Model #KSCS25FKSS01 KITCHENAID Side-by-Side Refrigerator

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Question and Answers

Q:

Severed wire harness. No power to ice or water dispenser actuators. KSCS25FKSS01 Kitchenaid Counter depth refrigerator

A:

Thank you for your question. I know it can be disappointing when the dispenser stops working. The cover I suspect you are referring to is the housing, which is not serviceable and cannot be removed. Now, it's very rare that this harness needs to be replaced. Replacing the harness in this door can be quite difficult and in most cases, it's not replaceable. I would strongly recommend having a technician make this type of repair. First, I suggest checking to see if the harness comes out in the dispenser, in the same place as the water tube. If it doesn't, then it won't be replaceable. If it does, the water tube will need to be removed first. To remove the tube, close the water supply valve and then disconnect the water tube at the connection under the door (be prepared to catch some water). Now, disconnect the tube inside the dispenser and the tube can be pulled up through the door. Now, disconnect the wires under the door and connect a small line like on a weed eater to the wires. Make sure the connection is very tight and then pull the wire harness up through the door. Now, you can connect the new harness to the line and pull it back down through the door. Be sure to make a note of where the wires are connected. I hope this will help you. If you would like more assistance, reply to this thread and I will assist you further. If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services.  _Safety Notice_: Be sure to disconnect the appliance before performing any troubleshooting procedures. If you are not comfortable with doing any voltage checks or repairs that might be recommended, please contact a local service provider for repairs. Be aware that there could be sharp edges inside the appliance that could cause cuts or other injuries to yourself or others.  

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
September 18, 2013
A:

I see this post is over a year old. I thought I'd add my two cents if someone out there has the same issue. Unfortunately, there is not an easy fix for this model fridge. The plastic housing which contains the switches and wiring for the ice and water dispenser is not removable. It is glued and foamed into the freezer door. There is no way to access behind the in door plastic housing. You can get to the connectors to test them with an ohm meter, or visualize the wiring. If you check at the base of the door, next to the hinge, you'll see the wires coming out into a connector that you can check for continuity. Upon further visual inspection, I found the wires cut as was described here (yep, poor design). This condition is kind of hard to see as the wires are in a "protective" jacket. The "easiest" fix is likely to remove the freezer door, solder, protect with heat shrink tubing and place back in the jacket. Bummer, as I have had the fridge for 10+ years and it's been a good machine other than this issue. The ice, water and light from the freezer door quit working years ago. I just decided to see what the cause and fix might be. Best of luck!

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Jeff -
October 28, 2014
A:

Just to clarify, the wire harness runs in the door, from the ice/water/light control module in the door to the base of the freezer door , exiting by the hinge. I'm fairly certain that the wire harness is encased in foam in the door. You cannot pull a new harness through. There is not a channel or raceway for the wire harness. If you have enough slack at the base you may be able to solder the cut wires back together, cover and secure them again to get it working. Yep, a bummer. Poor design.

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Jeff -
October 29, 2014
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Q:

Crushed/Cubed Ice Switch KSCS25FKSS01 Kitchenaid Counter depth refrigerator

A:

Thanks for your question- we see that no one from the community responded.  If you still require assistance on this topic, please resubmit your question with any updated information and we will have one of our experts take a look.  Also, we have updated our site to include information regarding common repairs and diagnosis, which can be found here: www.searspartsdirect.com/repair-help.html.  If you are looking for your owner’s manual, it can be found here: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/user-manuals.  Thanks for visiting SearsPartsDirect.com.

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Natasha12 -
Sears Technician
May 09, 2014
Q:

Is there an in-line fuse that feeds power to the Ice and Water dispenser panel on my Kitchen Aid Model #KSCS25FKSS01

A:

There is not a fuse in the circuit that powers the dispenser panel. The wiring diagram for your refrigerator is shown below with the circuit that powers the dispenser highlighted in red. There is a light switch and a lock-out switch in the circuit. One of these switches or the wiring must be bad if the dispenser is not getting power.

Be sure that you unplug the refrigerator to disconnect electrical power when accessing the checking these switches and the wiring.

This information should help you determine the cause of your dispenser failure. If you need more help, resubmit your question with additional details.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
April 23, 2010
A:

OK - follow up after everything above. I ordered Part #14 [switches] and I ordered two, but it turns out I needed 4 because there's 2 switches on each side [ice dispenser and water]. Anyway, I changed both switches on the water-side because it was the first to "burn-out" before the ice. I replaced both swithces; the Front Panel with relays [Part #23]; and the light. STILL NO POWER TO THE DOOR CONTROLS AT ALL. No light, water, ice, electrical "sounds", etc. My next thought was to order 2-more switches and replace the ice maker side - but nothing worked on the water side. Essentially - there is NO ELECTRICAL response on the door panel controls at all? Wiring harness is fine and operational. What do I do now? Frustrated in Atlanta after $400 of expense and tireless effort. Thank you very much, in advance, for your consideration, Ben.

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Ben -
May 06, 2010
A:

I have the exact same issue. My power went out in my house for a couple of days, when it came back on the in door ice dipenser, light and water do not work.

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John -
June 29, 2013
A:

That is not good you are having the same issue. Have you tried the steps the Expert provided?

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Natasha12 -
Sears Technician
August 16, 2013
A:

Same problem here. Ice dispenser, water dispenser and light stopped working / receiving power (not at the same time, first went the ice dispenser and now the light and water dispenser). I checked the freezer door wire harness (part #2187667) with multimeter. Only one out of the five wires show continuity (pink), which indicates that the other four are severed. The four switches (part# 2162361) are fine, checked with the multimeter. I checked the inside liner of the freezer door under the rubber seal(part# 2221304).. there are no screws.. the white plastic inner liner does not look like it can be removed. The plastic front cover housing (the one with the press plates for water and ice dispenser) appears to be glued into the front door despite having four screws. I have noticed I can still get the wire harness (part# 2187667), but how do I get into the freezer door to replace the wire harness? The freezer door appears to be "foamed in" without an access to the insides. You used to sell the freezer door (part# 2214484S) for $692, which no longer seem available. It seems ridiculous to spend $700 for new door just to replace four severed wires inside. What are my options here? How can I fix this?

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Paul -
September 16, 2013
A:

Chick the wires located at the lower left freezer door hinge. Mine were cut by the abrasion caused by opening and closing the door. You may be lucky enough to reconnect the wires. I would recommend that you solder the wires together and coat with liquid electric plastic coating. It may be necessary to splice extra length of same size wire if you do not have adequate room to splice directly to each cut wire. We should form a class action against KitchenAid for this factory defect.

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THOMAS -
February 23, 2014
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