Model #GBD277PDQ09 WHIRLPOOL Built-In Oven, Electric

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Question and Answers

Q:

Temperature Control Board GBD277PDQ09

A:

Thank you for choosing SearsPartsDirect.com and being a valued member.  I can certainly understand how frustrating it can be when you can no longer see the temperature on your range.

Yes, you will need a new control board since they are one piece.
W10438751 is the replacement part number. 

You can also visit searpartsdirect.com for parts, diagrams, and repair information.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

Thank you for your question. Have a great day. 


 

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Natasha12 -
Sears Technician
November 04, 2014
Q:

Whirlpool Gold double electric oven, Model # GBD277PDQ09 & serial # XR3011191. Electrical storm but no nearby lightning. Malfunction when power back up.

A:

I know how disappointing it is when a power outage damages your major appliances. An expert will respond shortly with a detailed response. It usually takes 24-48 hours to receive a response. In case your wanting to schedule service I attached a link to the Sears Home Services website below. I hope all goes well.

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Jackie S -
March 08, 2012
A:

You could have a problem with the house circuit breakers or the power supply that is provided to the oven. Check the circuit breakers to see if those are tripped. If you find no problems with the power supply that is provided to the oven, then you could have a blown thermal fuse in that power supply wire going to the control board in the console. The first image below shows a wiring diagram with the power supply for the control board and the transformer traced in red and blue. That thermal fuse in that circuit could prevent the transformer from getting power. The second image shows the location of components in the oven. The 3rd, 4th and 5th images show access information for the components in that oven. You can shut off the house circuit breaker for the oven to completely disconnect electrical power and check that thermal fuse for the control. Here is a link for a brief repair video that shows how to check for continuity through a thermal fuse: Thermal Fuse Testing . That thermal fuse in your oven console may be different than the one shown in the access images. If it is blown, you can replace it with part 4451042. You can order that part from the Sears PartsDirect website. Here is a direct link for that part: Fuse .

If that thermal fuse is okay, then you could have a bad transformer. You will probably need to check live voltage going to that transformer. NOTE: Use extreme caution when checking live voltage in that oven. Wear proper protective equipment (electrical safety gloves and safety goggles). Shut off the circuit breakers to the oven as soon as live testing is completed. You should only check this live voltage if you are completely confident in your technical ability to safely measure it . If you need to have a service technician check that voltage, you can schedule service through this link: Sears Home Services .

You should measure 120 volts AC going to that transformer through the red wires. If that transformer is getting that 120 volt power then you should measure low voltage (probably 24 volts DC) out of those blue wires. I don't have the exact specification on that low voltage out of that transformer. It could be 24 volts AC instead of DC. If you are getting no voltage at all then that transformer will need to be replaced. You can order parts from the Sears PartsDirect website. The part number for that transformer is 9760587. Here is a direct link for that part: Transformer .

If that transformer is not getting power then you could have a wiring failure or a blown thermal fuse as described above.

These tips may help you resolve this oven problem on your own. If you need more help, reply with additional details.

If you get to the point where you need to have a service technician diagnose and repair this failure, you can schedule service through this link: Sears Home Services .

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
March 09, 2012
A:

Here are the 4th and 5th images. Be sure that you shut off the house circuit breakers for the oven before accessing internal components.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
March 09, 2012
A:

I tested the two 40 amp breakers and found no voltage when they were switched off, but 120 volts from each when switched on. There is continuity across the thermal fuse. Testing the transformer, with the breakers switched on I find 120 V across the ends of the red wires disconnected from the upper pair of terminals (i.e., the wires are good and the voltage is there.) When I hook the multi-tester to the lower terminals there seems to be continuity through the transformer, but I do not get a consistent voltage reading--the needle fluctuates a little, but always settles on zero (with the power on and the red wires connected, of course.) Does this mean the transformer is shot? Is there anything else I should test before I install a new transformer?

