Model #11062622101 Kenmore residential dryer

  • Top And Console
    3 Results
  • Cabinet
    3 Results
  • Bulkhead
    3 Results

Error Codes

Error Code:

Condition:

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Question and Answers

Q:

electric dryers

A:

Raquel F provided some basic troubleshooting from the owner's manual. If these tips did not help then you will need to move on to some advanced troubleshooting and diagnosis to determine the cause of your dryer problem. I assume that you are indicating that the dryer will not start. The first image below shows the wiring diagram for your dryer with the drive motor circuit traced in red. A failed door switch or a blown thermal fuse are probably the most common failures that would prevent your dryer from running. I recommend that you check the thermal fuse first. Unplug the dryer to disconnect electrical power and remove the back panel. The location of the thermal fuse is shown in the second image below. To test this fuse, remove one wire and measure the resistance across the leads of the component with a volt/ohm meter. You should measure near zero ohms of resistance if the fuse is good. If you measure Ol (open load or infinite resistance) then the fuse is blown and will need to be replaced. You can verify that this is the only failure that is preventing your dryer from running by taping the two wires that go to the thermal fuse together with electrical tape. This will "bypass" the fuse for a short test. Reassemble the dryer and see if the motor runs. If it does then replacing the thermal fuse will fix this dryer problem. NOTE: Do not continue to run the dryer with this fuse bypassed. It is an important safety component that must be replaced. Also, check the exhaust vent duct system to the outside of your home for a clog or restriction. A problem with exhaust air flow could cause the thermal fuse to blow again shortly after replacing it.

You can order parts from the Sears PartsDirect website.

If the thermal fuse is okay, you can check the door switch in a similar manner. I provided access information for this component in the third image below. Unplug the dryer and check for continuity (near zero ohms of resistance) through the switch with the door closed. If the door switch is defective, it will need to be replaced.

A bad push-to-start switch will also prevent the dryer from running. You can unplug the dryer and access this component by opening the console as shown at the bottom of the third image. Check for continuity through this component with the button pushed in.

A bad timer, failed drive motor or a wiring failure between components could also prevent the dryer from running. A technician will normally need to diagnose and repair this type of problem. Here is a link to the Sears Service website in case you need it: Sears Home Services .

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
July 13, 2010
Q:

My Kenmore Electric Dryer Model 11062622101 does not heat consistently.

A:

Thank you for your question and I understand your concern. Based on your symptom and details, the first thing I recommend doing for testing purposes only is to disconnect the vent hose from the back of the dryer and then dry one normal load of clothes. If it dries within the normal amount of time (50-60 min) then this test would confirm a restricted venting system. Check and clean the venting system.

If it continues to take several cycles to dry, then there could one of several different possible failures preventing the dryer from heating consistently. See image below to find the components by key numbers.

1. Loose wiring connection

2. Timer

3. Thermal cutoff (key#1)

4. Operating thermostat (key#42)

5. Hi Limit thermostat (key#34)

6. Motor centrifugal switch (part of motor)

The parts with key numbers are accessible from the rear of the dryer. Disconnect the power cord before removing the rear panel.

The heating element requires 220 volts in order to heat. There are several components connected in series between the timer and heating element which can open/break contact and then fail to close/make contact preventing L1 voltage supply from making it to one terminal of the heating element. The motor has a centrifugal switch that must also close 2M to 1M in order to complete and provide the L2 voltage to the other terminal of the heating element. See wiring diagram in the image below. I traced the L1 and L2 circuits in Red and Green. I circled the components which must be closed or made in order to complete the L1 and L2 voltages to the heating element. If any one of these components open/break contact, the heater will not work. Since your symptom is intermittent, it will be difficult to know which one is opened when it fails to heat. You could jump out one component at a time by disconnecting the two wires and joining them together and see if heats consistently. If it acts the same when you have one jumped out, reconnect the component and jump out the next one until you find it heating consistently and then replace that component.

Be sure to disconnect the power cord before servicing your dryer. Note: I do not recommend checking voltages unless you have experience and feel safe and confident in doing so, otherwise I recommend calling for service.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
December 15, 2010
Q:

My Kenmore Electric Dryer Model 11062622101 heats, but doesn't dry.

A:

Thank you for your question and I understand your concern. If the dryer is heating and the drum is rotating, then the likely cause of not drying is a restriction or blockage in the venting system.

For testing purposes only: Disconnect the vent hose from the back of the dryer and then dry one normal load of clothes. If the clothes dry in a normal amount of time (60 minutes) then this test would confirm a restriction or blockage in the venting system and it will need to checked and cleaned.

If it continues to heat and not dry, make sure the dryer drum is rotating. If it continues to heat and not dry then you should remove the vent hose from the back of the dryer and check the exhaust temperature with a thermometer. The exhaust temperature should average approximately 150 degrees when set to HIGH heat. If it does not average 150 degrees then it could have a faulty temperature switch, operating thermostat, hi-limit thermostat or heating element.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
January 11, 2011
A:

mp23: I'm glad you found the problem with the vent system being clogged, however I do not have a clear understanding of how the power cord could cause a spark and cause the breaker to trip unless the were exposed wires in the power cord. There will have to be some exposed wires in the power cord touching and shorting to the back of the dryer for this happen. I recommend disconnecting the power cord and then remove the terminal block cover where the power cord is attached and inspect for any wires that possibly could be touching the cabinet or panels. Inspect the power cord for any exposed wires and I also recommend not using the dryer until the problem with the power cord or dryer has been resolved.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
January 16, 2011
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