Model #P7 KOOLATRON Coolers

  • Unit Parts
    3 Results
Find part by diagram >

Question and Answers

Q:

I have a Kenmore Ultra wash dishwasher that has no power on the control panel. There is power at the plug. There are no lights on. Is there an internal Fuse?

A:

I use my dishwasher very often and I know how fast dirty dishes can gather. While you are waiting for an expert answer, I did manage to find a link that will provide you with more information about your problem. I hope my link is useful.

Read More
Joseph P. -
January 05, 2011
A:

The link provided by Joseph P. in the above response describes a dishwasher that does not have a fuse.

Your model of Kenmore dishwasher does have that thermal fuse in the console. The first image below shows a portion of the wiring diagram for this dishwasher with the thermal fuse (also called TCO -- Thermal Cut-Out) circled in red. The second image shows a parts diagram. The thermal fuse is Key 18 on that diagram. I provided a picture of the fuse in the third image. According to your description, it is likely that this thermal fuse is blown in your dishwasher. You can order a replacement fuse from the Sears PartsDirect website. The part number is 675813. Here is a direct link for that part: Thermal fuse . The 4th image shows how to replace that component. Be sure that you shut off the circuit breaker or unplug the dishwasher before accessing internal components. You can remove screws from the inner door panel to release the console.

Before starting the dishwasher, check the heating element and other components. Look for apparent damage or loose wires. After you replace the thermal fuse, be sure that you carefully check the operation of the dishwasher. A problem with the heating element or drive motor could have caused the thermal fuse to blow. It will blow again if a component failure still exists.

If you need more help, reply with additional details and we will assist you further.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

NOTE: This answer is based on Kenmore dishwasher with the full model number of 665.15819990. Use that full model number for accessing the parts diagram if necessary.

Read More
Lyle W -
Sears Technician
January 08, 2011
A:

Here is the 4th image.

Read More
Lyle W -
Sears Technician
January 08, 2011
A:

Lyle, the information you supplied above is excellent. I have the same symptom (no power on the control panel). There is power to the machine. It actually quit before draining. Does the same fuse work with Model 665.15895791? Thank you.

Read More
Michael -
April 05, 2011
A:

The parts diagram for that dishwasher shows the same type of thermal fuse in the console (part number 675813). If that thermal fuse is blown, then the console will be dead. You can shut off the breaker for the dishwasher and check that fuse. I provided a link below this response that shows a video on how to test that fuse. If the fuse is "open" then it will need to be replaced. Use the harness that comes with that kit to replace the fuse (with the circuit breaker for the dishwasher shut off). If the fuse is okay, then you could have a bad electronic control board in the dishwasher. Let us know if you need more help with this problem.

Read More
Lyle W -
Sears Technician
April 19, 2011
A:

I have a similar dishwasher and have replaced the themal fuse (twice) as well as door switch (once). I was having some trouble with the door switch and assumed that it was causing the problem ...Wrong!! A couple of questions for Joseph, but first of all, I commend you for providing a geat article on this issue. Question 1) Why is the wiring included with the above mentioned parts and why do you recommend repacing them? Question 2) Both times the dishwasher failed, there was a significant amount of water in the base of dishwaher. We don't use heat dry so I assume it wouldn't be the heater element. Does this suggest that the pump motor is the cause of the fuse failure?

Read More
Robert -
May 05, 2012
A:

Hello Robert. If you have the type of dishwasher that is described by Michael then the wiring harness is included because the kit is used for several different models. Some of the models will benefit from using that wiring harness. If the thermal fuse failed, then the drain pump will have no power to pump out the water. A problem with a check valve or the drain path can also prevent the water from draining properly. Reply with additional details and the full model number of your dishwasher if you need more help. With that model number, we may be able to provide more detailed help.

