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Kenmore 795.7102 Refrigerator Compressor not starting. Freezer not working.

Hi. My Kenmore 795.7102 Refrigerator started dripping water from the ice maker, so I check and found out my bottom freezer was defrosting. It was not getting cold. Then I checked and can hear the rear fan running but no compressor sound. I took off the back cover, suggested by some of the other post and could not hear or feel any vibrations from the compressor. I unplugged the fridge and moved all the food out to see if it was a frosting issue. But there was no water in the drip pan. I left it unplugged for several hours. I plugged the fridge back in, and same thing. The condenser fan turns on, but the compressor does not seem to be starting up. Is there a way to check for errors or diagnostic code. There were no error indicators from the display manual.

Posted April 17, 2013

Answers

Jackson, April 17, 2013

Forgot to put the Full Model number 795.71023.011

Joseph P., April 17, 2013

I am sorry that you are having some difficulties with your refrigerator and freezer and I will be happy to help. I did some research and I was able to find a link that will provide you with some good information. I hope this helps with your research while you wait for your expert response.

Jackson, April 18, 2013

Thanks for the link Joseph. I forgot to mention the fridge is 1.5 years old. Didn't think it would have issues so soon. I noticed the compressor tank does not get hot. I don't hear the compressor motor. I only hear and see the condenser fan running. I couldn't find a starter as in some of the other posts, but found a white box with a controller board of some sort with a fuse on it. There is an LED in it, but no buttons. I read somewhere that there is a test that can be initiated for the fridge to cycle through each component to test for startup issues, but I don't know if this applies to this fridge. The board looks pretty clean. The only thing I noticed out of the ordinary is the fuse looks a little burned on one end, but I'm not sure if that is for the starter or the whole fridge or what it is for. I can't really tell if the fuse is okay since there looks like a connection inside the glass, but hard to tell. And the fuse doesn't look like something I can just snap out and replace to test it without unsoldering it. I attached some pictures.

Scott D , April 19, 2013

Thank  you for your question and the pictures. I know it's frustrating when the refrigerator and freezer stop cooling. In the second picture the fuse would appear to be open but if the fuse blows, the complete unit will shut down. There is no error code for the compressor. If the fan motors are running but not the compressor, the problem will be with the compressor itself, the starting device on the compressor or the control board. These are checks a technician will need to make. I'm listing a site you can access, to have a tech come out. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services. If you would like more assistance, reply to this thread and I will assist you further.

Jackson, April 21, 2013

Thanks Scott. Do you know where I can order a replacement fuse. I tried Radio Shack and they don't seem to have the ones with an axial where I can solder on.

Scott D , April 23, 2013

Jackson, there is no special fuse. This is just a standard 250 volt 5 amp buss fuse. Unfortunately, the manufacturer did not intend for this fuse to be replaced. The reason being, that if the fuse blew, there was probably a problem in the board that caused it to blow. Now, if the unit is running, the fuse on the board will still be ok. I hope this helps you.

Jackson, April 28, 2013

Thanks Scott and everyone. I read on another page and purchased a fuse holder and matching T5A 250V fuse. Learned a lot from this. Turns out it is a slow blow fuse marked by the T in T5A. Found it at Fry's electronics. I went to Radio shack and they were out of stock. The fuse holder was good since it allowed me to solder that on to the existing fuse as I was not able to find one with an axial. I put the new fuse in, and Scott was right, the new one blew the instant I plugged it in. So I took out the board from the plastic chassis and found that there was residue on the back and looked like moisture had been there at one point in time. So I figure the board was shorted. I found the board on line, but was able to find one on ebay. I took a chance and ordered it. I got the replacement board installed two days ago, been running great. I think the excess condensation might be from pushing the fridge too close to the wall. only 1" when it needed 2" according to the manual. So now I stuck a plastic bottle about 2" in the back to keep the fridge from going back too far. Hope the new board will last longer. From an engineering standpoint, probably not a good idea for the main board to be behind the path of the condenser coil and fan since any evaporated moisture would be blown towards it. I'm just glad it wasn't any thermostat sensors, since I presume those would be hard to replace.

Scott D , April 29, 2013

Jackson, thank you for the information and for using Manage My life.

Roy, July 12, 2014

I have a Kenmore Ref. Model 795.71023.011. Compressor Model # LG75LANE The ice and frozen food all got defrosted and compressor stop running! I unplug and plug power a few times but compressor did not run. I consulted the service manual and Compressor ohm reading is normal (6.5 ohm, measured from the connector) and ground check came out OK. This leads me to believed that the compressor is electrically good. The LED test on the controller showed 5 Ons and 2 Offs > Piston Lock Trip - Suggesting a replacement on the compressor. I checked the PCB E-Inverter operating voltage and measured ~ 157 volts. What is a Piston Lock Trip? Is there an Overload reset on this compressor? Is there anything you can suggest before I purchased another Refrigerator?

Roy, July 12, 2014

I have a Kenmore Ref. Model 795.71023.011. Compressor Model # LG75LANE The ice and frozen food all got defrosted and compressor stop running! I unplug and plug power a few times but compressor did not run. I consulted the service manual and Compressor ohm reading is normal (6.5 ohm, measured from the connector) and ground check came out OK. This leads me to believed that the compressor is electrically good. The LED test on the controller showed 5 Ons and 2 Offs > Piston Lock Trip - Suggesting a replacement on the compressor. I checked the PCB E-Inverter operating voltage and measured ~ 157 volts. What is a Piston Lock Trip? Is there an Overload reset on this compressor? Is there anything you can suggest before I purchased another Refrigerator?

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