Model #KEBC177KBL0 KITCHENAID Built-In Oven, Electric

  • Oven/literature
    3 Results
  • Control Panel
    3 Results
  • Oven Door
    3 Results
  • Internal Oven
    3 Results
  • Top Venting
    3 Results
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Question and Answers

Q:

Kitchenaid Oven KEBC177KBL0 - how do you put the oven door back on? (more detail than pg 22 in the use and care guide please)

A:

Having the door probably installed is very important. I did some research on your model number but was not able to find a solution for getting the door back on. Your expert will be able to help answer your question. It may take two business days. I do hope that everything works out on the oven.

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Marc -
February 03, 2013
A:

That notch that is circled in green on the first image below should fit into the hinge receptacle on the body of the oven and you should then be able to open the oven fully. It appears that the hinge stop did not prevent the hinge from retracting to the closed position. The hinge will normally be sticking out at an angle as shown in the photographs that I posted in the second image. Those photographs show a similar hinge system that uses the same procedure for removing and replacing the oven door. You will need to pull the hinges out as shown in this video to replace the door: Video: How to Reinstall Your Oven Door . That should help you solve the problem. If you need more help, let us know.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
February 05, 2013
A:

Here are the images.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
February 05, 2013
A:

Lyle - thanks. Here is an update. used the pipe to move the hinge to flip the hinge stop. The picture above is with the hinge stop already in place. I've attached 3 pictures. Left on is with the hinge stop in place. middle is with hinge stop flipped back (like when door is in normal position), Right shows back one in normal position and front one in locked or to be installed position. Does this help?

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Karen -
February 06, 2013
A:

here are some more pics. Right on is with the pipe pulling the hinge open and the hinge stop flipped to the "locked" position to install the door, middle is slowly releasing pipe to have hinge stop catch on the door, left picture is the pipe fully removed and the hinge stop in the "locked" position. We can still not get the door on. When putting it in, we can hear the hinge stop release, but it does it before the door is in far enough. Not ready to open the door for it to fall into the right place. I attached additional pictures cause, to me, my hinge does not look as far down (like more than 90 degrees) as the one in your picture or the video. How do we get it to be down further (if it needs to be) Thanks for help

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Karen -
February 06, 2013
A:

Thanks for the additional pictures. The image below appears to show the hinge at the proper position with the retainer in place. If you can position both hinges in that manner, then you should be able to get the hinge arms to hook onto the receptacles. You can then open the door fully and position the retainers properly. It may take some patience and several attempts to get the door back onto the range. You seem to be on the right track when you position the hinges as shown in the image below.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
February 06, 2013
A:

Thanks. Will try to figure out a way to keep it in that position. That picture was taken with pressure still on the pipe to show it going thru the steps to it's final resting position. Without pressure on the hinge, it doesn't stay in the position shown in the picture you selected. Maybe we can wedge something in the door slot to keep it open during the installation. Will let you know. Thanks for your help.

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Karen -
February 06, 2013
A:

Door is back on. Wedged a plastic pc under the hinge to keep it in the more open position and it went right in!!! Couldn't have done it without you! Thanks

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Karen -
February 06, 2013
A:

Thanks Karen. We are glad to hear that you were able to replace that oven door. Let us know if you ever need more assistance.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
February 07, 2013
A:

Lyle - hoping can help me some more. After got door back on, tested the new parts. Unfortunately, did not solve the problem. When oven is cool, the light will come on when the door is opened. When the oven is warming up, the light will come on when the door is opened (and convection fan will turn off), but when it is up to temp (say 350 for 5 min), when the door is opened, neither the light nor the convection fan will turn off. We had replaced the latch assembly (part #4451896), but that does not solve the problem. The other problem is that when using the self clean mode, it gives error of F5E1, which we thought was also associated with the door latch (cause error code says F5E1 is self clean latch will not lock, but the door is locked and won't open. (last time it opened after powering off/on once cool - will try that again (hot not from cleaning this time, but due to testing the light/fan on/off). Found info on tech sheet to test the latch - solenoid (resistance = 93 ohms), latch switch continuity- unlatched = infinite, latched = 0 (or small fraction), door open/closed continuity = door closed infinity, door open 3.0 ohms. We also changed the transformer (part #9760588) because I had heard a high pitched noise when the oven was on and not when power was turned off. On another posting, it was suggested that is was probably this transformer and it was for the light, so we thought it might be related. Still hear high pitched noise when oven power on and didn't solve light on with door open problem. What else can it be???? Is there a way to test the microcomputer (part #4452894)? Where does the solenoid that keeps the door locked during cleaning (part #4452224) get it's power to stay in the locked position even when the power has been turned off??? Thanks for your help.

