Model #MDG9806AWW MAYTAG Residential Dryer

  • Control Panel
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  • Cabinet
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  • Door
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  • Cabinet-rear
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  • Tumbler
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  • Gas Valve
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  • Motor Drive
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Question and Answers

Q:

How to troubleshoot Maytag gas clothes dryer Model MDG9806AWW?

A:

Dryers are appliances we use daily so when it starts to have issues it can be really frustrating. While you are waiting on an expert to answer your question, I suggest you set service with a Sears technician so they can fix this for you click here. Have a nice day!

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Dezeray S -
July 02, 2013
A:

Thanks for contacting manage my life about your dryer model MDG9806AWW; sorry you are having a problem I will be glad to assist you with this issue. Based on the description of the problem I believe that the issue may not be the dryer but instead you're venting. If the dryer heats but clothes do not dry, the problem almost all the time is poor air flow. You can do a simple test to determine if your vent is restricted.   Pull the dryer away from the wall  and remove the vent hose from the back of the dryer, now set the dryer on high heat add a load of clothes and allow normal dry time. (Be prepared to deal with heat and lint entering the room) If the clothes do dry properly, then the vent is the issue not the dryer. Clean the vent hose, vent pipe all the way to the outside of the home. If you cannot access to clean call for help at 1_800-469-4663 and ask for duct cleaning in your area. You description is a classic indication of a venting issue so give this a try. If you need additional help reply with more details and I will be happy to respond. If you get to the point where you need to have a service technician diagnose and repair this failure, you can schedule service through this link: Sears Home Services. Ron H.

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Ron H -
Sears Technician
July 03, 2013
A:

Thaks for the reply. I have checked the vent and cleaned it thoroughly, even though it was fairly clean to start. Wen the dryer starts I can hear the gas solenoid operate and sometimes I hear the flame ignite, sometimes it does not and times out. Even when it ignites, the burner will operate for a short time, generating heat, but then will shut off and start the ignition process again. Sometimes it holds, but mostly it cycles and does not stay on long enough to dry the cloths. My fear is that since I do not know which part is malfunctioning, I may fix one problem and the unit will fail soon after. The dryer is 15 plus years old.

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William -
July 03, 2013
A:

Hello William thanks for your reply. I am still concerned about air flow based on your description. If you have not ran the dryer with the vent hose disconnected I would suggest doing so before any further service. The burner assembly has three main components the igniter, the valve and solenoids and a flame sensor. On the flame duct is a high limit thermostat that cuts the flame off if there is poor air flow (venting issue). Because the flame does come on I would not suspect the igniter unless there is connection issue which you should check for. Normally the solenoids on the valve fail completely and will not open at all so I don�t suspect they are causing the issue you describe. Last is the sensor that will cut the flame off if it does not sense a flame within a few seconds of the valve being activated? If it is defective it could cause the on/off you describe. Use your volt/ohm meter to test these components when the flame goes off to soon (not during regular cycling that takes place when the temperature selected is reached) _Always disconnect power supply before servicing the appliance and when testing live voltage be sure to wear proper safety equipment (gloves and eye protection) also be aware of sharp metals on product_ There is a wiring diagram in the console near the timer that will show the wiring to these components. I hope this helps, if you need additional help reply with added details and I will respond. Ron H.

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Ron H -
Sears Technician
July 03, 2013
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Q:

dryer is makeing a noise

A:

Diagnosing an appliance can be difficult. While you wait for the expert answer, a suggestion I have is to check the troubleshooting guide in the owner's manual. I find mine always helps. I also attached the link to your dryer model at Sears Parts Direct. When you know what parts are needed, it is very easy to order them online. Hope this helps!

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Barbara H. -
August 19, 2010
A:

On something like this I recommend removing the front panel so you can get a better idea where the source of the noise is coming from. I have provided you with step by step instructions on how to access the inside cabinet area. Once you have a clear view of all of the components you should be able to locate the problem. First; disconnect power to the dryer.

The idler bracket could be rubbing against the drum belt making the noise. The servicer can bend the idler bracket away from the motor mount to eliminate the noise. To address this, production changed the design of the idler bracket and the orientation of the tension spring, to pull the idler bracket away from the drum belt. This was done at the following series changes: Model No. Series # MDE9700 #15 MDG9700 #16 MDE6700 #12 MDG6700 #12 NOTE: The new and old idler brackets and tension springs are not interchangeable with prior series dryers.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

SAFETY NOTICE: Be sure to disconnect power to the appliance before performing any repairs. If you are not comfortable with doing any voltage checks that might be recommended, please contact your local service provider for repairs. Be aware that there could be sharp edges inside the appliance that could cause cuts or other injuries to yourself or others.

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biker dave -
Sears Technician
August 20, 2010
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Q:

Why is my Maytag dryer running but not heating?

A:

Something like this is going to require removing the front panel of the dryer & making some voltage checks with a volt meter. If you do not see the igniter coming on I recommend checking it first. With the dryer running you should have 120 volts to the igniter. If you do & the igniter is not coming on you will need to replace the igniter. If you do not read 120volts, other related components will need checked. I recommend checking the radiant sensor second. The Radiant sensor, high limit thermostat & operating thermostat should all read closed continuity. Other possibilities; motor switch, temp switch & timer.

Please see the images provided below for information on accessing the front panel & the heating circuit diagram details.

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biker dave -
Sears Technician
May 27, 2009

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