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Kenmore Washermodel #11029822800

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Kenmore 800 "load sensing" model 110.29822800, begins agitating immediately & for entire fill & at end of spin cycle fills for 10 sec. with water.

I have a Kenmore 800 "load sensing" top loader washing machine- model 110.29822800 (just over 1 yr. old) It seems ONLY on the NORMAL cycle if it is set on REGULAR (I've tested a few other cycles, all of which seem to work just fine)...where the washer immediately starts agitating while filling with water at the beginning of the cycle, and continues to agitate while water is filling. Then the rest of the cycle seems to run just fine. But after it is finished with the spin, it fills up with water for about 10 seconds and then stops, leaving the clothes wet. I have read things that said it could either be the sensor switch or the timer. I have opened up the console and checked the load sense switch, by disconnecting the wires as mentioned by another post from an Expert on here (the plug with the white, violet and blue w/ orange stripe). I closed everything up, plugged it back in and went to start the NORMAL-Regular cycle and nothing happened. I just want to be sure that because of the results of this test, that it is indeed the load sensor switch and not the timer. If so, I can not figure out how to get that load sensor switch removed from the panel. Do you have a detailed instruction page for this or could you possibly explain it to me? Also... I want to be sure I order the correct part. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-11029822800/0582/0153200/K0904030/00002?blt=06&prst=0&shdMod=11029822800 When looking at the parts order page for Sears, is the load sensor #17 (PART NUMBER: W10177795), named "Sensor Switch," on the diagram? If it is the timer, I will assume the part I need to get is the "Timer" (PART NUMBER: W10187167). Is this correct? Please advise as to which part you think is causing the issue and needs to be replaced, and also instructions on how to remove the part from the panel. I can't afford a new washer or a large repair bill. :( Thanks so much in advance for any help you may be able to provide!

Posted August 17, 2011

Answers

Priscilla V, August 17, 2011

A Washer is definitely something we depend and when starts malfunctioning it can be a big inconvenience. I have attached some links below well you are waiting for an expert to reply , that give great information on way this may be happening. Hope it helps!

Landell , August 18, 2011

Hello,

Thank you for submitting a question to Manage My Life. I know how frustrating it can be when appliances do not function properly.

From your description you have a bad load sense switch, part number W10177795.

To remove the load sense switch from the console bracket, you will need to release the tab demonstrated in the first image below. Pull it back and away from the metal bracket and then twist the switch to line up the "ears" on the switch with the holes in the bracket.

I hope this is helpful. If I may be of further assistance as more details become available, please reply to this post.

Thanks again for using Manage My Life.

Landell

Anonymous, November 07, 2012

I am also dealing with this problem now (Fall 2012). It is amazing how many discussion threads I've found on the internet and this Sears website that refer to this problem. Looks like Sears/Whirlpool stuck their customers with a lemon. Too bad in my case the problem did not show its ugly head until the warranty expired. I replaced the timer myself but it did not fix the problem. Looks like my next step is the load sensor, but I don't know if I want to tackle it myself. Can I be confident that replacing the sensor will correct the problem?

Anonymous, January 04, 2013

I have the same problem that is described above, so I ordered the replacement for the noted load sensor switch W10177795. The replacement is supposed to be W10292584. Well, that's not the part that is original in our machine! When I opened the control panel I found the part is W10248240. Looks like Kenmore/Whirlpool is still fooling around with the parts until they find ones that work. Now I have to try to return the part I bought and find the more current part. However I have to say - it should be easy to replace - once I find the right part.

Anonymous, February 23, 2013

Finally fixed it! It was part# W10248240 (temp control/load-sensing switch) - NOT the part# noted by previous responders. Easy job. Only tool needed is putty knife to pry open the control panel.

chris, July 26, 2014

I just fixed this without spending a dime. I was having the same problem, but it was intermittent. Clue number one. Start the machine and it would begin agitating as it filled and then would soak the clothes after the final spin cycle. After several hours of online research I think I figured it out. My discharge pipe is at 40" which is lower than the recommended 42". If you read the recommendation on the temp control/load-sensing switch W10248240, it says that water can siphon from the discharge and damage the switch. Clue number two. I opened the panel which involved sliding a putty knife under the white end caps and releasing a spring. It took a little feeling around, but once I found the spring, it just took a little pressure to push it back and release it. There were also two screws in the back. I removed the switch from the panel by turning it counter clock wise about a quarter of a turn. Take the knob off the front by gently pulling. Then I removed the wires and tube from the switch. Once in hand, I opened the switch up to reveal the board. I needed a small screwdriver to get the switch open. I checked the contacts from the switch to the board and there was some goo on board. I'm not an electrician, but I'm guessing this goo was intentional to maintain good contact. However, it was all over the place. So I'm thinking that moisture may have gotten in there some how (but I didn't see evidence of water damage) and messed up the contact. So, I wiped it clean and popped everything back together. I also bent the contact prongs a little so they would be tighter against the board. I kind of figured that it maybe it wasn't an entirely bad switch because the problem came and went. It works so far as of 7/26/14. I will now get a longer discharge pipe. If I have any further problems I'll be sure to update this conversation.

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