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Karen -
February 10, 2013
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Q:

oven KEBC177KBL0 - LED lights are "funny" - 2 like a 9 type thing - after running self clean. All functions test work and oven comes to temp set.

A:

I understand that it must be an inconvenience not to have the oven control board working again.  While you are waiting for your expert answer, I did some research on the unit.  I was unable to locate information that would be helpful with regards to your question at this time.  Your expert will answer within two business days.  I also added the link to Sears Home Services, if you decide to schedule service.  Thank you for using Manage My Life.
 

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Yadira B -
May 01, 2013
A:

I checked the information on that electronic oven control board. I see your dilemma regarding the availability of the part. Having that control board rebuilt will probably fix your problem. If you decide to have it rebuilt, you can send it to Core Centric Solutions. Here is a link for their website that has contact information: CoreCentricSolutions.com.

 

If you are able to remove that control board and ship it to that company yourself, then it will probably be worth it to fix the oven. I can't guarantee that the control board will not ever fail again, but it should last several years even when you use the self clean cycle. You may consider having a service technician examine the oven to make sure that the cooling fan for that control area is working properly. You can schedule service through this link: Sears Home Services Oven Repair

 

If you need more help, reply with additional details and we will assist you further. 

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
May 02, 2013
A:

Thanks. We can remove and send in, just rather not be without my oven (i'm not that concerned that it doesn't tell time right or that the temp says 950 for 350 as long as the oven is at 350!) is the cooling fan you are referring to the blower (#4455334)? Is there a dianostic test to verify it is working properly? I do feel air coming in/out around the top and bottom of the door, is there more to testing it working?

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Anonymous -
May 02, 2013
A:

Yes. The cooling fan is the blower part 4455334. According to your details, that fan is working properly and moving air across the control components. You should not need to test that component any further. You should be able to fix this problem by having the electronic control board repaired. Hopefully it will continue to work for many years once it is installed. If you need more help, let us know.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
May 02, 2013
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Q:

kitchenaid convection oven model KEBC177KBL0. Fan noise

A:

I understand that your Kitchenaid convection oven is making a loud noise. While you are waiting for an expert to respond, I have attached some helpful links below that may provide information to assist you with your question. Have a great day!

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Alina F. -
June 22, 2012
A:

OK. Took front control panel off. Clean inside. Problem is definitely coming from the fan in the back - blower? It is the thing way in the back, that rotates to blow air out of the top vents of the oven. Anyone have a diagram as to how to replace it? It is in the very back of the part above the oven (behind the control panel and behind all the wires). Seems like there would be a certain way to gain access. Lyle W had provided a schematic before for me to remove parts to take care of the oven light problem.... can you or someone help again? Thanks

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Karen -
June 23, 2012
A:

I provided some information about that fan in the first image below. The second image shows the procedure for accessing that cooling fan. Be sure that you shut off the house circuit breakers for the oven to completely disconnect electrical power before accessing internal components. You can examine that fan and order a replacement from this page if necessary: Blower Fan for KitchenAid Oven KEBC177KBL0 .

I hope that this information helps. If you need more assistance, let us know.

If you get to the point where you need to have a service technician diagnose and repair this failure, you can schedule service through this link: Sears Home Services .

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
June 25, 2012
A:

I have the same problem with my Kitchenaid wall oven (similar model number KEBC107KB0). I have removed, cleaned and re-installed the cooling blower at the top of the oven at the back. It is improved, but still quite noisy. The worn out part seems to be the bushing at the motor end of the fan shaft. The parts catalogue shows only the complete assembled blower unit, an expensive assembly for only a worn bushing. Any suggestions about replacing only the bushing.

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Duane -
March 23, 2013
A:

Hello Duane. I checked for component parts for that cooling fan assembly. I did not find individual parts available. It appears that you will need to replace the entire fan assembly to fix that bushing. I understand your concern about the price of that part. In this situation, replacing the entire fan assembly looks like the only fix available.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
March 25, 2013
A:

Thanks Lyle for the reply, looks like it's time to bite the bullet and order the fan assembly.

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Duane -
March 25, 2013
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