Model #FRS6L7EES1 FRIGIDAIRE Side-by-Side Refrigerator

  • Freezer Door
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  • Refrigerator Door
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  • Cabinet
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  • Shelves
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  • Controls
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  • System
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  • Ice & Water Dispenser
    3 Results
  • Ice Container
    3 Results
  • Ice Maker
    3 Results
  • Wiring Schematic
    3 Results
  • Wiring Diagram
    3 Results
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Error Codes

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Question and Answers

Q:

Ice Maker FRS6L7EES1 Frigidaire Refrigerator

A:

In addition, I removed the ice maker mold and noticed the gear wont even turn manually.

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James -
June 25, 2014
A:
Samantha A -
Sears Technician
June 25, 2014
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Q:

Frigidaire Refrigerator (model no. FRS6L7EES1) - not cooling

A:

Refrigerators are the main appliances that we count on a daily base so when it comes to having problems with it can be really concerning. A suggestion I have is to visit Sears Home Services website to set service with a Sears technician. I have attached the link below. Hope this helps!

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Dezeray S -
June 21, 2011
A:

I'm sorry you are having this problem with your freezer. Since there is very little air flow from the vent, the evaporator fan motor may not be turning at full speed. If it seems slow, the motor will need to be replaced. If the motor seems ok, check the back panel in the freezer, to see if there is an accumulation of frost. If so, this will be a defrost problem. If there is no frost, this could be a problem with the air diffuser or board. Now, this will also lead to a second problem. If there is no frost build up, check to see if the compressor is running. If it is running, this will indicate either a sealed system or compressor problem. It could be a low charge, a restriction or the compressor may not be pumping properly. These are checks a technician will be required to make. I'm listing a site you can access, to have a tech come out. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services . Thank you for using Manage My Life.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
June 23, 2011
A:

Scott D- It's a problem with the defrost system. I had a tech come out to my house and troubleshoot the problem. He manually defrosted the evaporator coil behind the back panel in the freezer. He said I need a new Defrost System it costs $389.00. I searched on SearsPartsDirect.com (link below) to see if he was over-charging me for the Defrost System, but I couldn't find the Defrost System listed. I assume it includes several components that make up the Defrost System... I know the Evaporator coil is one of the components... what are the rest? Also is $389 a reasonable price for these parts... this doesn't include labor.

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RyanHart -
June 27, 2011
A:

The defrost system in this model consists of the control board, the heating element and a bi-metal. Now if the problem is with the control board, the price listed will probably be reasonable. The control board in this model is one of the newer versions and will cost approx. $150.00 . I hope this helps you. If you would like more assistance, any additionald details will be helpful and I will be glad to assist you further.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
June 28, 2011
A:

I can't find the Frigidaire (Model FRS6L7EES1) part numbers for the control board, heating element or bi-metal. Do you know the part numbers for these parts? Also, what is the bi-metal, I'm assuming that your referring to the evaporator coil... am I correct? Also, any troubleshooting steps or voltage/ohm check points would be helpful, so that I can narrow the problem down to one of these three components. I have a multimeter and extensive knowledge of electronics. I spent six years in the Marine Corps doing Avionics and Electronics on aircraft and ground vehicles and equipment... I only stated this so that way you can tell me anything complicated... test point wise, and I can get it done. Thanks

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RyanHart -
June 28, 2011
A:

Now, if the heating element came on when the technician checked this, it will indicate the control board is the problem. If the element did not heat, it could a defective element or bi-metal (defrost thermostat). To check the element and bi-metal will require removing everything in the freezer, so the back panel can be removed. First disconnect power to the unit. This check must also be made when the freezer is freezing and there is frost on the coils. With the back panel removed, disconnect the wires to the heating element and check the resistance. If you get a reading, the element will be ok. If you get no reading, the element # 5303918255 will need to be replaced. If the element checks ok, you can check the bi-metal, which is a small round disc mounted to the evaporator. Remove the wires and again check the resistance. This should read all zeros like a short. If you get no reading, the bi-metal # 5303918214 will need to be replaced. This check must be done when the coil is frosted. If these checks are good, the control will need to be replaced. These parts are available at the link listed below. I hope this will help you. If you would like more assistance, any additional details will be helpful.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
June 29, 2011
A:

I'm sorry, I forgot to list the control board part number. The control board is # 5303918340. Thank you for using Manage My Life.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
June 29, 2011
A:

The heating element (28.9 ohms) and the bi-metal (read all zeros like a short) are NOT the problem. The control board is the problem. I even recall the technician saying that the control board was bad. So, basically he was gonna replace everything in the defrost system (control board, heating element, bi-metal) and he was even gonna install a new evaporator coil too... why??? I don't know?! My evaporator coil was fine. This guy is simply dishonest. He was gonna charge me $389 for parts, when all I needed was the control board ($134.92). My refrigerator has been working fine since June 22. I just have to manually defrost it every 3 days or so. So, I know my evaporator coil is fine. My next question for you is... The technician mentioned something about having to program the control board. Is there any truth to this? If so, does the new control board come with programming instructions, or can you explain the programming process to me. Or, is this more B.S. coming from the technician? By the way, thank you very much for all your electrical troubleshooting expertise, so far.

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RyanHart -
June 29, 2011
A:

From the readings listed, the element and bi-metal are ok. The control board will need to be replaced and it should not need to be programmed. This board # 5303918340 is listed for $ 134.92 not including shipping and tax at the link listed below. Replacing it along with the service call and labor may be close to the estimated cost the tech gave you. I hope this will help you.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
June 29, 2011
A:

The service call is $59.99, I'll be the one installing the new control board, so there won't be any labor cost. The control board cost 134.92 (local pick up, no shipping cost)... for a grand total of $194.91. Compared to $464.81 (this was the total price, including labor and tax) ... that's a savings of $269.90. I removed the control board to inspect it. I found a burn mark on the back side of the board. It looks like it actually burned the trace completely in half. The burn is directly behind the R70 resistor on the opposite side of the board. See the attached pictures. I'm gonna solder a little jumper wire to fix the trace, and then see if it burns again. It probably will, something else had to be bad in the first place, in order to burn the trace.

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RyanHart -
June 29, 2011
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