Model #11064742400 Kenmore residential dryer

  • Top And Console Parts
    3 Results
  • Cabinet Parts
    3 Results
  • Bulkhead Parts
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Error Codes

Error Code:

Condition:

Check/Repair:

Question and Answers

Q:

Is there any way to tell which is needed, element or thermostat for Kenmore Model 70 dryer? dryer does not heat up.

A:

Thank you for your question and I understand your concern. The heating element and thermostats can be tested with an OHM meter. There are other components that could fail and prevent the dryer from heating also.

I added an image below of the wiring diagram with the heater circuit high lighted in red and green. I have circled the component in red which can fail and prevent the dryer from heating.

You can test the following component from the rear or the dryer. Disconnect the power cord from the power source before removing the rear panel.

  • Thermal cut off (key#1)
  • Operating thermostat (key#42)
  • Hi Limit thermostat (key#34)
  • Heating element. (key#14)
  • Voltage supply (The dryer must have 220 volts supplied to it or the dryer will run but won't heat)

You will have to disconnect the wires from the component before checking across the two terminals with an ohm meter. Which ever component tests open/no continuity, replace that component.

The voltage supply should be checked and confirmed before proceeding to test the components I have listed above. NOTE: I do not recommend checking and confirming the voltage supply unless you have experience and feel safe and confident in doing so, otherwise I recommend calling a service technician to diagnose and repair your dryer.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
January 21, 2011
Q:

Have a Kenmore 70 series electric dryer. Model 11064742400. Not heating or shutting off. Have replace heating element and 2 thermostats (double pack).

A:

Thank you for your question and I understand your concern. In order for the heating element to heat and in order for the timer to advance, both must have 220 volts supplied to them. The dryer will run if it looses the line two (L2) voltage supply but it will not heat nor will the timer advance. Based on your symptom and details the dryer is not getting the proper voltage or the Motor centrifugal switch is not closing 2M to 1M in order to complete the L2 voltage to the heater and timer. The heating element and the timer both need 220-230 volts in order to heat and to advance the timer. I added an image below of the heater circuit and timer circuit so that you can see the L2 circuit to both.

The first thing that should be check and confirmed is the voltage supply where it connects to the back of the dryer. The voltage supply must measure 220-230 volts when measuring across the two outside terminals. If it does not measure 220-230 volts, check for a tripped circuit breaker dedicated for the dryer inside your house circuit breaker box. NOTE: I do not recommend checking voltage unless you have experience and feel safe and confident in doing so, otherwise I recommend calling a service technician to diagnose and repair your dryer.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
February 17, 2011
Q:

Why won't my dryer even after replacing the heating element?

A:

Make sure that you have 240 volts measured at the dryer outlet using the diagram in the first image below. NOTE: You should only check this live voltage at the outlet if you are completely confident in your technical ability to measure it using a volt/ohm meter.

If the outlet voltage is okay, I recommend checking the thermal cutoff fuse. Unplug the dryer and pull off the back panel. The thermal cutoff fuse is at the top of the heater box. It will have red and a red/white wire attached to it. Unplug the wires and measure the resistance across the leads of the fuse. You should measure near zero ohms of resistance (continuity). If you measure infinite resistance (open), then the fuse is blown and will need to be replaced. You can test the high limit thermostat (on the bottom side of the heater box) in the same manner if necessary. You can also check the operating thermostat (on the blower housing). If all of these components are okay, then you could have a failed timer, a bad motor centrifugal switch or a wiring failure in the heater circuit.

If you need more help with this dryer problem, resubmit your question with additional details.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician