Model #JGBP28SEM1SS GE Free Standing, Gas

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Question and Answers

Q:

GE RANGE/OVEN - MODEL NO. JGBP28SEM1SS

A:

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Priscilla V -
December 21, 2011
A:

Thank you for your question and I understand your concern.

If the igniter looked the same then it was most likely the correct one.

If the igniter is not glowing then it could be broken or the oven safety valve failed if the aluminum foil happened to have touched and shorted across the igniter. If the igniter is not getting the 120 volts I would suspect a faulty oven safety valve or possibly the electronic oven control. The oven safety valve circuit can be tested for continuity with an Ohm meter. Disconnect the wires from the side of the valve sending gas to the burner and check across the two terminals for continuity. If it does not measure continuity; replace the oven safety valve. Be sure to shut off the gas and the electrical supply before removing the gas valve.

Check the things I have covered here and if I may be of further assistance as more details become available, please reply to this post.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
December 21, 2011
A:

I believe that the new igniter is not broken as I took extra care in handling/installing it. However, it does not look the same as the old igniter. The old igniter has a bigger white ceramic where the wires comes out and the igniter itself has no metal shield like the new one. However, the new igniter is the same as the broil igniter currently installed although the part no. from PARTSELECT.COM, PS243425 (a compatible substitute?) is different from GE's part no., which is WB2X2154. The BAKE and temp pads work in the control panel as well as the BROIL and HI/LO temp pads. I'll check the oven safety valve, as recommended and will let you know of the result. Thank you for your advice.

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LORENZO -
December 21, 2011
A:

Correction to my last posting - GE'S PART NUMBER IS WB2X9154. Sorry about hat.

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LORENZO -
December 21, 2011
A:

There are four terminals in the valve - 2 on the left where the igniter is connected to one of them, and two at the bottom right. There is continuity between the igniter terminal and the one beside it. No continuity between the top left terminals and the bottom right terminals. However, there no continuity on the igniter itself, and as I believe that it works the same way as in a light bulb. Therefore, there should be continuity on the igniter. Did I get a defective igniter?

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LORENZO -
December 21, 2011
A:

Lorenzo: The igniter should measure resistance if it�s not broken. Sometimes the crack can be so small that you can't see that it�s broken. The two terminals to check on the gas valve should be on the same side of the valve. One side is for bake and the other side for broil. Based on your findings I would say the new igniter is broken. The igniters are very fragile and it does not take much to break them. Use caution when handling the igniter.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
December 22, 2011
A:

Thank you for your reply and advice. I asked the appliance tech I called, to repair my refrigerator, to check the oven yesterday and he brought in today a new igniter. That igniter that he brought with him didn't work either, although an igniter (flat) that he hooked up yesterday to test if it will burn or glow did glow. Anyway, as I have a tech to work on it, thank you for your time in replying to my inquiry.

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LORENZO -
December 22, 2011
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