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G E -
March 10, 2012
A:

I added a resistance check for that transformer in the image below. Be sure that you have the house circuit breakers shut off to completely disconnect electrical power when checking that resistance. This may help you further test that low voltage transformer. Your details indicate that the transformer is getting the 120 volt AC supply power. Check that low voltage output in a DC and AC setting on your meter. I do not have a specification on whether it is AC or DC supply voltage to the control board. The technical information just indicates that it should be around 24 or 25 volts. If you need more help, let us know.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
March 12, 2012
A:

My little Sperry multimeter says the resistance in the transformer's primary coil is low. As a baseline I crossed the multimeter probes and got a reading of 0.3. Then I checked across the upper terminals and got 57.5, not the 75-95 that's apparently expected. Then I checked across the lower terminals and got a nice normal 2.3. I went back to the upper terminals and got 57.5 again. I also checked AC voltage out of the transformer (across the blue wires) and got a very stable 24V! I had only checked for DC voltage before. So now I have a transformer that has low resistance in the primary coil but normal seems to be doing its job (normal voltage from the secondary coil.) What's the next step? More testing, I suppose, or could the low resistance in the transformer be the problem despite the normal 24V output?

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G E -
March 13, 2012
A:

Since the control board (part W10406070) is getting the low voltage power from the transformer, it should power up the display. The next step in troubleshooting this problem is to replace that control board. I added a link for that part below this response. Replacing that control board may fix your problem. Hopefully you do not have any further damage or failures due to that power outage. If you need more help, reply with additional details.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
March 14, 2012
A:

Okay, I have to replace the control board. What worries me now is that the one pictured in the image you attached (above) is not the one in my stove. It's an official manufacturer's substitute. I'm sure it has all the necessary connections, but if so they are arranged differently. We are sure, aren't we? And there will be enough direction for a non-professional to hook it up?

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G E -
March 14, 2012
A:

I checked with the manufacturer regarding that substituted control board. The manufacturer indicates that it is a valid substitute part that should work in your oven. The connections may be in different locations. There should be no problems connecting the original wires. You can use the wiring diagram shown above as a guide if necessary. If you decide to replace that component yourself and you need help with the installation, let us know.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
March 14, 2012
A:

I just finished ordering the control board. Thank you very much for the guidance and for tolerating my ineptness. I'll be back to ManageMyLife with my next big problem! G. E. Shissler

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G E -
March 15, 2012
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Q:

w10244191 controler has 16 terminal but the original touch pad has a 14 wire ribbon what do i need to make this work

A:

I have done a search through the model number that you have provided and was unable to find any information on it anywhere. If you could possibly provide more details about the item you are having problems with or even verify that, that is the correct model number I would be more than happy to assist you. Have a great day.

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Alina F. -
November 19, 2010
A:

Thank you for a very good question. It looks like on something like this we will need the model number off the dishwasher; this way we will have access to any model specific notes from the Mfg. Sometimes depending on the model the Mfg will have revised replacement parts that work as substitutes. The replacement parts usually come with instructions if something has been changed like the wiring connections. Please reply back with a model number so we can help solve this problem for you.

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biker dave -
Sears Technician
November 19, 2010
A:

I have the same problem as Rich. In my case, it is a replacement control board for a Whirlpool double oven, model # GBD277PDQ09. The old control board Assy # is 8302319. The part # W10244191 is listed as a Manufacturer Authorized Substitution on the Sears PartsDirect web site and it did not come with any installation instructions. All other connections except for the touch pad ribbon seem to match the original. In addition to the size of the ribbon, the style of connector also is different.

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Chris -
November 19, 2010
A:

It's a whrilpool double oven model RBD305PDB14.

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rich -
November 19, 2010
A:

To Chris & rich, I'm sorry to hear the new controller is not matching up. If you tried to plug the ribbon connector to the new control and the unit is still not working after connecting the ribbon you may need to re-order the part. I do not find anything from the MFG on this part not subbing over correctly. Sometimes something like this will need a service call to complete the repairs. Remember to disconnect the power before attempting access.

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biker dave -
Sears Technician
November 22, 2010
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