Model #11066662500 Kenmore residential dryer

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Error Codes

Error Code:

Condition:

Check/Repair:

Question and Answers

Q:

Why does my Kenmore dryer model 11066662500 keep running @ the end of a cycle even though the clothes are dry and a new timer was installed?

A:

The wiring diagram and timer chart for your dryer are shown in the first image below. In the timed cycle, the timer switch 0 will switch from TM-WB over to TM-OR at the very end of the cycle. The timer uses TM-OR to advance the timer in all of the other cycles. If your timer does not advance in other cycles and is advancing to a point just before the stop position in the timed cycle, then this failure points to a problem with the connection of the orange (OR) wire from the heater element to the timer. I recommend unplugging the dryer and checking this wire. You may find it broken or disconnected at one end or the other.

If you need more help, resubmit your question with additional details.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
April 29, 2009
Q:

Kenmore electric dryer no heat good air flow cicuit breaker OK what's it need?

A:

Even though you checked the breaker, I recommend that you also check the dryer outlet for proper voltage using a volt/ohm meter. The diagram in the third image below shows the voltage that should be measured in a typical 240 volt plug. Your dryer plug will look different but the basic voltage measurement is the same. NOTE: You should only check this live outlet voltage if you are completely confident in your technical ability to safely measure it.

If the outlet is okay, then you could have a failed heating element or a number of other component problems. The wiring diagram for your dryer is shown in the first image below. The L1 side of the heating circuit is traced in red and the L2 side is traced in green. I recommend that you unplug the dryer and check the resistance of the heating element first. To access the heating element and other components in the heating circuit, remove the back panel (with the dryer unplugged). A diagram of the components is shown in the second image below. Your dryer will look slightly different than the one shown below but the components will basically be in the same place. Remove one wire from the heating element and measure the resistance across the leads of the element using a volt/ohm meter. You should measure between 7.8 and 11.8 ohms of resistance through this component. If the heating element measure Ol (Open Load or infinite resistance) then it is bad and will need to be replaced. If the element is okay, you can check the high limit thermostat, the thermal cut-off fuse and the operating thermostat in a similar manner. These components should measure near zero ohms of resistance. If the thermal cut-off fuse on the side of the heater box is blown then the high limit thermostat will need to be replaced at the same time that the fuse is replaced. The high limit thermostat should open to prevent the thermal cut-off fuse from blowing. You would also need to check for an exhaust vent duct restriction in this situation. If all of the above components are okay, you could have a failed timer (Switch 2), a bad motor centrifugal switch, or a wiring failure in the circuit.

If you need parts, you can order them from the Sears PartsDirect website.

These tips should help you determine the cause of your heating failure in the dryer. If you need more help, submit additional details.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
June 25, 2010
Q:

why did my dryer stop heating up?

A:

Thank you for your question and I understand your concern.

In order for the dryer to produce any heat the dryer must have a 220 voltage supply. If one of the two house circuit breakers dedicated for the dryer has tripped OFF the dryer will run but will not heat. Locate the two house circuit breakers dedicated for the dryer and reset both breakers by flipping them both OFF and ON 2-3 times and then restart the dryer and check for heat. If it continues to run and not heat then the voltage supply should be checked and confirmed before any further diagnostics are performed. NOTE: I do not recommend checking voltage unless you have experience and feel safe and confident in doing so, otherwise I recommend calling a service technician to diagnose and repair your dryer.

I added an image below with the heating circuit traced in red and I circled the key numbers of the components connected in series with the heat circuit. If any one of the components is faulty, the circuit will be broken to the heating element and the heating element will not work. The heating element must have 220 volts or it will not heat. The components with key numbers can be disconnected and tested for continuity with an ohm meter. Whichever component tests open/no continuity, replace that component. NOTE: Disconnect the power cord from the power source before removing the back panel (key#5).

If the dryer continues to run and not heat, the failure could be one of the following components:

  • Timer
  • Thermal cut off (key#1 is the most likely failure)
  • Operating thermostat (key#42)
  • Hi Limit thermostat (key#34)
  • Heating element (key#14)
  • Motor centrifugal switch (part of motor)
  • Burnt wire connection
  • Lack of proper voltage (It needs 220 volts)

Parts can be looked up and ordered from Sears PartsDirect

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
February 22, 2011