Model #LA2 AMANA Air-conditioner/heat pump(outside unit)

  • (lu2) (lu3) (lu4) (lu5) (lh2/3u) (lh4/5u)
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  • (la2) (la2a) (la3) (la3a) (la4) (la4a) (la5) (lah5a) (lh2/3a) (lh4/5a) (lh4.5a)
    3 Results
  • A Coil (la2) (la2a) (la3) (la3a) (la4) (la4a) (la5) (lah5a) (lh2/3a) (lh4/5a) (lh4.5a)
    3 Results
  • (rf2/3) (rf4/5)
    3 Results
  • (lb2/3) (lb2/3a) (lb4/5) (lb4/5a)
    3 Results
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Question and Answers

Q:

Kenmore Model 795 refrigerator suddenly turned off.

A:

I know it can be very frustrating to have an appliance you depend on break down, especially your refrigerator. Managemylife.com is always a great resource to find answers to just about anything. I would suggest that you provide the complete model # and any other information that you think may help your expert respond with the best possible response. Just click on reply below and then add your information. I have attached a link to searshomeservices.com if you decide to have a qualified technician assist you.

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James -
February 11, 2011
A:

Thanks, Jim. Here's the Model #: 795.78312.801

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Patrick -
February 11, 2011
A:

I'm sorry you are having this problem. The information you have received is good but this appears to be a slightly different type of problem. Based on the information listed, this would appear to be a main board problem. First, disconnect power from the refrigerator for 30 seconds and then reconnect it. This will reset the board. If it still won't come on, the board # EBR41531305 will need to be replaced. It's available at SearsPartsDirect . I hope this will help you. If you would like more assistance, any additional details will be helpful and I will be glad to assist you further.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
February 12, 2011
A:

Errrr So we've own this refrigerator now for 5 years and WHA-LA; 2nd time it QUIT!!!!!!!!!!!!! First time they said a recall. Somehow I have a feeling it is not gonna be the case this time. Why 2 times already in 5 years = LEMON !!!!!!!!!! I highly suggest people NOT to purchase....I have read many reviews on this refrigerator. VERY DISSAPOINTED! They SURE don't make them like they use to!

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Tracie -
March 09, 2014
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Q:

I need to assure the replacement main board is the right one for this unit. GSS25JFMBWW Ge Refrigerator m series

A:

Thank you for your question.  I am sorry for the problem with your GE GSS25JFMBWW Refrigerator.  From the description you give I suspect you will need to cut the wire.  The instructions for the control are in the image below.  Only certain models had the wire cut.  You will need to confirm the serial number of the unit you have.   I hope this helps.  You can reply with any additional details for further assistance. 

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Fred M -
Sears Technician
September 23, 2013
A:

Thank you for the reply. while I was waiting for a reply I went ahead and cut the wire and reinstalled the new main board , for a second time, although I was never able to verify that my refrigerator was one that needs to have the wire cut according to the information provided on Pub. No. 31-45417 in step 2 of the installation instructions that came with the new main board. At this point it still does not work. The note in the 2nd step says cut the wire for all bottom freezer models, which mine is a side by side. Then it gives a list of serial number prefixes but it calls them "ENCODER" model serial number prefixes. not refrigerator serial number prefix's. I looked for eprom numbers and such on the original main board but no where did I find any of the 3 digit prefixes listed and non of them preceed my serial number for the refrigerator which is LA205671. The closest prefix listed on the instructions is LF2. I triple checked the number on the fridge and its a very clearly typed LA2. Could there be a typo somewhere I don't know. If It was required for my model and I did not do it the first time could I have damaged this new board by powering it up with the wire not cut? There was no warning to that effect. also the instructions indicate that a molded plug or jumper may be used and the picture shows each connecting Pin #1 with its primary conductor to point number 2 via the jumper or molded plug. My refrigerator has no wire at all going to pin #1 of connector J1. My connector is wired in the following 9 point configuration "b" small case indicating blank and large case letters indicating dominant wire color if we need to get more specific I can. But here it is: b,W,W,B,Bw,Bw,b,b,Bw . The picture in the instructions provided has blank positions for position 2 with the its wire cut, then 6,7,8. As you can see from my configuration code: 1, 7, and 8 were my original blank positions. Now the previously white wire with a yellow marker band on it is cut from point 2.

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Timothy -
September 23, 2013
A:

The serial number range is the serial number for the refrigerator and not the board. Check the serial number of the refrigerator and see if it matches one on the instruction sheet.

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Fred M -
Sears Technician
September 24, 2013
A:

It does not

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Timothy -
September 24, 2013
A:

By that logic then I hooked it all up right the first time and it did not work. Also the compressor that still runs when I hook up the old board again does not operate when connected to the new board. Makes me think I have a new board that is not engineered properly to replace my old board or I don't have the proper instructions for how this board is to be connected when its used to replace mine. Unless you have a solution at this point for determining what needs to be done I guess I will have to have one of sears technicians come do the repair. can they repair the ice dispenser door on the same visit?

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Timothy -
September 24, 2013
A:

The board and instructions should work. Does the original control board have a part number on it?

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Fred M -
Sears Technician
September 25, 2013
A:

There are two tags on the circuit board itself. One is 200D2260G005 . The other has a 1901 SJ then a registered trademark emblem of some sort and finally a WKKT. Also in the top right hand corner beside the 9pin of the J1 connection there is printed in the board. GE Appliances EBX1005G01 Rev L and below that GEA151 Front-01. Does that help identify it?

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Timothy -
September 27, 2013
A:

The part number for the main control board is WR55X10552. The original control board is part number WR55X10083. I have no way to cross over the other numbers you see on the control. if this is not a bottom freezer and the serial numbers on the board instruction sheet do not match then The control should have worked without any modification. If both the compressor and fan do not work with the new control then the control itself may be the problem. From the description you give the compressor will run with the old control in place. I believe the next step will require a meter to check voltage from the main control. Check for a red and a whire wire. Does the condenser fan work? The diagram below may be helpful to you.

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Fred M -
Sears Technician
September 30, 2013
A:

The condeser fan is the one thing that was not working originally. I replaced the fan it still does not work. I had no voltage going to it so I changed the board too, thinking there was a control problem. With the new board installed the compressor will not work but it does fine if I put the old board back in service. Nothing I have done so far has made the condenser fan work

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Timothy -
September 30, 2013
A:

Thanks for your help. I will call a field technician in at this point. I knew I didn't have power to the condenser fan but I thought a new board would fix that. It seems you concur that it should have. I know I have power to the board. as far as trying to diagnose the board itself. I've done such in a pinch when a board is discontinued, but my mentors used to laugh at me for wasting my valuable time.

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Timothy -
September 30, 2013
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