Read More
Lyle W -
Sears Technician
May 08, 2012
A:

Thanks for response Lyle. My third thermal fuse arrived and I plan to do the install this week. My diswasher is a Kenmore Ultra Dishwasher, Model # 665.17002 400. A local appliance technician advised me to install the wiring harness that came with the thermal fuse. I hadn't done this on the 2 previous fuse replacements and am curious why he would recommend this? Is there a history of faulty electrical connections or perhaps I misunderstood the advice (deliverd via a 3rd party)? After the last fuse install, I got about 7 wash cycles before another failure...again leaving a lots of water in the base. Note: drain path has been checked and is clear. Your advice is appreciated!

Read More
Robert -
May 13, 2012
A:

Robert,

Lyle is taking some vacation time. I will be answering his questions for a few days.

It is unlikely that the drain pump is causing the thermal fuse to fail, but you can ohm the drain winding from the control board to make sure it is within specifications. I am including the wiring diagram below. Always unplug or de-energize electrical equipment before removing covers or attempting service. Be careful and wear appropriate hand protection when working around sharp metal parts. The connections were found to be causing excess heat. The harness that is included with the fuse kit is to ensure that the connections are good. We have always recommended that the entire fuse kit be installed.

I hope this is helpful. If I may be of further assistance please reply to this post.

Landell

Read More
Landell -
Sears Technician
May 14, 2012
A:

I have no power and need to change something in the control panel. This issue I have is it has the buttons on top(Kenmore ultrawash 665.1389) How do I get into the control panel.

Read More
Megan -
July 11, 2012
See more answers
Q:

Kitchenaid Oven KEBC177KBL0 - how do you put the oven door back on? (more detail than pg 22 in the use and care guide please)

A:

Having the door probably installed is very important. I did some research on your model number but was not able to find a solution for getting the door back on. Your expert will be able to help answer your question. It may take two business days. I do hope that everything works out on the oven.

Read More
Marc -
February 03, 2013
A:

That notch that is circled in green on the first image below should fit into the hinge receptacle on the body of the oven and you should then be able to open the oven fully. It appears that the hinge stop did not prevent the hinge from retracting to the closed position. The hinge will normally be sticking out at an angle as shown in the photographs that I posted in the second image. Those photographs show a similar hinge system that uses the same procedure for removing and replacing the oven door. You will need to pull the hinges out as shown in this video to replace the door: Video: How to Reinstall Your Oven Door . That should help you solve the problem. If you need more help, let us know.

Read More
Lyle W -
Sears Technician
February 05, 2013
A:

Here are the images.

Read More
Lyle W -
Sears Technician
February 05, 2013
A:

Lyle - thanks. Here is an update. used the pipe to move the hinge to flip the hinge stop. The picture above is with the hinge stop already in place. I've attached 3 pictures. Left on is with the hinge stop in place. middle is with hinge stop flipped back (like when door is in normal position), Right shows back one in normal position and front one in locked or to be installed position. Does this help?

Read More
Karen -
February 06, 2013
A:

here are some more pics. Right on is with the pipe pulling the hinge open and the hinge stop flipped to the "locked" position to install the door, middle is slowly releasing pipe to have hinge stop catch on the door, left picture is the pipe fully removed and the hinge stop in the "locked" position. We can still not get the door on. When putting it in, we can hear the hinge stop release, but it does it before the door is in far enough. Not ready to open the door for it to fall into the right place. I attached additional pictures cause, to me, my hinge does not look as far down (like more than 90 degrees) as the one in your picture or the video. How do we get it to be down further (if it needs to be) Thanks for help

Read More
Karen -
February 06, 2013
A:

Thanks for the additional pictures. The image below appears to show the hinge at the proper position with the retainer in place. If you can position both hinges in that manner, then you should be able to get the hinge arms to hook onto the receptacles. You can then open the door fully and position the retainers properly. It may take some patience and several attempts to get the door back onto the range. You seem to be on the right track when you position the hinges as shown in the image below.

