Model #569 TROYBILT walk behind lawnmower, gas

Hi Scott,

Thank you for submitting a question to Manage My Life.

I am sorry you are having problems with your dryer.

I recommend running the diagnostics on your dryer. I have included this information in an image below. This image also contains information for checking the thermostats and thermistors. You will need to remove the toe panel to check the high limit thermostat, thermal fuse, and thermal cutoff. Always unplug or de-energize electrical equipment before removing covers or attempting service. Be careful and wear appropriate hand protection when working around sharp metal parts.

I am also including a wiring diagram below.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

Here is a link that you may use for parts purchases or to view your parts list diagram Sears Parts Direct .

Please perform the diagnostic tests detailed here and report back with your findings. I am looking forward to assisting you again in the near future.

Thanks again for using Manage My Life.

Landell

Hi Scott, You are welcome! The control is part number W10141671 CONTROL BOARD. Parts 21 & 22 are the user interfaces. The F01 does indicate a control board malfunction, and the tech sheet does not afford us any other ways to check the control. However, there is one way to check to make sure the valves and the remainder of the heat circuit is ok. To do this you need to: 1. UNPLUG the dryer and gain access to the control board. I have included an image below with the disassembly instructions. 2. Locate the black and red wires at the heater relay. 3. Remove the black and red wires and tape them together with electrical tape making sure the metal is completely covered and will not touch anything. 4. Plug the dryer back in and start a heat cycle. If the dryer heats you have a failed control board. If the dryer does not heat you will need to test the thermostat, thermal cutoff, and thermal fuse. If those are good you have an issue with the gas valves, ignitor, or flame sensor. Do not leave the heater relay on the control board BYPASSED; this is for testing purposes only. Please perform the diagnostic tests detailed here and report back with your findings. I am looking forward to assisting you again in the near future. Thanks again for using Manage My Life. Landell

I recommend that you conduct the air flow test that is shown in the diagnostic test information above. If the LESS DRY led is let during that test, then a restriction in the exhaust air flow is probably causing this problem. Clean the lint screen with water and a soft bristle brush to remove any fabric softener residue that may be on that component. Check the flexible air vent behind the dryer for a clog or kink. Check the exhaust air duct system to the outside of your home for a restriction. Make sure that the damper on the exit of the vent to the outside of your home is opening properly. If you have a restricted air flow through the dryer, the time will appear to stall as you are describing. The moisture sensor should be okay since you not see error codes in that diagnostic test mode that indicates that component is shorted. Drying a mixed load may also cause the dryer to appear to stall as you describe. Try drying a load in the Timed mode to see if the control and components will work properly. If it does, then one of the above issues is probably causing the time to stall as you are describing. I hope that this additional information helps. If you need more assistance, reply with additional details.

If the dryer cools down after heating once as you describe above and then the igniter glows and cycles off normally but the burner does not light, then your failure is probably in the gas valve coils. The theory of operation for that gas burner assembly is shown in the image below. We gas valve coils could be allowing the burner to light during the initial ignition process but the coils may not be strong enough to open the gas valves for subsequent ignition attempts after they are heated up. I recommend that you check to see if the igniter is glowing and then cycling off to light the burner after the dryer cools down following the initial burn. If it does, then you can probably fix this problem by replacing the gas valve coils. There is a kit that has both coils for about $20. The part number for that kit is 279834. You can order that kit from the Sears PartsDirect.com website (see link below). The second link shows a video of how to replace those coils. Your dryer is slightly different but the procedure is basically the same. UNPLUG the dryer and remove the screws at the very bottom of the bottom front service panel to remove it from the dryer. If you need more help, reply with additional details.

Hello James. When you enter that diagnostic mode, you will see that type of alpha-numeric code anytime the door is opened or closed. That is probably why you see that P39 in the test mode. You could have a failed heating element or a number of other problems that would prevent the dryer from heating. Reply with a full model number of your dryer and additional details if you need more help with this heating problem.