Model #P7 KOOLATRON Coolers

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Question and Answers

Q:

I have a Kenmore Ultra wash dishwasher that has no power on the control panel. There is power at the plug. There are no lights on. Is there an internal Fuse?

A:

I use my dishwasher very often and I know how fast dirty dishes can gather. While you are waiting for an expert answer, I did manage to find a link that will provide you with more information about your problem. I hope my link is useful.

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Joseph P. -
January 05, 2011
A:

The link provided by Joseph P. in the above response describes a dishwasher that does not have a fuse.

Your model of Kenmore dishwasher does have that thermal fuse in the console. The first image below shows a portion of the wiring diagram for this dishwasher with the thermal fuse (also called TCO -- Thermal Cut-Out) circled in red. The second image shows a parts diagram. The thermal fuse is Key 18 on that diagram. I provided a picture of the fuse in the third image. According to your description, it is likely that this thermal fuse is blown in your dishwasher. You can order a replacement fuse from the Sears PartsDirect website. The part number is 675813. Here is a direct link for that part: Thermal fuse . The 4th image shows how to replace that component. Be sure that you shut off the circuit breaker or unplug the dishwasher before accessing internal components. You can remove screws from the inner door panel to release the console.

Before starting the dishwasher, check the heating element and other components. Look for apparent damage or loose wires. After you replace the thermal fuse, be sure that you carefully check the operation of the dishwasher. A problem with the heating element or drive motor could have caused the thermal fuse to blow. It will blow again if a component failure still exists.

If you need more help, reply with additional details and we will assist you further.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

NOTE: This answer is based on Kenmore dishwasher with the full model number of 665.15819990. Use that full model number for accessing the parts diagram if necessary.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
January 08, 2011
A:

Here is the 4th image.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
January 08, 2011
A:

Lyle, the information you supplied above is excellent. I have the same symptom (no power on the control panel). There is power to the machine. It actually quit before draining. Does the same fuse work with Model 665.15895791? Thank you.

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Michael -
April 05, 2011
A:

The parts diagram for that dishwasher shows the same type of thermal fuse in the console (part number 675813). If that thermal fuse is blown, then the console will be dead. You can shut off the breaker for the dishwasher and check that fuse. I provided a link below this response that shows a video on how to test that fuse. If the fuse is "open" then it will need to be replaced. Use the harness that comes with that kit to replace the fuse (with the circuit breaker for the dishwasher shut off). If the fuse is okay, then you could have a bad electronic control board in the dishwasher. Let us know if you need more help with this problem.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
April 19, 2011
A:

I have a similar dishwasher and have replaced the themal fuse (twice) as well as door switch (once). I was having some trouble with the door switch and assumed that it was causing the problem ...Wrong!! A couple of questions for Joseph, but first of all, I commend you for providing a geat article on this issue. Question 1) Why is the wiring included with the above mentioned parts and why do you recommend repacing them? Question 2) Both times the dishwasher failed, there was a significant amount of water in the base of dishwaher. We don't use heat dry so I assume it wouldn't be the heater element. Does this suggest that the pump motor is the cause of the fuse failure?

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Robert -
May 05, 2012
A:

Hello Robert. If you have the type of dishwasher that is described by Michael then the wiring harness is included because the kit is used for several different models. Some of the models will benefit from using that wiring harness. If the thermal fuse failed, then the drain pump will have no power to pump out the water. A problem with a check valve or the drain path can also prevent the water from draining properly. Reply with additional details and the full model number of your dishwasher if you need more help. With that model number, we may be able to provide more detailed help.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
May 08, 2012
A:

Thanks for response Lyle. My third thermal fuse arrived and I plan to do the install this week. My diswasher is a Kenmore Ultra Dishwasher, Model # 665.17002 400. A local appliance technician advised me to install the wiring harness that came with the thermal fuse. I hadn't done this on the 2 previous fuse replacements and am curious why he would recommend this? Is there a history of faulty electrical connections or perhaps I misunderstood the advice (deliverd via a 3rd party)? After the last fuse install, I got about 7 wash cycles before another failure...again leaving a lots of water in the base. Note: drain path has been checked and is clear. Your advice is appreciated!

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Robert -
May 13, 2012
A:

Robert,

Lyle is taking some vacation time. I will be answering his questions for a few days.

It is unlikely that the drain pump is causing the thermal fuse to fail, but you can ohm the drain winding from the control board to make sure it is within specifications. I am including the wiring diagram below. Always unplug or de-energize electrical equipment before removing covers or attempting service. Be careful and wear appropriate hand protection when working around sharp metal parts. The connections were found to be causing excess heat. The harness that is included with the fuse kit is to ensure that the connections are good. We have always recommended that the entire fuse kit be installed.

