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Vax Vacuummodel #X3

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F21 error on Kenmore Elite HE5t washer

Running a simple rinse cycle, the washer pumps water out of the drain, and then the pump continues to run for 8 minutes until the F21 error is displayed. I've even poured a fixed amount of water into the washer, run the shortest rinse cycle, and the same amount of water then gets pumped out (within a few seconds), but the pump never shuts off until F21 shows up. No issues previously w/ this unit. I've done the following: > Checked the drain hoses into and out of the pump, as well as out the back of the washer - no obstructions. > Checked all wiring harnesses and connections - all appear to be seated properly. > Opened and cleaned the drain pump filter - there was a small amount of debris, but nothing that would have blocked the flow significantly > Checked and then replaced the drain pump - I ordered a replacement and installed the new one, but the condition persists. In retrospect I think the old pump is probably fine...the new one functions identically and F21 still triggers. > Checked the water level pressure switch - it appears to be working fine. I disconnected the hose, blew into it and there was no apparent obstruction. Blowing into the switch assembly I could hear a "click" indicating that the analog switch is working (although I suppose the electrical could still be bad). > Ran a full auto diagnostic (x3) - the diagnostic runs fine until it gets into step C:06, and then the machine just powers off completely. I suspect that a sensor, switch, etc. which should be registering the end of the drain cycle is simply not doing so correctly, or maybe it's a faulty suds sensor (although I don't know why that wouldn't trigger a suds-specific error). I've read about trying to check the 11 & 14 or 21 & 22 contacts with a multimeter to verify switch functionality (in case the water level or suds sensors are malfunctioning), and I've tested those...the resistance does change (2.4 to 5.0 (multimeter on x200 setting)). I'm a mechanically savvy guy, what do I try next?

Posted October 22, 2012

Answers

Henry, October 22, 2012

Good morning... You've given an excellent description of the symptoms you're experiencing. While you are waiting for an expert response to your question, take a moment and review the information I have provided you in the link below. The link will pull up a full page of similar situations to yours. It is my hope, that as you investigate, something will jump out at you that might solve your issue. Keep in mind that you will be hearing from an expert within the next two business days. I hope this helps and have a nice day.

Cory, October 22, 2012

I made sure to search through all of these responses prior to posting, unfortunately. I'm hoping for a response from Joey S, whom it looks like has resolved many of these Kenmore washer issues in the past! :)

Jerry C, October 23, 2012

Hello Cory,

I would like to assist you with your F21 error code. I would like the exact model number off of the washer if you could reply with it. There are two different types of systems that detect the water level and judging from the ohms that you listed, you have a transducer and not a pressure switch. Transducers send the CCU the water level data via PWM and Ohms is not a viable test, you would need an oscilloscope to test it and even then, the exact values are not available. I have had a very high percentage of fixes by simply replacing the transducer. On another note, don't blow into them, it bottoms out the diaphragm on certain types and destroys them if they were in working order-this didn't happen to yours-I think it had failed prior. One Ohm test that is a good one to perform is to test the circuit at the CCU. This will verify that there are no faulty connections between the transducer and the CCU.

Please let me know if you would like any further assistance.

Jerry C

Cory, October 23, 2012

Hey Jerry, thanks, I appreciate the help. The model number is 110.47087600. I do believe it does have a pressure switch...it's a round unit that seems to be an analog pressure switch, and it did click when I blew into it (although I won't again). The tube seemed clear as well, which is why I didn't think the issue was related to the switch. I can do a more accurate test with the multimeter...it's possible that I had it on the wrong setting. What multimeter setting should I use, which contacts should I test, and what result should I look for when testing the main CCU circuit? Would the automatic diagnostic test progress all the way through step C:06 if the CCU was bad? It's strange to me that it just shuts off at that point.

Cory, October 23, 2012

I found this testing guide for the pressure switch (see link), and all of the pin combinations tested as indicated, as well as the two pins on the CCU connector. This seems to be from a slightly older washer model, but I'm assuming the pressure switch and 6-pin connector are the same. About the only other thing I could think to check was the ball valve on the bottom of the tub. I disconnected the bellows piece from the back of the pump filter to check for debris inside there, and it looked clear. I read that it's a pain to reconnect and seal it back to the tub, so I didn't pull the tub end off. The ball moves freely, and I believe it works fine, because again, when I dump a lot of water into the tub and start the simplest No Spin/Rinse cycle, the pump clears the water immediately. It's just that the pump continues to run indefinitely until the F21. This is frustrating me to no end, and the laundry's piling up...

Cory, October 25, 2012

Can I get some more help here? I can't wait much longer. Jerry, Joey? This is directed towards the site owners and not the Expert community, but I wish that the fact that an Expert asked for clarification hadn't flagged my question as "Expert Answered" on the site...marking a response as a true answer should be left in the hands of the asker. :( Is my question now doomed?

Cory, November 01, 2012

I re-posted and got an answer from another expert. The pressure switch was the problem. Fortunately I found a used one for $5 on eBay and swapping it out did the trick. Glad I didn't have to resort to a new controller.

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