Model #MGR5755ADQ MAYTAG Free Standing, Gas

  • Control Panel
    3 Results
  • Top Assembly
    3 Results
  • Gas Controls
    3 Results
  • Body
    3 Results
  • Oven/base
    3 Results
  • Door/drawer
    3 Results
  • Wiring Information
    3 Results
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Question and Answers

Q:

What does "F3" fault code mean and how to repair it?

A:

The "F3" fault code is indicating an oven temperature sensor failure or a temperature sensor circuit failure. The oven temperature sensor could be open or shorted. Test the sensor for proper ohm value, frayed or pinch wiring, or connector damage. The oven temperature sensor probe can be found sticking out from the rear wall inside the oven cavity. It will need to be disconnected and tested with an ohm meter. I added a chart in the image below of the resistances of the oven sensor at specific temperatures. At normal ambient room temperature, the oven temperature sensor should have a resistance value of 1050-1100 ohms. See image below. The oven temperature sensor is part #12001655. I added a link to Sears Parts Direct with the oven sensor looked up for you. Click on "Oven sensor" to open link.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
November 09, 2009
Q:

Why wont the ignitor on my Maytag model MGR5755ADQ stove quit clicking after 3 days?

A:

Cleaning it should not have caused this problem but a constant clicking is most likely caused by a bad top control switch. If the switch got wet it could create a closed circuit.

The first image shows how to raise the top to check the switches.

The 2nd image is the wiring diagram for your stove and you can see the wiring for the top switches. If one has a closed circuit it will cause the range to spark.

You will need a burner wrench to remove the top panel. See the third image for a picture of the wrench. The wrench is no longer available and you can try an oil filter wrench or a rubber gripper to try and release it.

Most likely one of the switches has failed and will have to be replaced.

The switch should have dried out by now and with the top up you could remove the wires to each switch one at a time to identify the switch causing this problem.

There are two different switches depending upon your serial number.

Considering that the part you need to remove the burners is not available and there is a chance to order the wrong switch I suggest a technician do this job and let the worry be his.

I hope this information helps to resolve this issue but submit another question with any additional details for further assistance.

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Fred M -
Sears Technician
September 23, 2009

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