Model #11045872401 Kenmore Elite residential washers

  • Top And Cabinet Parts
    3 Results
  • Door And Latch Parts
    3 Results
  • Control Panel Parts
    3 Results
  • Dispenser Parts
    3 Results
  • Tub And Basket Parts
    3 Results
  • Pump And Motor Parts, Optional Parts (not Included)
    3 Results

Question and Answers

Q:

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A:

The link provided by Dezeray S. in the first response above correctly explains that the F2 error code indicates that your washer has a draining problem. The troubleshooting steps in that previous answer are good. If the long drain was not caused by excessive suds, then you will likely need to unplug the washer and check the large item filter for the pump. The image below shows how to access this area. If the washer door is still locked and the washer is full of water, then you can manually unlock the door by carefully reaching up along the inside of the front panel and pulling down on the manual release tab at the bottom of the door lock assembly (with the washer unplugged). Drain the water from the inside of the tub using a wet/dry shop vacuum before removing the large item filter as shown below. Also, you will need to position towel or a shallow pan (baking pan) under the clean out filter to catch residual water before removing it. You may find a clog or obstruction in this are that is preventing the washer from draining properly.

If you need more help, reply with additional details and we will assist you further.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
October 13, 2010
Q:

How do I replace the bellows on my 2 year old HE3 washer?

A:

The following link of a previous answer provides the procedure for replacing the bellows in your HE3 washer:

How do I replace the bellows seal on my Kenmore washer?

You can order a replacement bellows from Sears PartsDirect [www.searspartsdirect.com].

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
June 06, 2008
Q:

why does the Kenmore front loader washer sound like the tub is going to fall off?

A:

This noise points to a failure in the spin basket and/or rear tub shell/bearing. With the washer empty, open the door and push up on the spin basket to check for play in relation to the outer tub. Spin the basket a few degrees and check it again. Check the basket for play around the entire 360 degrees. If you encounter s spot where you detect significant play, then you likely have a bad spin basket. A failed bearing in the rear half of the out tub could also cause this problem.

If you detect a likely problem with the spin basket or the rear bearing using this test, I recommend that you have the washer serviced by a Sears Technician. Based on your warranty, it would make more sense to have a Sears Technician repair a spin basket or bearing problem since the parts would be covered if the washer is less than 10 year old. Check the owner's manual for specific information on your warranty. Here is a link for your owner's manual in case you need it: Owner's Manual . The basket has a lifetime limited warranty and the outer tub has a 10 year limited warranty. You would have to pay for labor (likely around $130) to have this type of failure diagnosed and repaired but the parts would be covered. Call Sears Service at 1-800-469-4663 (1-800-4MY-HOME) to schedule service if needed.

Even if you detect no play in the spin basket, you could still have a problem with the rear tub shell/bearing based on the noise and rattle that you describe.

An item stuck between the spin basket and the outer tub could be causing a rattling noise but it would not likely cause the high pitch squeal at the end of the cycle.

If you need more help, resubmit your question with additional details.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
April 28, 2010