I hope this is helpful. If I may be of further assistance please reply to this post.

Landell

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Landell -
Sears Technician
May 14, 2012
A:

I have no power and need to change something in the control panel. This issue I have is it has the buttons on top(Kenmore ultrawash 665.1389) How do I get into the control panel.

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Megan -
July 11, 2012
A:

Hello Megan. The procedure for accessing components in that door is shown in the image below. Be sure that you shut off the house circuit breaker to disconnect electrical power before accessing internal components in the dishwasher. If you need more help, let us know.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
July 12, 2012
A:

Here is the image.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
July 12, 2012
A:

Lyle or Landell - On my 665.15882 kenmore, I have the same problem as no power on the control panel. In checking the control panel board, multiple circuits were burned, in fact the ribbon underneath the plastic holder was melted, but the thermal fuse is good. It is apparent I need a new board, but I am concerned that the same fate may be realized on replacement. Your thoughts on why the board failed and my path forward?

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Bruce -
November 14, 2012
A:

Hello Bruce. It is difficult to anticipate the cause of your control board failure. You could have experienced a power surge through the electrical lines that damaged the control board. A short to the cabinet ground or a short to another circuit could have occurred in the wiring or components in the dishwasher. This would also cause the damage to the control board that you are describing. Based on your details, it is likely that you would need to replace the electronic control board, the control panel and the thermal fuse to fix this problem. Those parts would cost about $300. You would also need to check the wiring harness and the components in the dishwasher for a short or a failure. You may need to replace other components based on the results of those checks. Based on the apparent age of this dishwasher, I recommend that you consider replacing the entire dishwasher instead of trying to repair it.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
November 15, 2012
A:

I have kenmore ultra wash 665 16831792 and also showing no power to the control board. I tested the thermal fuse with a multimeter and its showing 0.00 ohm. Please advise.

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Ti ddddddddd -
June 25, 2013
A:

Ti dddddddd; If the thermal fuse is good and you're not getting any voltage measurement at the control board when measuring across the tan wire at P8 and the white wire at P7, then you should check the door switch(s). If no voltage is measured across P7 and P8 with the door shut and the door switch(s) are Okay, then the problem is likely inside the electrical junction box under the front of the dishwasher. The power source is connected inside the junction box and most likely the Black or White wire connections are burnt. The black and white wires are connected with plastic wire nuts. Turn the power supply off before removing the wire nuts. If the connections are Okay, then measure voltage across the white and black wires supplying the voltage to the dishwasher.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
June 26, 2013
A:

How do I simulate the door shut while measuring the inside panel? You mentioned to turn the power supply off before removing the wire nuts on the junction box...Is the power supply suppose to be on when measuring continuity on the control board? Why does P8 and P7 require the door switch to be closed? From the power up diagram, they seem to be on the inside of the loop.

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Ti ddddddddd -
June 26, 2013
A:

Ti ddddddd: The voltage supply will need to confirm at the junction box first since the control will not power up. I added an image below of the wiring diagram so that you can see the line voltage and the neutral supply to the control board. The control must have 120 volts when measuring across the tan wire at P8 and the white wire at P7. You can remove the control panel and still shut the door. The door switch must be closed in order to complete the circuits to the control. If you do not feel confident and safe in making live voltage checks, I recommend calling a service technician.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
June 26, 2013
A:

Traced it back to the wall outlet. Thanks for the help.

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Ti ddddddddd -
June 26, 2013
A:

Ti dddddddd; That's great news. Thanks for letting me know what you found and thank you for using Manage My Life.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
June 26, 2013
A:

I am experiencing no power on my control panel but power to the plug. everything was working just fine 2 days ago, now, new load of dishes to wash and nothing lights up. My model is 665.1392. do you think its the fuse? i'd hate to call a service tech if i can change this myself.

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LIDO -
July 02, 2013
A:

LIDO: Yes there is a thermal fuse/ bi-metal located inside the control panel. It will be mounted near the bottom of the control board. Follow the black voltage supply line where it enters the control panel and it should lead you to the bi-metal/thermal fuse. It will have two black wires attached to it. Disconnect the power supply from the dishwasher before servicing. You can disconnect and test the bi-metal for continuity with an Ohm meter. If the thermal fuse is Okay, then I would recommend calling service. I hope this is helpful. If I may be of further assistance as more details become available, please reply to this post along with the complete model number of your dishwasher.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
July 03, 2013
A:

Thanks Joey - i was reading some on line posts and i'm hoping the heating element is not bad causing the fuse to blow. The setting i use for every wash automatically goes into heat mode when drying. The model is 655.13929k012. Like i said, one minute just fine, the next, completely "dead". Hopefully, it is the fuse and it will be an easy, quick repair. I'm going to order part W10402110 from sears today - just arrive on monday or tuesday next week.