Read More
Lyle W -
Sears Technician
February 06, 2013
A:

Thanks. Will try to figure out a way to keep it in that position. That picture was taken with pressure still on the pipe to show it going thru the steps to it's final resting position. Without pressure on the hinge, it doesn't stay in the position shown in the picture you selected. Maybe we can wedge something in the door slot to keep it open during the installation. Will let you know. Thanks for your help.

Read More
Karen -
February 06, 2013
A:

Door is back on. Wedged a plastic pc under the hinge to keep it in the more open position and it went right in!!! Couldn't have done it without you! Thanks

Read More
Karen -
February 06, 2013
A:

Thanks Karen. We are glad to hear that you were able to replace that oven door. Let us know if you ever need more assistance.

Read More
Lyle W -
Sears Technician
February 07, 2013
A:

Lyle - hoping can help me some more. After got door back on, tested the new parts. Unfortunately, did not solve the problem. When oven is cool, the light will come on when the door is opened. When the oven is warming up, the light will come on when the door is opened (and convection fan will turn off), but when it is up to temp (say 350 for 5 min), when the door is opened, neither the light nor the convection fan will turn off. We had replaced the latch assembly (part #4451896), but that does not solve the problem. The other problem is that when using the self clean mode, it gives error of F5E1, which we thought was also associated with the door latch (cause error code says F5E1 is self clean latch will not lock, but the door is locked and won't open. (last time it opened after powering off/on once cool - will try that again (hot not from cleaning this time, but due to testing the light/fan on/off). Found info on tech sheet to test the latch - solenoid (resistance = 93 ohms), latch switch continuity- unlatched = infinite, latched = 0 (or small fraction), door open/closed continuity = door closed infinity, door open 3.0 ohms. We also changed the transformer (part #9760588) because I had heard a high pitched noise when the oven was on and not when power was turned off. On another posting, it was suggested that is was probably this transformer and it was for the light, so we thought it might be related. Still hear high pitched noise when oven power on and didn't solve light on with door open problem. What else can it be???? Is there a way to test the microcomputer (part #4452894)? Where does the solenoid that keeps the door locked during cleaning (part #4452224) get it's power to stay in the locked position even when the power has been turned off??? Thanks for your help.

Read More
Karen -
February 10, 2013
See more answers
Q:

Oven won't heat Kitchenaid Dual Fuel Range KDRP407HSS4

A:

Thank you for choosing SearsPartsDirect.com and being a valued member.  I can certainly understand how frustrating it can be when your oven does not work.

 
With the control powered down, check continuity across P4-1 or P4-2 (both are L1) and the following connections:

P5-1 for Broil element
P5-3 for Bake element
P5-4 for Convection element


OVEN SHUTDOWN THERMAL FUSE
The oven shutdown thermal fuse is located at the back of the oven.
It will shut down the elements if the temperature at the back of the oven exceeds component limits.
Verify that the oven shutdown thermal fuse is okay.
To replace this thermal fuse, refer to chart at right for
correct part number. 4451442 is the replacment part number. Opening temperature is  120°C+10°C to 120°C – 0°C.Closed Circuit.

Bake Element-P5-3 (R) to Output Side of Double Line Break Relay (Red Wire)- 25Ω  to 30Ω.

Broil Element-P5-1 (BU) to Output Side of Double Line Break Relay (Red Wire)- 45Ω  to 55Ω.

Oven Temperature Sensor- P7-4 (V) to P7-5 (V)- 1080Ω  @ 21C (70F).

If all these parts check out good, then it would be your control board that needs to be repalced. 

You can also visit searpartsdirect.com for parts, diagrams, and repair information.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

Thank you for your question. Have a great day.

SAFETY NOTICE: Be sure to disconnect power to the unit before performing any repairs. If you are not comfortable with doing any voltage checks that might be recommended, please contact your local service provider for repairs. Be aware that there could be sharp edges inside the appliance that could cause cuts or other injuries to yourself or others.

Read More
Natasha12 -
Sears Technician
August 16, 2015