Model #GLD4460N00SS GE Dishwasher

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Troubleshooting

Error Codes

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Condition:

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Question and Answers

Q:

Could a broken bottom short seal cause water to be left in bottom of dishwasher?

A:

I'm sorry to hear that you are having some difficulties with your dishwasher. I did some research for you at Managemylife.com and found an expert answer to a similar question that may help until your expert can respond to your specific question. The link is attached below. If you do decide to schedule service and have a qualified technician help you, I have also attached a link to Searshomeservices.com. I hope these links provided assist you.

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Jackie S -
December 30, 2011
A:

Hi Rachel,

Thank you for submitting a question to Manage My Life.

It is unlikely that either of the seals has anything to do with water left in the tub at the end of cycles. The drain system consists of the following components:

  1. Auxiliary drain pump (includes motor and one way check valve).
  2. Drain tube.
  3. Check valve (in line with drain tube).
  4. Drain hose.
The inlet cover prevents large particles from entering the sump. Water entering the drain pump is not filtered by the fine filter (metal) or by the sump filter (plastic). The drain pump is mounted on the sump and contains a one-way check valve.

You will need to check the drain system (from the tub to the house drain) for obstructions. Make sure the drain pump is working efficiently, if the impeller is damaged it will not pump as designed.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

Here is a link that you may use to view the parts list diagram or to purchase any parts needed; Sears Parts Direct .

I hope this is helpful. Check the things I have covered here, and if I may be of further assistance, include more details in a reply to this post.

Landell

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Landell -
Sears Technician
December 30, 2011
A:

This is Chris, Rachel's husband. Rachel has provided details above, however, we don't feel a blockage is the problem. Today I essentially took the drain portion of the dishwasher apart. I saw no blockages nor impeller damage on both the drain (auxilairy) pump and main pump. I even ran water through the drain hose to see if it was blocked. The 2 check valves also appear undamaged and in good condition. We've observed good flow also in the past from the check valve to the disposal. It seems all that could be left is something electronic/electrical to include possibly the main control board on the front door, the main pump, or the auxiliary drain pump. What else could it be? Thanks for your time. Happy New Year! Chris

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Rachel -
December 30, 2011
A:

Landell, Chris again. Got everything back together, turned the washer on, lights came on the front panel, Rachel noticed a faint beeping and we could not determine where it was coming from. We were going to try a load and went to start it and noted the front panel was dead. There is no sign of life from the washer, however, I have 120V ac to the control circuit board at CN5- 1 & 2 when power applied; CN1- 4 & 5 when door interlock is activated has 120V. Likewise, referring to the original problem of water draining, I have 25.3 ohms (referenced to neutral, WX which is electrically the same as WR when door interlock is closed) across the drain pump, and spec is ~ 30. I think my control board is also shot which may or may not have been the original drain problem. Chris

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Rachel -
December 31, 2011
A:

Chris, From what you have described, it is likely that the control board is the culprit. Make sure the user interface board is securely plugged into the control. If this is good, you will most likely need to replace the control part number WD21X10247. If I may be of further assistance please reply to this post. Landell

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Landell -
Sears Technician
January 03, 2012
A:

Subject: A $4.76 Air Gap This is a good one to post to aid people with our experiences and observations. We have a G.E. Model #GLD4460N00SS Dishwasher and were experiencing problems with it not draining completely and subsequently the dishes felt and looked dingy. Everyone should be aware that when this happens typically it is a blockage of some sort in the dishwasher, dishwasher drain hose, through the air gap, though the garbage disposal, and out the main drain. This model of dishwasher had only a few possibilities and they were the path for the drainage of water, the auxiliary drain pump (part WD26X10023), or the control board. To make a long story short, we had no clear indication of blockage since no obstructions were found and the disposal drained "seemingly" well with no sign of blockage. We had a slow drain caused by a $4.76 Air Gap that we replaced and were back in business. While it is fresh in my mind and to possibly save y�all time on your weekends doing what you love, following is how I would troubleshoot again. 1. Run a rinse cycle and observe the drainage into the disposal. On all garbage disposals I know of the drain hose from the dishwasher is high up near the sink opening and with or without a flashlight you should see a good stream of water during the drain cycle that slowly tapers off as the dishwasher is drained by the pump. If you see this good flow of water during draining then suspect a blockage in the garbage disposal or main sink drain plumbing. If you do not see this good flow that tapers off as the dishwasher is emptied of water, then proceed to step 2. (Continued. . .)

