Model #RF378PXGQ1 WHIRLPOOL Free Standing, Electric

  • Cooktop/literature
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  • Control Panel
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  • Chassis
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  • Door
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  • Drawer & Broiler/optional
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Question and Answers

Q:

Cook top range hot surface indicator stays lit; oven light switch turns off power to oven control RF378PXGQ1

A:

Thank you for your question. I'm sorry you are having this problem with the range and I can understand your concern. Normally, if the hot surface lights are staying on, after it has cooled down, it indicates the sensor is stuck closed. The sensor is part of the element, so the element for the indicator that is on, will need to be replaced. However, this is quite strange based on the information that is listed. If the range worked properly before and if this is a new connection, it's possible this could be caused by a poor ground or possibly no ground at all. I would recommend having a technician check this. I'm listing a site you can access, to schedule a tech to come out. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services. I hope this will help you. If you would like more assistance, reply to this thread and I will be glad to assist you further.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
October 24, 2013
A:

Thanks, Scott D. Aha Question: Does this range support installation with 3-wire "pigtail?" Range was connected previously in a newer home with a 4-wire cable. Current location is an older home and receptacle only accepts the 3-wire connector. I had spent time browsing through DIY books and quizzing the associates at a local home improvement center, and found that their new ranges indeed support 3- or 4- wire installations and had a decal at the rear of the range showing how to do either. I replaced the 4-wire conductor with the 3-wire per directions. The difference as you know is the 4-wire hookup aside from two hot wires and a ground wire to the chassis, includes a neutral (white wire) connected to the center lug on the range terminal, whereas the 3-wire has only has a center for ground, and two hot wires, with no wire for neutral. The instructions were to connect the hot wires each to their outer lugs on the terminal and to connect the center wire to the center (neutral) lug instead of to the ground lug. Could this possibly have anything to do with the problems we're experiencing? Do we need to jumper the neutral to the ground screw? The problems again are: 1. Oven control display shows "PF" when range first plugged in to power. 2. Two of the hot surface lights come on, even though no elements are turned on. 3. After resetting clock to get rid of the "PF" indication, toggling oven light switch off extinguishes both the display AND the hot surface lights, and HSL & PF come on again when toggled back on. 4. When the surface elements heat up nicely, the rest of the hot surface lights come on, and extinguish themselves when the surfaces are cool enough to touch, leaving the original two HSL's still lit up. 5. Even with display & HSL's off, the surface elements still heat up nicely. Should we suspect the "missing" ground? Any additional insight/assistance much appreciated.

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Maintenance -
October 24, 2013
A:

This range will work with the 3 or 4 prong power cord. If the neutral wire is connected, that is all that is necessary. However, I would suggest checking to see if this neutral is working properly. To make this check, check from each outside hot wire to the center neutral terminal. There should be 120 volts on both checks. If this does not happen, the neutral is not connected in either the wall outlet or at the breaker. An electrician would need to make this type of repair. If this check is ok, I would suspect a wiring problem inside the range and a technician would need to make this check and repair. You can call 1-800-469-4663 to schedule a tech to come out. I hope this will help you.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
October 25, 2013
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