Model #11066914692 Kenmore residential dryer

  • Top And Console
    3 Results
  • Cabinet
    3 Results
  • Bulkhead
    3 Results

Error Codes

Error Code:

Condition:

Check/Repair:

Question and Answers

Q:

How do you replace the heating element on Kenmore 90 series model number 11066914692?

A:

First, I recommend that you check the house electrical breakers for the dryer outlet. The dryer will run if only one of the 120 volt legs of 240 volt power is supplied to the dryer. If the second 120 volt leg is missing, the dryer will not heat. If the breakers are okay, I recommend that your check the voltage at the outlet using the diagram in the first image below.

NOTE: You should only check this live voltage with a volt/ohm meter if you are completely confident in your technical ability to safely measure it. Always unplug or de-energize electrical equipment before removing covers or attempting service. Be careful and wear appropriate hand protection when working around sharp metal parts.

If the outlet voltage is okay, you could have a failed heating element, a blown thermal cut-off fuse, an open high limit thermostat, a failed operating thermostat, a bad timer, a failed motor centrifugal switch or a wiring failure between components in the heating circuit. The second image below shows the wiring diagram for your dryer. The L1 leg of the heating circuit is traced in red and the L2 leg is traced in green. I have also included the complete teardown instructions, use these to locate the components for testing (see images below).

I recommend that you unplug the dryer and check the heating element first. Remove the back panel to access this component. The third image shows the components in the back of the dryer. Remove one wire from the heater leads (with the dryer still unplugged) and measure the resistance across the leads of the element. You should measure between 7.8 and 11.8 ohms of resistance through this component. If the element is open (measures infinite resistance) then it is bad and will need to be replaced. If the heating element is okay, you can check the operating thermostat, the thermal cut-off fuse and the high limit thermostat in a similar manner (one wire removed, dryer still unplugged). These components should measure near zero ohms of resistance. If any component measures infinite resistance then it will need to be replaced. If the thermal cut-off fuse is blown, the high limit thermostat will need to be replaced at the same time since it should have opened to prevent the thermal cut-off fuse from blowing.

These tips may help you determine the cause of your dryer failure. If all of the above components are okay, you could have a failed timer, a bad motor centrifugal switch or a wiring failure in the heating circuit.

If you need more help, resubmit your question with additional details.

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Landell -
Sears Technician
February 23, 2010

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