Results
  • Splasher Control
    3 Results
  • Cooktop Parts
    3 Results
  • Upper Oven Door Parts
    3 Results
  • Lower Oven Door Parts
    3 Results
  • Broiler Parts
    3 Results
  • Upper Body Parts
    3 Results
  • Lower Body Parts
    3 Results
  • Drawer Parts
    3 Results

Question and Answers

Q:

Why does my Kenmore dehumidifier stop working after it shuts off in comfort mode?

A:

In the comfort mode, the unit will work automatically to maintain a humidity level based on the ambient temperature that is being sensed at the unit. You did not indicate what temperature that you actually measured in the room. The temperature measured by the dehumidifier may be a few degrees off. If it is more than 10 degrees off then this would be unusual. Before deciding whether something is wrong, I recommend that you accurately measure the temperature in the vicinity of the dehumidifier with a good thermometer. Since the dehumidifier has an evaporator coil inside, it will normally cool the air in the immediate vicinity of the unit.

Try using other manual settings on the dehumidifier. See if it will operate properly. If it does, then there may be nothing wrong with it.

The dehumidifier has a self diagnostic feature. It will normally display an error code if it detects a component problem.

The remote display works off of RF (Radio Frequency) transmission. You could have RF interference that is preventing the remove from always receiving the signal from the dehumidifier even if it is in close proximity. This could be normal. If it connects most of the time then it is likely okay.

When you turn the unit off and back on, it could affect the temperature being sensed by the thermistor (temperature sensor). It may also affect the humidity being sensed. This could be normal.

I don’t have enough details to help you determine whether the dehumidifier is malfunctioning.

If the unit will not work in other modes, then it could have a problem. If you are certain that it is malfunctioning then it may need service. If it is still under warranty, follow the directions for warranty service in your owner's manual.

If you need more help, resubmit your question with additional details.

Read More
Lyle W -
Sears Technician
September 18, 2009
Q:

Kenmore Elite Oasis Mdl 28062 purchased 09/08/09

A:

Check the space underneath the washer for any foreign objects that could be in that area. This washer does not have a bottom panel or base. An object underneath the washer could be making the clicking sound.

The motor and rotor are not common failures on this type of washer. You will normally see error codes in the display and the washer will stop when those components are bad. You could have a problem with that outer tub bearing that is causing the clicking noise. With the washer powered off and empty, spin the basket inside the washer and see if it makes a clicking noise when it is rotating. Since you found no items between the basket and the outer tub, your likely problem is in the tub bearing if you hear a noise. You can check the motor by unplugging the washer and disconnecting the water supply hoses. Carefully lay the washer on its back to access the motor. The image below shows how to remove the drive motor. If you are comfortable with removing the motor, you can check that area for problems. With the motor removed, you can spin the basket to see if you still hear the ticking. If you do, then this would confirm your bearing failure unless you can find an item stuck between the basket and the outer tub that is causing this noise.

I checked your owner's manual and found that the outer tub and the spin basket are covered by a 10 year limited parts warranty. You can view the details of that warranty in your owner's manual. Here is a link for that manual in case you need it: Owner's Manual . If that bearing is bad, you would need to pay for the labor of the technician to diagnose and replace the outer plastic tub but you would not have to pay for the part. The labor would probably be around $180. Here is a link for the Sears Service website if you need to schedule service for that type of failure: Sears Home Services .

I hope that this information helps. If you need more assistance, reply with additional details and we will try to assist you further.

Read More
Lyle W -
Sears Technician
April 28, 2011
A:

NOTE: Regarding the outer tub, there have been some improvements made in the service procedure for that outer tub bearing since this answer was posted. The outer tub bearing is now available as a separate component. It can be replaced using special tools that the Sears Service technicians now have been issued. The outer tub that is under a limited parts warranty no longer needs to be replaced when that bearing goes bad in many situations. That bearing kit costs around $80. The labor for the technician would cost around $140 (at this time). That labor would have been charged for the replacement of the outer tub even when the part was covered. This repair may wind up costing about $80 more than it would have when that previous answer was written. If the technician examines that outer tub and the entire tub needs to be replaced instead of just the bearing, then the tub would still be covered by the limited parts warranty. You would still need to pay for the labor of diagnosis and replacement (about $140 at this time). The technician is required to examine the tub and determine the parts that are needed and whether they are covered by the warranty. To repair that likely bearing failure, I recommend that you schedule service by a Sears Technician. You can call 1-800-469-4663 or click on the link that I provided below this response to schedule service.

Read More
Lyle W -
Sears Technician
January 16, 2012
See more answers
Q:

we have an 09 Kenmore Elite model # 790974728042

A:

Thank you for your question and I understand your concern.

Based on your symptom and details it sounds like when the wires crossed and shorted it likely tripped the house circuit breakers dedicated for the range. If you have the power supply connected properly, locate the two house circuit breakers dedicated for the range and reset both circuit breakers. Flip both circuit breakers to the OFF position and then to the ON position 2-3 times and then see if the clock/oven control will power up. If it does not power up; the voltage supply will need to be measured and verified where it connects to the back of the range. The voltage should measure 220-240 volts when measuring across the two outside terminals at the terminal block. The voltage must also me measured across the center terminal to one of the outside terminals and then from the center terminal to the other outside terminal and it must measure 110-120 volts. NOTE: I do not recommend making voltage measurements unless you have experience and feel safe and confident in doing so; otherwise I strongly suggest calling a service technician to diagnose and repair your range.

I added a link to the Installation Instructions in order to check the power supply connections in case you do not have it.

If the voltage measurements are correct and you have the range connected properly, the electronic oven/clock assembly has likely failed.

I hope this is helpful. If I may be of further assistance as more details become available, please reply to this post.

Read More
Joey S -
Sears Technician
June 08, 2012