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LIDO -
July 03, 2013
A:

LIDO: If a new fuse does not resolve the issue, the electrical supply will need to be measured where it connects to the dishwasher. You may even find the electrical connections loose or burnt where the power supply connects under the front corner of the dishwasher. The black and white power supply wires are connected to the dishwasher with plastic wire nuts. Be sure to flip the house breaker off to the dishwasher before disconnecting the black and white wires.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
July 05, 2013
A:

Hi, I have a Kenmore Ultrawash model # 665.13743K601. The unit has power but does not work. I found a reset procedure in which I pressed heated dry then high temp three times then press cancel. At that point the unit went through some type of self diagnostic it seemed. At the end of this test it was still non functional. Some one said at that point that the electronic control board was bad. Does this sound right? I have found a replacement board and want to order it but I was looking for a second opinion. Also if it is indeed that board that is bad, is there anything else I should think of replacing at that time? Thank you very much in advance.

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Keith -
September 02, 2013
A:

Keith; I would test the control panel button operation first using the information in the images I added below. If all the buttons test Okay, then I would replace the control board. Disconnect the dishwasher from the power source before servicing. Check the things I have covered here and if I may be of further assistance as more details become available, please reply to this post.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
September 03, 2013
A:

Forgive me for being new with this but how exactly would I go about testing the control panel operation? Thanks.

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Keith -
September 03, 2013
A:

Keith: You will have to have an Ohm meter to test the key pad operation using the procedure in the second image I provided in my first response under the heading " Checking Keypad Operation" You have to use the "Keyswitch resistance check table" to locate the two pins at the end of flat ribbon connector which links the control panel to the control board. The Ohm meter has red (positive) and black (negative) leads. You place the two Ohm meter leads across the two designated pins for that specific button while pushing the button. If the button/switch is making contact when pushed, the Ohm meter will register continuity/resistance. If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired by a Sears technician. You can schedule service Sears Home Services by calling 1-800-4-MY-HOME. If you attempt checking the keypad, disconnect the power supply from the dishwasher before removing the control panel.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
September 04, 2013
A:

I have a Kenmore model 587,16252402 dishwasher with the same problems as listed above. Is that same TCO used in my model?

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Jim -
October 31, 2013
A:

Jim: Your model dishwasher does not have a thermal fuse. The voltage supply will need to be checked at the control and door switches. Also check the voltage supply under the front of the dishwasher inside the electrical junction box. I added an image below of the wiring diagram. The voltage should be measured across the P3-7 and P1 and P3-6 and P3-7 while the door switches are closed. If voltage (120) is measured, I suspect a failed control board. You will likely find a bad wire connection in the electrical junction box under the front of the dishwasher.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
October 31, 2013
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Q:

Kitchenaid Oven KEBC177KBL0 - how do you put the oven door back on? (more detail than pg 22 in the use and care guide please)

A:

Having the door probably installed is very important. I did some research on your model number but was not able to find a solution for getting the door back on. Your expert will be able to help answer your question. It may take two business days. I do hope that everything works out on the oven.

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Marc -
February 03, 2013
A:

That notch that is circled in green on the first image below should fit into the hinge receptacle on the body of the oven and you should then be able to open the oven fully. It appears that the hinge stop did not prevent the hinge from retracting to the closed position. The hinge will normally be sticking out at an angle as shown in the photographs that I posted in the second image. Those photographs show a similar hinge system that uses the same procedure for removing and replacing the oven door. You will need to pull the hinges out as shown in this video to replace the door: Video: How to Reinstall Your Oven Door . That should help you solve the problem. If you need more help, let us know.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
February 05, 2013
A:

Here are the images.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
February 05, 2013
A:

Lyle - thanks. Here is an update. used the pipe to move the hinge to flip the hinge stop. The picture above is with the hinge stop already in place. I've attached 3 pictures. Left on is with the hinge stop in place. middle is with hinge stop flipped back (like when door is in normal position), Right shows back one in normal position and front one in locked or to be installed position. Does this help?

