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Hoovermodel #70

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Kenmore 70 Series Dryer has no heat?

My Kenmore 70 Series Dryer (Model No. 110.66742500) has quit producing heat, and everything else seems to be functioning fine. We have a roof vent and I have inspected it on the roof and from the inside up to the roof with my duct cleaner/sweep. I went to the Sears Parts Store and purchased a new heating element, thermal cut-off, and fuse (as the rep told me the thermal cut-off could be the problem and/or possibly the fuze). I have removed the back panel of my dryer and have tested wires with my volt-meter and have taken apart the the heating element. All connections/wires seem to test good. The heating element coils are black, but I did not see any breaks in the coils, although the coils seem to be more frail than the replacement heating element I purchased. Attached are a couple of pictures I took with both heating elements in the picture for comparison. Would it be recommended to replace the heating element? How do you know if you need to replace the Thermal Cut-off or the Fuze? Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks, Ian

Posted August 13, 2011

Answers

Barbara H. , August 13, 2011

Diagnosing no heat in a dryer can be a long, complicated process. I see you have done much of the initial troubleshooting. I checked through the expert archives for this model and located a previous expert post that seems to have step by step troubleshooting that may help nail down this issue. I attached below if you would like to review while waiting for your expert.

Ian, August 13, 2011

Actually I just found a broken coil on the heating element. I am going to start with replacing the heating element and go from there. Please advise if there are any other recommendations. Thank you, Ian

Fred M, August 14, 2011

The elements in the image you sent both look okay. The element will loose the shine after being used. As long as there are no breaks the element is most likely okay.

The wiring diagram below may help you find the problem.

First thing I suggest you do is check the two circuit breakers for the dryer. It is possible one will trip leaving the dryer 120 volts to run on but not have 240 volts to heat with. Try turning each breaker off and then on to see if there is any improvement.

The timer and motor switch are difficult parts to check so I'd suggest you start with the thermal cutoff, operating thermostat and hi-limit thermostat. Each can be checked for continuity if a meter is available.

These particular parts can also be checked without a meter by removing the two wires on each part and joining them together to bypass the part. Remember to unplug the dryer first. Try each one at a time to discover if the problem continues.

I hope this helps you resolve this problem.

Let me know how the checks go and reply with any additional details for further assistance.

Ian, August 15, 2011

Fred- Thank you for your response! As I mentioned earlier I found a break in the coil on the heating element. The coil was rather frail and burnt (kind of scary). After finding this, I went ahead and replaced the heating element, put everything back together and started it up. And yes, we had heat again. Now the lady at the Sears Parts Store said the heating element is usually the last thing to go and she recommended to check the Thermo Cut-Off and Fuze. I checked all wires with my voltage tester (my voltage tester is not a meter, it is just one of those testers that beeps if there is juice running through the wires). After replacing the heating element and found that the dryer is functioning again, I returned the Thermo Cut-Off and Fuze parts back to the Sears Parts Store for a refund and called it a day. My only concern is being rest-assured that I did this correctly and that I don't cause any other harm to the dryer or our house (house fire)?? So far my wife has done several loads of laundry since Saturday and everything seems to be working fine. Hopefully I did the right thing and a good job! Any other advise or recommendations would be greatly appreciated! Thank you, Ian

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