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Rachel -
January 13, 2012
A:

2. At the air gap, remove the hose that comes from the dishwasher and run the hose out from under the sink and directly to the sink bypassing the air gap and hose from the air gap and into the disposal. You must hold the hose at the sink and run another rinse cycle. If your hose won�t make it to the sink consider a 5 gallon bucket to drain into. If you see a good flow of water that tapers off then the problems is in the air gap or hose that goes from the air gap to the disposal. If you do not see a good flow of water that tapers off then proceed to step 3. 3. You must remove the dishwasher to get access to the drain hose that attaches to the drain pump. If you have water pooled in the bottom of the dishwasher you will get the floor wet a little. As soon as you can, unplug the dishwasher, remove the hose at the air gap, turn off the water to the dishwasher and remove that hose. Keep the drain hose higher than the dishwasher until you get it outside or somewhere you can lower the hose and drain the dishwasher. If the dishwasher won�t drain from gravity when the hose is low then this is a clue you have a blockage in the hose or dishwasher. Caution: Do not tilt the dishwasher because if water gets to the top of the front door, this is where your control boards are for the dishwasher, furthermore, electrical devices are on the bottom of the dishwasher so use extreme caution. Remove the hose at the pump and make sure no blockage. You can use a garden hose held securely in contact to run water through the dishwasher hose to see if it is blocked. If you have not blockage then proceed to step 4. 4. The problem at this point is the drain pump (which may include the impellers), a blockage before the drain pump, or the control board located inside the door to the upper right of the front latch. (Continued. . .)

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Rachel -
January 13, 2012
A:

First thoroughly eliminate a blockage or slow drain before investing in parts. This stepped process for people that work on equipment is called cutting a circuit in half. You first go to a mid-point to determine if operating normally to then determine if your problem is upstream or downstream. Whether it is electricity (typically AC), electronics (typically DC), or liquids (Typically Messy) it is all about proper flow through the machine. Had a nice little mpeg to share showing good flow into the garbage disposal, however, mpegs and files over 2 M are not accepted. Good luck! Chris, Rachel's husband. Spes optima, consilium pessimum

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Rachel -
January 13, 2012
A:

Hi Chris, Glad to hear you are up and running. Thank you for the information. The Installation Guide for this dishwasher states, "Air gap must be used, if waste tee or disposer connection is less than 18" above floor to prevent siphoning". I am including a link to the Installation Guide below. It is difficult to help with the diagnosis of issues such as this when I cannot physically be there to see the particulars of the situation. If I may be of further assistance please reply to this post. Landell

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Landell -
Sears Technician
January 16, 2012
A:

Landell, Rachel and I really appreciate your help. We had an old air gap on this dishwasher drain line, and bought a replacement that was the resolution. We found not obstructions in the drain line from the dishwasher to the disposal. You indeed mentioned the drain hose early on which includes the air gap in my assessment. However, after eliminating possibility of obstruction, what was not clear to me was the rate of flow that is required, or an ability to measure siphoning. If the air gap causes a slow flow condition, even though apparent good flow is evident, I reasoned the drain pump is on a timer and enough back pressure in the line will cause the dishwasher not to drain completely once the pump has timed out. The big variable based upon my non-experience was being aware of what normal flow looks like vs. slower flow where no obstructions are found. Appreciate your help and mission accomplished. Always like the projects where I learn and also get it fixed. Thanks again! Chris P.S. I got a short mpeg about 3M in size that shows good flow that perhaps I could send you and you could post. Pictures and videos speak volumes but unable to add them here. Perhaps IT could allow mpegs also and increase the upload size a bit?

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Rachel -
January 20, 2012
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