Model #JTP14WV2WW GE Built-In Oven, Electric

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Question and Answers

Q:

Hi, Our GE wall Oven JTP14WV2WW is not working

A:

Managemylife.com is always a great resource to find the answers to just about anything. Your expert will research your question and respond within two business days but usually sooner. Have a great day!

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Alina -
January 03, 2013
A:

Your details indicate that you may have 2 failures. That bake element is probably heating constantly due to a short circuit to the cabinet or due to a stuck relay on the control board. If the element is shorted to the metal cabinet, then the element will need to be replaced at the same time that you replace the control board. You can order the element from this page: GE Wall Oven Model JTP14WV2WW Parts . The electronic control is not available from that Sears PartsDirect.com website. You can pull the control board out of the oven and ship it to Core Centric Solutions for repair to avoid spending $500 on a new control. That company will repair the control board for about $150. Here is a link for their website that has contact information: Core Centric Solutions.com .

I hope that this information helps. If you need more assistance, reply with additional details.

If you get to the point where you need to have a service technician diagnose and repair this failure, you can schedule service through this link: Sears Home Services .

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
January 04, 2013
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Q:

How do I test a limit switch on JTP14WV2WW GE Wall Oven?

A:

Having to work on the Range can be challenging. I have taken the time to research on the Manage My life website and have located similar information toward your question. While you are waiting for a detailed reply from an expert I have attached the link below. Hope this helps!

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Priscilla V -
February 12, 2012
A:

Thank you Priiscilla. Unfortunately, both my bake and broiler elements stopped working at the same time. I tested both elements and they are fine as is the temperature sensor. I am hoping to find out how to test the limit switches to see if they are operational and need to do so without being able to heat the oven.

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Robert -
February 12, 2012
A:

The wiring diagram for your oven is shown in the image below. Based on that wiring diagram, the limit switches will not be causing your bake and broil element heating failure. There is one limit switch that controls the cooling fan and there is one limit switch in the oven door lock circuit. I do not recommend that you test those components at this time based on your element heating failure. I recommend that you check your house circuit breakers and fuses for the oven first. If you do not have the L2 leg of power (that is traced in red) supplied to the oven, then the elements won't heat. If the house circuit breakers or fuses are okay, then you will probably need to carefully check the live voltage that you have supplied to the oven. NOTE: Use extreme caution if you check that live voltage yourself. Wear proper safety equipment (electrical safety gloves and safety goggles) when checking that voltage . If you are not completely confident in your technical ability to check that live voltage, I recommend that you have an electrician check that issue. Here is a link for the Sears Service website in case you need it: Sears Home Services .

If that voltage supply is okay, then you could have a wiring failure in that circuit or a bad clock control board. A bad oven temperature sensor could also cause this problem. Reply with additional details if you need more help diagnosing and repairing this failure.

If you need parts, you can order them from the Sears PartsDirect website.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
February 13, 2012
A:

Thank you for the help Lyle. I checked the house ciruit breakers and they are good, I am assuming there are no internal fuses on the oven. What is the best way to test the temperature sensor? I may have done that wrong initially. There is power getting to the oven and I hear it click as if it is trying to heat up but the elements do not get hot. Both elements stopped heating at the same time and they both test out okay. My wife used the stove about 20 minutes before they stopped heating. I thought perhaps there was some safety switch or fuse that kept a circuit opened or cut power to the elements. What should I do? PS Thank you for the wiring diagram> I really appreciate your help.

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Robert -
February 14, 2012
A:

You are correct. According to the wiring diagram shown above, there are no internal fuses in the oven. That click that you hear when the oven is trying to heat up is probably the relay on that control board that applies the 120 volt "L1" leg of 240 volt power to the element (through the yellow wire for the bake element and the purple wire for the broil element). The "L2" (120 volts of opposite potential) is normally constantly applied to those elements through that red wire. Since you hear the click, that temperature sensor is probably okay but you can check it as shown in the link for a repair video that I provided below. I provided a basic procedure for accessing that sensor in the image below. Be sure that you SHUT OFF THE HOUSE CIRCUIT BREAKERS to completely disconnect electrical power from the oven before accessing internal components. If that sensor measures around 1100 ohms at room temperature, then it is probably okay. Since the control board lights up and the relay clicks to apply that L1 voltage to the element, the clock control board in the console is probably okay. Your symptoms currently point to a failure in the "L2" leg of voltage supply on that red wire to the elements. The second link below shows how to remove the bake element. I recommend that you SHUT OFF THE HOUSE CIRCUIT BREAKERS for the oven to completely disconnect electrical power and carefully pull that element into the oven cavity so that you can access the wire leads on that back of that bake element. NOTE: It is crucial that you have the electrical power completely disconnected when handling that bake element (or the broil element) since that L2 leg of power is constantly supplied through that circuit. Wear electrical safety gloves and safety goggles when handling that element (just in case). Position that element so that the bare wire leads are not contacting the metal cabinet of the oven. (Continued below)

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
February 15, 2012
A:

If you are comfortable with making a live voltage check, you can turn on the house circuit breakers to restore power to the oven. At that point, you should have 120 volts of L2 voltage supplied to the red wire on that bake element. You can CAREFULLY check for that 120 volts AC by placing on meter probe on the bare wire lead for that element and touching the other probe to the metal cabinet (preferably a bare spot that is not painted -- probably around one of the screw holes for the element mounting screws). You should measure 120 volts AC from that live voltage check. If not, then a voltage supply problem is causing this heating failure. NOTE: You should only conduct that live voltage check if you are completely confident in your technical ability to safely execute it. Wear proper safety equipment -- electrical safety gloves and safety goggles. Do not allow the bare wire leads to contact the metal cabinet during this test. Shut off the house circuit breaker as soon as testing is completed. If you are not confident that you can safely check that live voltage, I recommend that you have a service technician diagnose and repair this oven heating failure. I hope that this additional information helps. If you need more assistance, reply with additional details.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
February 15, 2012
A:

Robert,- Did you ever track down the exact problem? Having the same issues (all my voltages seem to be okay). Broil no work. Bake no work. Fan will go if I select 'Convection'. Just had it set to Bake, it sat doing nothing for about 30 Mins. (+/-) then inexplicably started heating up.

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David -
July 29, 2012
A:

Hello David. I do not know whether Robert is still following this thread. If you have the L2 voltage at the elements then you probably have a failure in the control board. There is a possibility that the relays are not closing on that control board properly to apply that L1 leg of voltage potential to the elements. I hope that this helps. Robert may have more insight if he fixed has problem. Let us know if you need more assistance.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
July 30, 2012
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