Model #J5 HITACHI Amplifier

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Question and Answers

Q:

pressure switch replacement 106.153780

A:

Thank you for choosing Sears Parts Direct. I will be happy to help with your air compressor. Upon researching model 106.153780; I show the pressure switch has been updated twice. There was the original one that was on it. Then the first update would have worked with an installation kit. The first update would have been a pressure switch that is original to a different air compressor. This second update part number 158j5 is an update to the second pressure switch which is an original to a different air compressor. Contact our parts customer care and inform them that the pressure switch does not work. They can submit a research on the switch.

Thank you for choosing Sears. We appreciate your business. Have a great day.    

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Jeff Wallace Jr -
Sears Technician
April 28, 2015
A:

Thank you for choosing Sears Parts Direct. I will be happy to help with your air compressor. Upon researching model 106.153780; I show the pressure switch has been updated twice. There was the original one that was on it. Then the first update would have worked with an installation kit. The first update would have been a pressure switch that is original to a different air compressor. This second update part number 158j5 is an update to the second pressure switch which is an original to a different air compressor. Contact our parts customer care and inform them that the pressure switch does not work. They can submit a research on the switch.

Thank you for choosing Sears. We appreciate your business. Have a great day.    

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Jeff Wallace Jr -
Sears Technician
April 28, 2015
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Q:

Removing wall oven door model #RK747G0J5BG

A:

Thank you for your inquiry on your GE Oven, Model: RK747G0J5BG. From reviewing the details on your model, it appears that the model number you provided is not pulling up in our system due to either the model number is incorrect or the model number is no longer in our system. 

I hope this answered your question. Thank you for contacting SearsPartsDirect.com, and have yourself a wonderful day. 

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Gerry 93 -
Sears Technician
April 22, 2015
Q:

Hooking up new circuit board to an electric GE double wall oven

A:

Definitely having to do repairs on the Range yourself can be a challenge. I have researched your issue on this website and came across a question that is similar to yours. The expert provides further detailed information that might enlighten you. Hope this helps!

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Priscilla V -
February 15, 2012
A:

I need to know if COM1 on the new circuit board corresponds to 1 on the old circuit board. I can send photos through email since my picture files are larger than what your system can handle. I would also like a diagram of where the rest of the wires go on the new circuit board. The new one has the same labels, but the tabs are slightly in different positions. Not too worried about those, but would like to be safe. My main concern is L1-1, MDL1, MDL2, COM0, and COM1

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Doug -
February 15, 2012
A:

Thank you for your question. I understand that you are trying to replace the electronic board on your GE double wall oven.

I would be happy to help you get your new control board wired up. Please respond here with the complete model and serial number off of the appliance, along with the part number of the board that you recently purchased. I would like to make sure that you have the correct control board and verify that using the appliance model number.

I look forward to assisting you with your appliance repair.

If you get to the point where you need to have a service technician complete this repair, you can schedule service through this link: Sears Home Services .

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Andrew D -
Sears Technician
February 16, 2012
A:

The model number of the oven is JKP45WW1WW. The serial number is TR6035910. the receipt that was printed for me showed a part number for the control board to be: 22 364 CC WB27T102901. I also attached photos of the schematics and the labels on the new and old control boards. The TEGA SANYO lable is the new control board. I already hooked up the control board on the cover. I just need confirmation as to where the wires are hooked up onto the control board. Some are pretty evident. Others are confusing, especially the MDL1, MDL2, COM0, COM1. Also, the broil and bake tabs can be confusing. The old control board has the tabs on the board. The new control board has these tabs on black blocks, and there are two to choose from

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Doug -
February 22, 2012
A:

The black boxes you are referring to are the relays on the new control board. The terminals are the same, just built into the actual relays.

MDL means Motor Door Lock. MDL1 is for the upper oven and MDL2 is for the lower.

MDL1 will connect to the K7 relay on the control board and MDL2 will connect to the K8 relay. The schematic also reads that COM0 is the common for the MDL1 relay and COM1 is for the MDL2. You have a double wall oven, so really you are going to have two controls for everything. One bake control for the upper and one bake control for the lower. Same with the Broil and Convection features.

I have attached a couple of wiring schematics that should help clarify where the remaining wires go.

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Andrew D -
Sears Technician
February 22, 2012
A:

I have one more problem. There seems to be two terminals for Bake 1, Broil 1, Bake 2, and Broil 2. Which terminal do I attach the wire to, or does it matter?

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Doug -
February 22, 2012
A:

Yes, those wires have to be connected correctly or you may end up powering the Baking element when trying to control the broil etc. The neutrals are always powered on this unit and we definitely want to be careful with this board.

Those terminals are there to control the elements for the upper and lower ovens. The Bake 1 relay is the K2 relay. The Bake 2 goes to the K4 relay and Broil 2 goes to the K4 relay. The other wires you have are going to all connect to the neutral terminal block on the back of the unit.

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Andrew D -
Sears Technician
February 23, 2012
A:

I do see that the K1 relay has three terminals. The terminal by itself is for L1-1. Then there a a pair of terminals next to each other. Which terminal do I plug the Broil 1 wire to? The same questions goes for Bake 1. I know the wire goes to the K2 relay, but which terminal? I guess it goes to one of the paired terminals, but which one? Broil 2 goes to K4 relay. It has three terminals. The terminal by itself should be for L1-2. But which of the paired terminals do I plug in Broil 2? Bake 2 goes to the K5 relay. However, which terminal do I plug the wire to?

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Doug -
February 23, 2012
A:

L1-1 and L1-2 are going to be your incoming line voltage. On the relay itself you should see the letters NC and NO. Those stand for Normally Closed and Normally Open. You do not want to connect any wires to the NC terminal as that will force the element to be ON at all times. Use the NO terminals only for the Bake, Broil and Convection.

Black - L1-1 line voltage
Black w/ White Stripe - L1-2 Line Voltage
Yellow - Bake 1 (upper oven) K2 Relay
Yellow w/ White Stripe - Bake 2 (lower oven) K5 Relay
Violet - Broil 1 (upper oven) K1 Relay
Violet w/ White Stripe - Broil 2 (lower oven) K4 Relay
Orange - Convection 1 (upper oven) K3 Relay
Orange w/ White Stripe - Convection 2 (lower oven) K6 Relay

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Andrew D -
Sears Technician
February 23, 2012
A:

Please confirm the following... 1. The L1-1 tab is on the K-1 relay. 2. The L1-2 tab is on the K-2 relay. 3. Does the wire that attached to the tab between J5 and MDL2 on the old control board go to COM1 on the new board? Please confirm these three items.

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Doug -
February 24, 2012
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