Model #E53 HORIZON Elliptical

  • Elliptical Assembly
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Question and Answers

Q:

What do error codes E51, E52, E53 indicate? EW30CC55GS2 Electrolux Cooktop

A:

Thanks for the inquiry and for using SearsPartsDirect.com.
I am sorry to hear about the errors you are receiving on the cooktop, I know how frustrating that is to have occur.
The E51, E52, and E53 errors are all related but are referencing the different elements. The error description is 'Element temperature sensor break'. E51 is in reference to Front Left, E52 is in reference to Rear Left, E53 is in reference to Center, and E54 would be for the Right Rear, and E55 would be for Front Right. 
It sounds like the right side is okay, but the left and center elements are in question. The procedure to fix would be to check all the safety thermodisks. Veryify the element temperature sensor is correctly connected to the induction housing, or replace the element if the temperature sensor resistor value is not approximately 1000 ohms at room temperature, or replace the induction module. 
If you would feel more confident have a Sears Home Service technician help assist with the diagnosis/repair, you can call 1-800-349-5071, or click here to be directed to the page to set up service.
Let us know if we can be of any further assistance and thanks for using SearsPartsDirect.com. 

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Jeff Wallace Sr -
Sears Technician
January 14, 2014
Q:

WBVH6240 front-loading washer

A:

It is always frustrating when one of our appliances starts to act up. I'm real sorry to hear that you are having some difficulties with your GE Washer. I did some research for you at Managemylife and found an expert answer to a similar question that may help until your expert can respond to your specific question. The link is attached below. If you do decide to schedule service and have a qualified technician help you, I have also attached a link to Searshomeservices. I hope these links provided assist you.

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James -
February 08, 2012
A:

Hi Anthony,

Thank you for submitting a question to Manage My Life.

The inverter on this washer is the motor control board. The main control is the "brain" for all other functions. The inverter receives commands from the control board and controls motor operation. The inverter is enclosed in a protective housing and is located on the chassis, under the left side of the outer tub. It is inserted in 2 guides at the rear and held in place by a single Phillips-head screw at the front. For the inverter to operate the motor correctly requires a supply voltage of 120 VAC, DC input from the control board, and the three motor windings intact. Specific failures associated with the inverter can initiate error codes E43, E4A, E4B, E4C, E4E, E4F, and E53.

There is not an E56 error code that I am aware of. The E70 = Stuck key Continuous key read for 60 seconds.

In the service mode:

t10 = Tumble test. Display shows tt. Wash basket spins in one direction for 5seconds, pauses, and then spins in the opposite direction for 5 seconds. Repeats until exit initiated. (Note: Beginning direction is random.)

t11 = Spin speed-low spin/high spin test. Display shows rpm. Pump runs, displays 0, then wash basket ramps to 400 rpm. Press Start/Pause a second time to ramp to 1000 rpm. (May display 999 or 0 for 1000 rpm.) Then motor is unpowered, displays 0, pump runs, and returns to t11.

t14 = Spin speed ramp up test. Display shows rpm. Pump runs, displays0, then wash basket ramps to 100 rpm, pauses, ramps to 350 rpm, pauses, then ramps to and holds at 1000 rpm. (May display 999 or 0 for 1000 rpm.)

The rest of the test does not involve the motor or the inverter (motor control board).

To check the inverter: Always unplug or de-energize electrical equipment before removing covers or attempting service. Be careful and wear appropriate hand protection when working around sharp metal parts. Working with live electrical current can be very hazardous and possibly deadly. Do not attempt these measurements without the proper tools and safeguards. If you are not already sure you can perform these checks safely and competently, refer this work to a qualified professional.

  1. Remove the service panel.
  2. Press the 4 tabs inward and remove the junction box cover.
  3. Enter test mode t10, t11, or t14.
  4. Check for 120 VAC between the blue and red wires at the AC input harness.
Note: The 120 VAC inverter supply voltage is present only when the motor is supposed to be operating.
  1. Unplug washer, then check motor resistance. If 120 VAC is present at the AC input harness and motor resistance is correct, replace the inverter.
Note: If the inverter overheats, the washer will stop for 5 minutes.

