Model #YREX4634KQ0 ROPER Residential Dryer

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Question and Answers

Q:

how do I replace the heating element on my dryer?

A:

I'm sorry about the difficulties that you are experiencing with your Dryer. I did some research at Manage My Life.com and found an expert answer to a similar question that may assist you until your expert can respond. I have attached the link below. If you would like assistance from a qualified technician I have also attached a link to Sears Home Services.com. I hope these links will help until your expert can respond.

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Dezeray S -
January 31, 2011
A:

Unplug the dryer to disconnect electrical power. Remove the back panel as shown in the first image below. The second and third images show how to remove the heating element on a similar model. Your dryer will not have the thermistor (temperature sensor) but the procedure shown below is basically the same for your model. Follow the procedure shown below to remove the heating element on your dryer. Replace the element and reassemble the dryer.

If you need more help, reply with additional details and we will assist you further.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
February 01, 2011
A:

I changed out the heating element but it still won't heat. What are the next steps/items that you recommend with my dryer? Thanks,

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sterling -
February 03, 2011
A:

The wiring diagram for your dryer is shown in the first image below. The red line traces the L1 leg of 240 volt power. The L2 leg is traced in green. Since the dryer runs, you have the L1 leg supplied to the dryer (even though it may or may not be supplied to the element). I recommend that you verify that you have the L2 leg supplied to the dryer by determining whether the timer will advance in a timed cycle. The timer motor is a 240 volt motor so that it should advance if 240 volts are properly supplied to the dryer. The circuit that is completed to the L2 leg from the timer in the timed cycle is traced in blue. If the timer advances, then I recommend that you check the components in the L1 circuit for continuity (thermal cut off fuse, high limit thermostat and operating thermostat). The locations of those components are shown in the third image. I provided a link for a Repair Clinic.com video that shows how to check for continuity through a fuse or thermostat. If any of those components are "open" then they will need to be replaced. If the thermal cut-off fuse is open, then all 3 of the components should be replaced since the operating thermostat and high limit thermostat should have opened to prevent that fuse from blowing. If the timer does not advance in a timed cycle then I recommend that you check the voltage at the dryer outlet using the second image below as a guide. NOTE: You should only check this live outlet voltage using a volt/ohm meter if you are completely confident in your technical ability to safely measure it. These tips should help you determine the cause of your heating failure in the dryer. If you need more help, reply with additional details.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
February 03, 2011
A:

Thank very much for the help! The thermal cutoff fuse was blown. I have it running now.

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sterling -
February 05, 2011
A:

I am glad that you found the cause of the problem. Make sure that it is cycling at the proper temperature (around 140 to 150 F). If not, you may have a problem with the cycling thermostat and/or high limit thermostat may need to be replaced as noted in the above replay. Let us know if you need more help.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
February 07, 2011
A:

I went ahead and replaced the hight limit thermostat and the operating thermostat as you had recommended in your second reply. Thanks.

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sterling -
February 07, 2011
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