Model #MGR5875QDS MAYTAG Free Standing, Gas

  • Control Panel/top Assembly
    3 Results
  • Cabinet
    3 Results
  • Cavity
    3 Results
  • Gas Controls
    3 Results
  • Door/drawer (stl)
    3 Results
  • Supplemental Information
    3 Results
  • Wiring Information
    3 Results
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Question and Answers

Q:

Maytag Oven MGR5875QDS Display Not Functioning

A:

Thank you for your question and I understand your concern.

The power surge followed by the low voltage has most likely caused the electronic oven control/clock assembly to fail.

If the oven control/clock assembly is getting the proper voltage supply when measured across pins 6 and 3 at the P2 connector (white connector with 2 wires) on the oven control board, the oven control/clock assembly will need to be replaced.  NOTE: I do not recommend making any voltage measurements unless you have experience and feel safe and confident in doing so; otherwise I strongly recommend calling a service technician to diagnose and repair your range. There is also a slight possibility the touch panel/control panel may have been damaged too. I highly recommend calling a service technician to diagnose and repair your Maytag gas range.

I added a couple of image below to reference. This is intended for the service technician.

 If you get to the point where you need to have a service technician diagnose and repair this failure, you can schedule service through this link: Sears Home Services.

 

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
September 27, 2013
Q:

Maytag Gas Range, Oven gets too hot

A:

Thank you for your question and I understand your concern.

The oven temperatures are controlled by the clock/electronic oven control. The temperature is monitored by the oven temperature sensor probe located inside the oven cavity. The oven sensor changes Ohm resistance with the temperature which is connected to and monitored by the electronic oven control/clock assembly. If the oven temperature sensor is faulty or has bad or loose connection, it could cause the oven temperature to be off. The first thing to do in diagnosing the issue is to disconnect the oven temperature sensor and measuring the Ohm resistance with an Ohm meter.  At room temperature (80 degrees), the Ohm resistance of the oven temperature sensor should measure approximately 1100 Ohms of resistance.

If the oven sensor probe measure 1100 Ohms, check the connections of the oven sensor where it connects to the electronic oven control. I would disconnect the P1 connector from the oven control and measure the Ohm resistance across the two White wires. If the Ohm resistance is approximately 1100 Ohms, the electronic oven control is most likely faulty.

The oven temperatures can be calibrated using the electronic oven control/clock but it cannot be adjusted but 35 degrees cooler or hotter.

I added a link to the Use and Care Manual  and on page 15 it will have the instructions for calibrating the oven temperatures.  

Check the things I have covered here and if I may be of further assistance as more details become available, please reply to this post.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
August 19, 2013
A:

Just checked the Oven Temp Sensor and got a reading of 1083 ohms. So the sensor is fine and the control needs to be replaced, correct?

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fillmore85 -
August 20, 2013
A:

If you have to replace the clock/controller/circuit board assembly, sometimes they are no longer made by the manufacturer or are very expensive. Today I just discovered that there are several places that will repair your your assembly for a very reasonable price. Google circuit board repair or appliance clock repair, etc. My Maytag range CRG9700CAE will overhear by 50 degrees during preheat but then settles back to correct temp (more or less) after about 10 minutes. Any ideas why?

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Richard -
August 20, 2013
A:

Fillmore85; Based on the Ohm resistance of the oven temperature sensor probe, I would have to agree that the oven control will need to be replaced.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
August 21, 2013
A:

Richard; The symptom you describe is a very strange thing to happen. The oven control board/clock assembly controls the oven operation along with the oven temperature sensor, igniter and gas valve. Whenever the control calls for heat, the igniter comes on and then once the igniter pulls enough current, the gas valve opens. If the oven is cooking properly after the pre-heat, I would not replace any parts and I would just continue to wait 10 minutes after pre-heat and then place the item in the oven.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
August 21, 2013
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Q:

maytag MGR5875QDS pops breaker when lighting stove MGR5875QDS Maytag Maytag cooking

A:

Having this happen to our appliances or home can get anyone scared. While you are waiting on an expert to answer your question, I suggest you set service with a Sears technician so they can come out and see whats going on with your Stove. I have provided the link below. Hope this helps!

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Dezeray -
January 29, 2013
A:

I don't see a link but thanks! UPDATED troubleshooting. I have removed the spark module and capped the hot lead. Now I can operate the stove by turning on the gas and lighting the burner with a grill lighter. SO, I guess that tells me my problem is somewhere from the module south of it's position in the wiring diagram but I'm waiting to see if anyone else has had this happen before and if it's possible one of the ignitor leads, ignitors or possibly the switches are a more common problem for one reason or another. The prior owner was a SLOB so I'm wondering if shortin issues are common on the burner head/ignitor. Im just happy that I can still use the unit to make our SUper Bowl Buffalo Wings until I can get a permanent repair.

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Jason -
January 29, 2013
A:

Thank you for your question and I understand your concern.

I was not able to make out what the fault code was. The spell check garbled the fault code. This is how it came out "Display shows code "03.0" then displays time".

Since it sparked and flashed, it should be easy to find the shorted wire or component by looking for a darkened or burnt wire or wire connection. Based on the symptom, it sounds like a short in the spark ignition circuit for the service burners.

I would begin looking for a burnt wire or wire connection by disconnecting the power supply and then removing the panel from behind the console and rear panel.

Front Control Panel Removal:

  1. Open or remove oven door from unit.
  2. Remove control knobs from gas valves, by pulling.
  3. Remove screws securing front control panel, located on the bottom edge of the front control panel.
  4. Remove control panel by sliding one way or the other and pulling away from the unit.
  5. Reverse procedure to reassemble.

To remove the Maintop Assembly:

  1. Turn power off to unit.
  2. Remove front control panel, see "Front Control Panel" procedure.
  3. Remove grates and caps.
  4. Remove screws securing top surface burner to maintop.
  5. Lift surface burner off.
  6. Raise the front edge of the maintop and pull forward.
  7. Lift maintop assembly from the oven chassis.
  8. Reverse procedure to reinstall maintop assembly.

To remove the Control Panel:

  1. Remove maintop assembly, see "Maintop Assembly" procedure, steps 1 through 7.
  2. Remove screws securing control panel heat shield.
  3. Remove screws securing bottom outside edges of the control panel.
  4. Pull unit out from the wall far enough to allow the back outside screws to be loosened.
  5. Loosen the back outside screws securing control panel to backguard.
  6. Grasp front lower outside edges of the control panel and push inward on the outside edges of the backguard to release the control panel front. NOTE: Front edges of the control panel are difficult to release from backguard.
  7. Once the control panel bottom edges are free, pull control panel forward and raise the control panel upward to release screws securing top back edges and allow control panel to tip forward.
  8. Reverse procedure to reinstall control panel.

I hope this is helpful. If I may be of further assistance as more details become available, please reply to this post.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
January 30, 2013
A:

Update.... Problem located. A short in the ignition switch harness. Just wanted to give you guys the solution.

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Jason -
January 30, 2013
A:

Jason; Just as I suspected. Thank you for letting me know. Have a great day.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
January 30, 2013
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