Model #EIDW6105GB1 ELECTROLUX Dishwasher

  • Control Panel
    3 Results
  • Door
    3 Results
  • Upper Frame/tub
    3 Results
  • Motor & Pump
    3 Results
  • Lower Frame
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  • Racks
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Troubleshooting

Error Codes

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Question and Answers

Q:

Dishwasher will not heat. Electrolux EIDW6105GB1 Model EIDW6105GB1

A:

Thank You for choosing Sears PartsDirect.com and being a valued member. It is unfortunate to hear that you are having issues with your dishwasher and I do understand your frustration. Glad to help out. I'm looking at your model number EIDW6105GB1 and the 120 degree water temperature should be hot enough for that dishwasher. It is true that once the water enters the dishwasher tub that it will be about 105 degrees in most situations. As water begins to enter the tub, you will probably be filling with cooler water that is sitting in the fill line. Once the hotter 120 degree water enters the dishwasher and mixes with the cooler water, the end result will probably be fill water that is around 105 degrees. Keep in mind that plastic will not dry well in the dishwasher since they do not retain heat. Rinse aid is recommended for proper drying of the glass, metal and ceramic dishes. That rinse aid will cause the final rinse water to sheen off the dishes and will promote proper drying. I recommend that you continue to use rinse aid. I am not aware of any need for food particles to be left on dishes during the wash cycle for the dishes to dry properly. Pre-rinsing the dishes can cause the problem. I hope that this additional information further explains the operation of that dishwasher. Since that dishwasher is an HE (High Efficiency) model, it will use less water than other models that you may be used to. Here is a link that may help with additional troubleshooting. Just click the blue link above to be taken to the page. I trust this information will help you.

 

Thank you for choosing Sears PartsDirect.com.

 

SAFETY NOTICE: Be sure to disconnect power to the appliance before performing any repairs. If you are not comfortable with doing any voltage checks that might be recommended, please contact Sears for repairs. Be aware that there could be sharp edges inside the appliance that could cause cuts or other injuries to yourself or others.

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Sherman_G_Wallace -
Sears Technician
December 30, 2014
A:

If it were only plastic, I wouldn't mind because I understand that they do not retain heat. This is EVERY item in the dishwasher. The 105 is AFTER enough water has been able to pass through the fill tube. The 105 is also only attained when I push the hi-temp button and the sanitizer button. This should raise the temp to approx. 147-157. Your answer does not address the issue.

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Cynthia -
December 30, 2014
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Q:

My dishwasher does not get hot anymore. Is it a "heating core"/heater. I

A:

A dishwasher is definitely something we depend on and when it begins to malfunction it can be a huge inconvenience.  While you are waiting for an expert to respond, I have attached a helpful link below that may provide information to assist you with your question.

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Yadira B -
March 18, 2013
A:

Thank you for your question and I understand your concern.

I don't understand if you had a Sears technician out why didn't he/she diagnose and repair your dishwasher?

I strongly suggest getting the technician back out to diagnose the failure and to complete the repair. 

If the wash motor/wash pump is not running, water will not circulate through the flow through the inline heater assembly and it will not get hot. 

If the pump is running and it's not heating water, it could have a faulty heater assembly or a faulty control board.

The inline water heater is the total heat source for this dishwasher. Water pulled from the sump by the wash pump first passes through the inline heater before entering the water distribution system. The inline heater assembly is made up of a 1200 watt heater, formed into a coil, a long with a safety thermostat and a thermal fuse all mounted to a stainless steel tube.

The safety thermostat is a self resetting thermostat opening at 200° F and resetting at 100°F. The thermal fuse is a one time fuse that opens at 440°F. If the thermal fuse should open the heater assembly will need to be replaced.

In normal operation the control will not power the heater until the unit was filled and the wash pump is operating.

 The inline heater can be checked for resistance at the electronic control across the red and white wire connected to P10 connector. The ohms reading on the heater is 11.7 ohms cold. This heater is not to be checked with power applied without water in the unit. To replace the inline heater the unit needs to be removed from under the counter. The inline heater assembly is part #154503701 which can be ordered from SearsPartsDirect. NOTE: Disconnect the power supply from the dishwasher before servicing.