To check the motor:

  1. Remove the service panel.
  2. Disconnect the motor wire harness.
  3. On the motor plug, check for an approximate resistance value of 6 ohms between any two of the three wires:

Blue to white - 6 OHMS

Blue to red - 6 OHMS

White to red - 6 OHMS

The sensor has a resistance value of approximately 118 OHMS between the two orange wires.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

Here is a link that you may use to view the parts list diagram or to purchase any parts needed; Sears Parts Direct .

I hope this is helpful. Check the things I have covered here, and if I may be of further assistance, include more details in a reply to this post.

Landell

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Landell -
Sears Technician
February 09, 2012
A:

Thank you for your fast response. I have to borrow someone multimeter to do the tests. When I run the tests mode I get no response in the t10 t11 t14 modes. When I try and run in normal mode the soap dispenser seems to operate correctly then the water starts running through it, it runs for around 5 seconds then it automatically goes into drain mode, after it drains the display blinks.

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Anthony -
February 09, 2012
A:

I replaced my inverter and it's still going from letting water in for about 10 seconds to draining, not the inverter do you think it's the control board???

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Anthony -
February 18, 2012
A:

Anthony,

These washers can be difficult to diagnose and not my favorite to work on! From what you are describing it is possible the door lock or the main control could be causing this. Typically you will get a door lock error though.

I recommend you Perform T02 test to check for any stored Error Codes. To run T02, remove power to washer for 30 seconds. Reapply power, press Signal button, press Delay Start button, press Signal button again, and press Delay Start button again. When T01 comes up on the display (possibly up to 3-minute delay before T01 is displayed), rotate the Cycle Select knob until T02 is displayed, then press Start button. The first Error Code, if any, will be displayed at this time. If no Error Codes, display will show E00. Rotate the Cycle Select knob clockwise up to 10 clicks to view any additional Error Codes.

I am including the wiring diagram for this washer in the image below. Check the door lock and door switch carefully. And if you get any additional error codes, we can work on diagnosing with those.

I hope this is helpful. Check the things I have covered here, and if I may be of further assistance please reply to this post.

Landell

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Landell -
Sears Technician
February 20, 2012
A:

I think I messed up, I bought a used inverter and installed it, went through the test mode and cleared it out twice then tried to run it normal, I'm still getting the E54 code, I think I might have bought a junk inverter.

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Anthony -
February 20, 2012
A:

Anthony,

In your initial question you stated, "Earlier I got E70 and E56 error code, I reset it and now I get E56 but not the E70 error code". And then in my first response I said, "There is not an E56 error code that I am aware of. The E70 = Stuck key Continuous key read for 60 seconds". Now in your last post you said, "I'm still getting the E54 code". There is an E54 error for this washer. It means "No motor response" Lost communication between control and the drive motor.

This is what I recommend now:

(A). Check connections/cables between controls.

(B). Check the motor in diagnostics - t10 tumble, t11 spin, t14 spin.

(C). Power down (unplug) washer, wait 30 seconds and retry - if reoccurs, replace inverter.

If the wires are good between the control board and inverter, and between the inverter and the motor and the motor still will not run, the inverter is probably bad. as I stated earlier today, " These washers can be difficult to diagnose and not my favorite to work on"!

I hope this is helpful. Check the things I have covered here, and let me know what you find.

Landell

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Landell -
Sears Technician
February 20, 2012
A:

Thanks for the info, I did the test before I changed the inverter and it said E54, I bought a used inverter went into test mode and cleared out all the old error codes then ran the washer in the normal mode and it did the same thing as before, I went into test mode t2 and got the E54 error code again, guess I shouldn't have bought a used inverter.

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Anthony -
February 20, 2012
A:

Anthony,

I have always advised against used electronics. There are so many out there that have been rebuilt poorly.

Let me know if you need further assistance.

Landell

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Landell -
Sears Technician
February 21, 2012
A:

I'm so confused, I put in a new converter and it's doing the same thing.

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Anthony -
February 23, 2012
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