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Schwinn Cyclemodel #150

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Whirlpool Quiet Partner 1

Yesterday, I made a post about my Whirlpool Quiet Partner Dishwasher Model # DU1010XTXQ1 not wanting to start and Fred M made a reply and much of what he said pointed to the door switch which I had previously tested. So I decided to check it again and it works fine. While I had the panel off I rapped a couple of times lightly on the plastic back of the electronic control board and the water inlet valve process started and after the water was full the drain process came on and stayed on until I pressed the cancel key. Does this sound like a faulty electronic control board? My other posts and Fred's reply are below. Thanks

Posted November 14, 2013

Answers

larry, November 14, 2013

I purchased a Whirlpool Quiet Partner 1 dishwasher Model # DU1010XTXQ1 from Sears about 2 years ago and it worked fine up until 3 days ago. Then it would not start. So just for the hell of it, I lightly bumped the unit up near the control panel with my hand (with emphasis on the word, lightly) and it started right up. This routine went on 2 more times but today the unit will not start regardless (also no inlet of water) or in other words the lights are on but nobody is home. Today, the first time I press the Start key, the light comes on as usual, and then when I press it again it blinks 3 times and stops and of course the unit does not start up. I removed the panels to have access to the door switch. I removed the switch and checked the continuity with my VOM and it appears to work fine with good continuity. I reinstalled the switch and panel. Don�t know why I didn�t bother to check the voltage. Next I did the Service Diagnostic Test: I pressed the 1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3 key order and all LEDS came on. The test did its thing and the following were the results as indicated by the Clean LED: Error 1- Most Recent = 6 - 4 Error 2 = 4 - 3 Service Cycle Error = 6 - 1 Service Cycle Error = 6 - 4 Then I checked the float switch and it clicked as normal when I lifted the float. I didn�t take it apart or check for continuity or voltage. Next, I removed the inlet valve and it appeared to not be clogged (the screen was clear). I then removed the plug and checked the continuity of the inlet valve and it appeared to be good. Next, I pressed the Start key and checked the voltage at the inlet valve�s disconnected plug terminals (inside) and the voltage fluctuated from 24 to about 32 volts AC. I repeated the Service Diagnostic Test again and held the VOM probes in place inside the plug and the same voltage readings occurred again. Even though the wires are tiny shouldn�t there be line voltage, i.e., 120 volts AC? What should I do next?

larry, November 14, 2013

Fred m Expert Fred M EXPERT November 13, 2013 Thank you for the question and the details. I am sorry you are having a problem with your Whirlpool DU1010xtxq1 Dishwasher. Great details about the problem. Pressing the Start keypad and getting the three blinks something that will happen if the control thinks the door is open. A door switch problem also points to the lightly touching the door and it starts to work issue you mentioned. About the 32 volts to the inlet valve problem. The control contains triacs which deliver the neutral side of the circuit. On this type of control you can not remove the wires to check voltage. The wires must be connected to the valve to get a good read. It can be difficult to get normal meter leads into the connector to check voltage while the inlet valve is connected. You may need to get smaller micro leads to check voltage while the water valve is connected. The 6-4/4-3/6-1 error codes point to low water level, float problem or motor problem. All three might be caused by a door switch problem. The diagram below may be helpful to you. Try checking voltage to the valve with the wires connected. You can reply below with any additional details for further assistance. Thank you for using Manage My Life.

larry, November 14, 2013

Larry Newbie larry November 13, 2013 Thanks for your reply, Fred. Much appreciated. However, maybe I didn't make myself clear. I didn't lightly touch the door. I bumped it pretty good with the heel of my hand. I used the word, lightly, so whoever read my post would not think that I whacked it like it was a pinball machine (showing my age, LOL). The door was closed with the latch securely clicked. Evidently, the vibration made something make contact or the unit would not have run. It must be the door switch I thought. So I checked it with the continuity beep of my VOM and it worked correctly when I clicked it on and off. So if I can successfully check the voltage at the inlet valve, what is the normal reading? Also, shouldn't the motor attempt to run and the rest of the cycles continue even if there's no inlet water or function of the valve? This make me think it's the main circuit board, maybe with a loose component or wire, but I hate to spend 150 bucks for a new board just to see if the problem is fixed. That's what I call a "hit or miss mechanic" which is an expensive and dumb way to do things. Think of all the money spent over the years on ignition coils and there was nothing wrong with 'em. Thanks for any reply, Fred. I appreciate your time and effort. Larry

dtova00, November 16, 2013

Thank you for your question. You have done some great troubleshooting on your dishwasher. If you gave it a good whack and it started working, check for a loose connection. Get a pencil and with the eraser, disconnect the connection, erase it and brush off the residue with a clean make up brush. See if this helps. Being that the board is so close to the vent, humidity may cause corrosion around the connection.

If you have any other questions or concerns, please reply to this post

Thank you for choosing Manage My Life 

larry, November 16, 2013

Thanks for your reply, dtova00. I removed the control board. There are numerous connections going to the control board and none appear to be loose. In fact, it takes considerable effort to disconnect all the connections.

dtova00, November 19, 2013

Thank you again for responding. If you have tested the fuse and it is good and the electrical is good, then it is time to change the board. See image below.

If you have any questions please reply to this post.

Thank you for choosing Manage My Life.

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