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Karen -
February 06, 2013
A:

here are some more pics. Right on is with the pipe pulling the hinge open and the hinge stop flipped to the "locked" position to install the door, middle is slowly releasing pipe to have hinge stop catch on the door, left picture is the pipe fully removed and the hinge stop in the "locked" position. We can still not get the door on. When putting it in, we can hear the hinge stop release, but it does it before the door is in far enough. Not ready to open the door for it to fall into the right place. I attached additional pictures cause, to me, my hinge does not look as far down (like more than 90 degrees) as the one in your picture or the video. How do we get it to be down further (if it needs to be) Thanks for help

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Karen -
February 06, 2013
A:

Thanks for the additional pictures. The image below appears to show the hinge at the proper position with the retainer in place. If you can position both hinges in that manner, then you should be able to get the hinge arms to hook onto the receptacles. You can then open the door fully and position the retainers properly. It may take some patience and several attempts to get the door back onto the range. You seem to be on the right track when you position the hinges as shown in the image below.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
February 06, 2013
A:

Thanks. Will try to figure out a way to keep it in that position. That picture was taken with pressure still on the pipe to show it going thru the steps to it's final resting position. Without pressure on the hinge, it doesn't stay in the position shown in the picture you selected. Maybe we can wedge something in the door slot to keep it open during the installation. Will let you know. Thanks for your help.

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Karen -
February 06, 2013
A:

Door is back on. Wedged a plastic pc under the hinge to keep it in the more open position and it went right in!!! Couldn't have done it without you! Thanks

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Karen -
February 06, 2013
A:

Thanks Karen. We are glad to hear that you were able to replace that oven door. Let us know if you ever need more assistance.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
February 07, 2013
A:

Lyle - hoping can help me some more. After got door back on, tested the new parts. Unfortunately, did not solve the problem. When oven is cool, the light will come on when the door is opened. When the oven is warming up, the light will come on when the door is opened (and convection fan will turn off), but when it is up to temp (say 350 for 5 min), when the door is opened, neither the light nor the convection fan will turn off. We had replaced the latch assembly (part #4451896), but that does not solve the problem. The other problem is that when using the self clean mode, it gives error of F5E1, which we thought was also associated with the door latch (cause error code says F5E1 is self clean latch will not lock, but the door is locked and won't open. (last time it opened after powering off/on once cool - will try that again (hot not from cleaning this time, but due to testing the light/fan on/off). Found info on tech sheet to test the latch - solenoid (resistance = 93 ohms), latch switch continuity- unlatched = infinite, latched = 0 (or small fraction), door open/closed continuity = door closed infinity, door open 3.0 ohms. We also changed the transformer (part #9760588) because I had heard a high pitched noise when the oven was on and not when power was turned off. On another posting, it was suggested that is was probably this transformer and it was for the light, so we thought it might be related. Still hear high pitched noise when oven power on and didn't solve light on with door open problem. What else can it be???? Is there a way to test the microcomputer (part #4452894)? Where does the solenoid that keeps the door locked during cleaning (part #4452224) get it's power to stay in the locked position even when the power has been turned off??? Thanks for your help.

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Karen -
February 10, 2013
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Q:

Oven won't heat Kitchenaid Dual Fuel Range KDRP407HSS4

A:

Thank you for choosing SearsPartsDirect.com and being a valued member.  I can certainly understand how frustrating it can be when your oven does not work.

 
With the control powered down, check continuity across P4-1 or P4-2 (both are L1) and the following connections:

P5-1 for Broil element
P5-3 for Bake element
P5-4 for Convection element


OVEN SHUTDOWN THERMAL FUSE
The oven shutdown thermal fuse is located at the back of the oven.
It will shut down the elements if the temperature at the back of the oven exceeds component limits.
Verify that the oven shutdown thermal fuse is okay.
To replace this thermal fuse, refer to chart at right for
correct part number. 4451442 is the replacment part number. Opening temperature is  120°C+10°C to 120°C – 0°C.Closed Circuit.

Bake Element-P5-3 (R) to Output Side of Double Line Break Relay (Red Wire)- 25Ω  to 30Ω.

Broil Element-P5-1 (BU) to Output Side of Double Line Break Relay (Red Wire)- 45Ω  to 55Ω.

Oven Temperature Sensor- P7-4 (V) to P7-5 (V)- 1080Ω  @ 21C (70F).

If all these parts check out good, then it would be your control board that needs to be repalced. 

You can also visit searpartsdirect.com for parts, diagrams, and repair information.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

Thank you for your question. Have a great day.

SAFETY NOTICE: Be sure to disconnect power to the unit before performing any repairs. If you are not comfortable with doing any voltage checks that might be recommended, please contact your local service provider for repairs. Be aware that there could be sharp edges inside the appliance that could cause cuts or other injuries to yourself or others.

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Natasha12 -
Sears Technician
August 16, 2015