Model #GEC9858HQ0 WHIRLPOOL Residential Dryer

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Question and Answers

Q:

What size is the Whirlpool dryer GEC9858HQ0 model?

A:

I can fully understand your interest regarding size of your dryer. I will forward your question to an expert who will investigate the matter further and get back to you. You will hear from them within two business days if not sooner. Until you hear from us, have a nice day.

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Henry -
April 25, 2013
A:

Thank you for contacting ManageMyLife.com regarding the size of your Whirlpool dryer. I'm happy to help you today. Unfortunately, due to the age of the unit, this information is no longer available.

I was able to locate the installation guide with the dimensions of the dryer from Whirlpool's website but, the capacity is not included. If you would like the capacity of the dryer, I provided an eHow link below on how to determine the capacity of a dryer.

eHow How to Calculate a Dryer's Capacity

I really hope this information helps you today. Thank you for using ManageMyLife.com.

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Korinna S -
Sears Technician
April 25, 2013
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Q:

Whirlpool Electric Dryer - Used to shut off mid-cycle. Next, the thermal fuse went out.

A:

Apologies for the formatting. I don't see a way to edit the post.

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Matt -
March 12, 2013
A:

It can be very aggravating when your dryer continuously shuts off. While you are waiting for your expert answer, I did some research on the unit. At this time, I was unable to locate information that would be helpful in regards to your question. Some of these questions that are asked will need specific research and will be answered by an expert with-in two business days but usually sooner.

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Julio -
March 12, 2013
A:

It's not particularly aggravating, I just want to make sure my fix is a 'fix' and not a fix to the symptoms that will just cause the problem again. I did a little more reading and it seems like maybe replacing the high-limit thermostat along with the thermal fuse will do the trick. I will thoroughly clean the airways and screen before i put everything back together just in case it was a little restricted on the intake air, but things didn't seem too bad when I disassembled it yesterday. New part should be here tomorrow and I plan to just run it and see what happens, but if there was anything else to look for or change out while I'm in there, I figured I'd seek expert opinions.

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Matt -
March 13, 2013
A:

Thank you for your question and I understand your concern.

 If the dryer has to sit for awhile and cool down after it quits running in mid-cycle before it will start again, this usually indicates the motor is overheating. The motor has a built in thermal cut off inside which will open and shut the motor off if the motor is getting too hot. Once the motor cools and thermal cut off resets, the dryer will start and run again until the motor overheats. If there is no friction issues with the drum rotating, it will likely need a new motor. 

When the thermal fuse opens, it will break the voltage supply to the motor and it will quit running. The thermal fuse is not a resettable fuse. The thermal fuse and the high-limit should be replaced at the same time. If the motor is faulty and overheating, the dryer will continue to shut offf once the motor thermal motor over load opens and breaks the voltage supply to the motor.

The thermal fuse is either good or not. It does not slowly fail. If you have restricted vent system in the vent hose or if the flapper door on the vent hood outside is stuck or not opening all the way, it can and will cause the thermal fuse to fail. So, make double sure the vent system is not restricted anywhere between the back of the dryer and where it exhausts outside. 

If the heating element is broken and the L2 side is shorted to the heater housing, the element will not cycle off as long as the dryer is running even if the operating thermostat opens or the high limit opens. One side of the heating element is connected to the L2 (line 2) voltage supply. As long as the motor is running, the motor centrifual switch contacts 2M and 1M are closed which complete the L2 voltage path to one lead of the heating element. 

Also, check the motor to see if it is covered in a fine layer of dust/lint. If so, clean it off and it may prevent the motor from overheating. Disconnect the power cord from the power source before servicing.

I added the wiring diagram of your model dryer below that may be of help.

I hope this is helpful. If I may be of further assistance as more details become available, please reply to this post.  

 

 

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
March 13, 2013
A:

Thanks for the reply! One thing that I'm having trouble processing is something that seems contradictory to what I'm seeing based on my limited understanding. . The thermal fuse shows OL on my multimeter, while all the other thermostats and heating element show continuity. Yet my dryer still works...i.e. the drum turns, it blows air, just doesn't heat. I can throw a load in and run it through a full cycle, only the clothes will still be wet at the end. . Is that possible? If I read things correctly, the thermal fuse blowing should make it so the dryer won't work at all, right?

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Matt -
March 13, 2013
A:

Matt: If in fact your checking the thermal fuse and it measures OL (open) the dryer would not run. The thermal fuse should have two blue wires attached to it. The thermal fuse is mounted on the blowerwheel housing.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
March 13, 2013
A:

There's a distinct chance I'm using improper nomenclature on this. Attached is a link to a picture of what is what's showing an OL on my multimeter. 3977394

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Matt -
March 13, 2013
A:

Matt: That part in the image you sent is NOT the thermal fuse. That is the thermal cut-off and if it's open (OL), the dryer will not heat.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
March 13, 2013
A:

:) mea culpa! That makes MUCH more sense, then! In fact, looking at my order more closely, it even says cut-off. This must be what my customers feel like when they come to me saying their hard drive died, and I have to inform them that their modem is not their hard drive (I work in IT). :) So--given this information, I think I'm planning to replace both parts that came with the kit I ordered (linked below...I know I could have gotten them cheaper but I used my $3.99 prime overnight shipping so they get here tomorrow) and clean everything out as good as possible, and then see how things go. Hopefully it will be that simple!

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Matt -
March 13, 2013
A:

Matt; Very good. I believe once you replace the kit, it will heat again. Have a great day.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
March 13, 2013
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Q:

Whirlpool Gold Ultimate Care II Dryer pull -- pulled off

A:

Managemylife.com is always a great resource to find the answers to just about anything. Your expert will research your question and respond within two business days but usually sooner. Have a great day!

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Alina -
December 29, 2012
A:

Thank you for your question and I understand your concern.

To begin with, the timer knob is not supposed to be pulled out or pushed in order to start the dryer. You simply rotate the timer knob to selected cycle and then push the Start button to start the dryer.

If your not able to reattach or reassemble the knob, I recommend replacing the timer knob assembly. If you can get the knob back together and installed and your able to rotate the timer shaft using the knob, it will likely work and be Okay.

Based on you symptom; I recommend replacing the timer knob. The new knob will slide over the timer shaft. Align the flat part on the timer shaft to the flat spot on the timer knob shaft and push the knob onto the shaft.

The timer knob is offered in two colors; white or almond. The part number for the white timer knob is #3957746 and the timer knob in almond is #8283183.

You can order the knob at Sears PartsDirect .

I hope this is helpful. If I may be of further assistance as more details become available, please reply to this post.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
December 31, 2012
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