The motor can be checked for resistance at the electronic control. The ohms reading of the motor between the blue and white leads is 22.9 ohms. The tachometer can also be checked at the control the ohms reading on the tachometer is 219.9 ohms between the two green/yellow wires on the motor plug. To replace the wash pump and motor assembly the dishwasher will need to be pulled from under the counter.

 If you get to the point where you need to have a service technician diagnose and repair this failure, you can schedule service through this link: Sears Home Services.

 

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
March 19, 2013
A:

This "expert's" answer is totally wrong. Just like the jackwagon sears repair man's answer that told me it was the pump and that water in the bottom of the tub was keeping my water cold... Bull$&^#! I replaced the pump, the heating element, and the valve myself $125 in parts later it still does not heat. Don't even pull it out of the counter! Oh by the way the sears repair guy said he would not take it out of the counter due to liability reasons.. but he still charged me $85 for his wrong answer! The big blue electronics box store where we bought the garbage won't even repair the $1,100 dishwasher! Turns out the Electrolux dishwashers have a know issue with their circuit boards blowing out. Tons of people have the same issue after 2.5-3 years. Some think it due to opening the door mid cycle and water getting on it. See this link for the resolution: (copy and paste or type into your browser) http://www.howtomendit.com/answers.php?id=65984 Note you DO NOT NEED TO TAKE YOUR DISHWASHER OUT OF THE COUNTER TO GET AT THE BOARD IT IS IN THE DOOR!!!

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Anonymous -
March 22, 2013
A:

Here's what you do; Required: philips screwdriver, solder iron, solder, pen and paper. Unplug DW open door, take out 4 screws along top of inside of door (not two bigger ones around handle) and the top one screw on each side. 6 in total. pull front unit away. You'll see 2 bunches of wires leading to unit. note on pen and paper order of 2 wires on left hand power terminals. Disconnect. unwind bigger bunch of wires from centre W shape. Place front panel on top of DW. Unclip 4 clips (two each side of box) and open white box (hinged). make note of where each wired plug goes in top of box. Remove 4x left hand wired plugs (use flat head screw driver to push out) and 2x right hand wired plugs. Front electronic unit is completely free now. Lift out circuit board from front. (note: recommend use static protection when touching circuit board) On back of circuit board, under biggest black box, you should see a black/burned dry joint on circuit board. (water gets in if you pause mid cycle and eventually will burn out this joint) If no burned joint, put back together and check your heating element. Solder joint. Reverse procedure to put back together again. If this does not restore your DW, (and there was a burned out joint) you should replace circuit board. Note, make sure all screws tight.

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Anonymous -
March 22, 2013
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Q:

Electrolux EIDW6105GB1 leaks below the foat assembly.

A:

Managemylife.com is always a great resource to find the answers to just about anything. Your expert will research your question and respond within two business days but usually sooner.

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Dezeray S -
October 18, 2011
A:

Hi Michael,

Thank you for submitting a question to Manage My Life.

The instructions for removing the float are in the images below. I have marked the parts you should change NUT (part number 154506902), GASKET (part number 154677201), and WASHER (part number 154506801) with red arrows.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

Here is a link that you may use to view the parts list diagram and for parts purchases; Sears Parts Direct .

I hope this is helpful. If I may be of further assistance as more details become available, please reply to this post.

Landell

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Landell -
Sears Technician
October 18, 2011
A:

Thanks for the reply, Landell. Can you confirm my "guess" that a leak from the float assembly is most likely this part or parts? How do I know it's not the float stem or where the float seats to the tub bottom (gasket?) Does this happen often? What are the possible reasons; crud getting stuck on the float stem; leaking float assembly gasket? Just curious.

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Michael -
October 18, 2011
A:

Michael, Without being there to see this for myself, it would be difficult to confirm that the float is where the leak is coming from. If you replaced all of the parts of the float/switch assembly it would cost less than $40.00. If you are sure the leak is from that area, about the only other thing it could be is a bad tub. Landell

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Landell -
Sears Technician
October 18, 2011
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