Model #IES5000RQ0 INGLIS Residential Dryer

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Question and Answers

Q:

dryer drum IES5000RQ0 Inglis Residential dryer

A:

The door switch is defective. That switch should "open" to stop the dryer when that door is open. 

 

I recommend that you replace that door switch (part 3406107).  Unplug the dryer. Remove the lint screen from the housing. Remove the two screws that secure the top panel to the lint screen housing. Release the clips under the front lip of the top panel and lift the top panel up. Prop the top panel securely against the back wall behind the dryer. Unplug the existing door switch from the wire harness. Remove the screws that mount the door switch to the front panel. Install the new door switch and reassemble the dryer.

 

If you need more help, reply with additional details and we will assist you further. 

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
November 06, 2013
Q:

The dryer does not turn on when you press the button. You can hear the timer running but not anything else? IES5000RQ0 Inglis Residential dryer

A:

Searspartsdirect.com is always a great resource to find the answers to your parts questions. Your Sears partsdirect expert will research your question and respond within two business days but usually sooner. Thank you for using Searspartsdirect.com!

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Anna T -
April 24, 2013
A:

Hello Jeanette. I am sorry to hear about the problems that you are having with your Inglis Dryer Model IES5000RQ0.

 

Since the timer motor runs, this indicates that you have proper voltage supplied to the dryer. I posted a wiring diagram in the first image below. The voltage supply through the drive motor is traced in blue. You could have a bad timer, a failed start relay, a bad drive motor, a defective door switch or a wiring failure in that circuit that would prevent the dryer from running.

 

I recommend that you check the thermal fuse first. You can unplug the dryer and remove the back panel to access that fuse.  The second image below shows the location of that thermal fuse on the blower housing. It should have blue wires attached to it. With the dryer unplugged, you can connect the two blue wires together and tape them with electrical tape for a brief test. Plug the dryer back in briefly and see if it will start with that fuse bypassed. (Do not touch any internal components while the dryer is plugged in with that back panel removed.) Open the door to shut off the dryer and unplug it as soon as that brief test is completed. If the dryer runs with that fuse bypassed then the fuse will need to be replaced. Do not continue to run the dryer with that thermal fuse bypassed. 

 

You can order parts from this page:  Inglis Dryer Model IES5000RQ0 Repair Parts.

 

Note: If that thermal fuse was blown, then you will need to check the exhaust vent duct path to the outside of your home for a clog or restriction. That type of problem could have caused the thermal fuse to blow. A new thermal fuse will blow again shortly after being installed if you do not resolve an exhaust air flow problem.

 

If the thermal fuse is not causing your problem (the dryer does not run even with that fuse bypassed) then you can check the door switch in a similar manner.  Be sure that you unplug the dryer when accessing internal components.

 

The third image shows how to lift the top panel of the dryer to access the door switch.

 

Note: It appears that you asked this question through our Sears PartsDirect website. To view images you can copy and paste this URL into your browser to visit the Manage My Life website and see the answer: http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/questions/342515-dryer-does-turn-press-button-hear-timer-running-anything-ies5000rq0-inglis-residential-dryer  

 

If the door switch is okay, you could have one of the other failures listed above such as a bad start relay. If you need more help with diagnosing this problem, reply with additional details.

 

If you get to the point where you need to have a service technician examine and repair the dryer, you can schedule service through this link: Sears Home Services Dryer Repair.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
April 25, 2013
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Q:

timer will not advance

A:

Troubleshooting dryers can be difficult but it sounds like you have the tools and knowledge. While you wait for the expert to review your dryer, I attached a quick video that may help. If you do decide to schedule an experienced technician to help, I also added the link to Sears Home Services. I hope this helps.

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Barbara H. -
February 16, 2012
A:

Thank you for your question and I understand your concern.

The model number you provided is not a correct or valid model number. Without a valid model number I will not be able to pull up the model specific wiring diagram. Based on your symptom it sounds like you are missing Line 2 voltage. Some model dryers use a 220 volt timer motor. Since the unit is not heating or advancing, I suspect the timer and heating element is not getting the Line 2 (L2) voltage supply.

So that's what I can tell you at this point. I can give you more detailed help if you could provide me with the complete and valid model number. If you could supply me with that information I will be happy to assist you further.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
February 17, 2012
A:

Sorry about the model number fiasco, it should read IES5000RQ0. It's hard to read even knowing there was a mistake.

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Cecil -
February 17, 2012
A:

Cecil: Thank you for adding the correct model number. The timer motor and heating element requires 220 volts in order to advance and heat. Based on the failure, it sounds like the dryer is not getting 220 volts. The voltage must be checked across the two outside terminals at the terminal block where the power cord attaches. I do not recommend checking the voltage unless you have experience and feel safe and confident in doing so, otherwise I recommend calling a service technician to diagnose and repair your dryer. I added the wiring diagram in the image below to reference the timer motor circuit and heater circuit.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
February 17, 2012
A:

Joey; It turned out to be a broken heater coil. Wouldn't dry or come to temp to activate the timer motor. Thanks much for the wiring diagram, this allowed me to check all the fuses and relay contacts. PS: I am a retired electrical contractor. Didn't get zapped even once.

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Cecil -
February 17, 2012
A:

Cecil: Good job and I'm glad you didn't get shocked and I'm glad I was able to help.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
February 17, 2012
A:

Would you say that it is "usually" the heat element? In your experience, what is the usual culprit? I have a Kenmore 110.96582110 and just ordered a heat element. I have the same situation. CBs are good, no heat no time advance on Auto Dry but Timed Dry does advance.

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Patrick -
May 28, 2012
A:

Patrick: It's not always a heating element failure. It could have a burnt wire connection, lack of proper voltage, faulty thermal, operating thermostat, high limit thermostat, or a motor centrifugal switch failure. If the heating element is the original, it could be burnt in half.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
May 29, 2012
A:

It's actually my second element.

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Patrick -
May 29, 2012
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