Model #DU1100XTPB6 WHIRLPOOL Dishwasher

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Troubleshooting

Error Codes

Error Code:

Condition:

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Question and Answers

Q:

Dish Washer has power but will not turn on DU1100XTPB6

Q:

No Fill during Wash Cycle -- Whirlpool DU1100XTPB6

A:

I am sorry that you are having some difficulties with your dishwasher not filling with water and I will be happy to help. I did some research and I was able to find a link that will provide you with some good information. Click here for the link. I hope this helps with your research while you wait for your expert response.

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Joseph P. -
June 26, 2013
A:

Thank you for your question and I understand your concern.

When you run the diagnostic test by pressing Heated Dry-Normal-Heated Dry-Normal, the dishwasher should progress through the cycles and the different LED's should light as it goes through the cycles.

The voltage supply will need to be monitored and checked across the water inlet valve. If the water inlet valve is buzzing and not opening, I would have to suspect an intermittent water valve assembly. I added a couple of images below that will be helpful in diagnosing the failure. NOTE: I do not recommend measuring the voltage unless you have experience and feel safe and confident in doing so; otherwise I recommend calling a service technician to diagnose and repair your dishwasher.

When the diagnostic test is started; all the LEDs are turned on in first interval of Diagnostics as a display test. Turn on LEDs immediately upon receiving entry sequence (even if door is open) but don’t start timing until door is closed. 

Based on the symptom, it could have an intermittent wire connection in the fill circuit or a faulty water inlet valve.

 I hope this is helpful. If I may be of further assistance as more details become available, please reply to this post.


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Joey S -
Sears Technician
June 28, 2013
A:

Joey, Thanks for your guidance. 1. I am finding it difficult to read the wiring diagram because so much is crammed into one page. Would it be possible to send the same information as several pages? Even when I enlarge my browser page, the print becomes too fuzzy to read. This looks like a lot of useful information if I could get it in a readable format. 2. I believe I see that the voltage drop across the inlet valve is 120v. Am I also seeing that the resistance should be 890 to 1000 ohms? It is not clear to me when I should measure the voltage. It looks like Interval 16 - 14 in the Service Diagnostics Cycle, but I am not sure I have understood that chart. 3. When I push Heated Dry-Normal-Heated Dry-Normal, will the machine cycle through from 19 down to 1 in the time intervals indicated, a total of about 20 minutes and 45 seconds? Did I understand correctly that I can advance through the numbers by pressing START repeatedly? Will I have longer than 1 minute and 4 seconds to measure the voltage? If I open the door, I presume that cuts off the voltage, from what I think I see in the diagram.(?) Is there a way to have a longer time to measure the voltage? 4. Can I repair the inlet valve if it is fauty, or is the only viable option to replace it? Thank you!

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Michael -
June 28, 2013
A:

Michael: The images look fine. Click on the image to open and then click on the image again to enlarge. The water valve resistance should be 890 to 1000 ohms when disconnected and measured across the two terminals of the water inlet valve. You can also use your voltage meter to connect across the two leads that connect to the water inlet valve while running the diagnostic test to confirm voltage. If measure 120 volt during the diagnostic test with the water valve disconnected, connect the wires and then check again for voltage while the dishwasher is in the diagnostic test. If it measure 120 volts when connected and the valve is not opening, I would suspect a faulty water inlet valve providing you have adequate water supply to the valve. The tech sheet should generally be supplied with the dishwasher too. It could be behind the toe plate or under the tub. The water valve should have voltage after 10 seconds of starting the diagnostic test. If the valve is faulty, it will need to be replaced. You will not be able to keep the water valve energized for any length of time during the test but if you just start a regular wash cycle it will stay energized for at least a minute or more. I added images again and I hope you will be able to see them clearly.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
July 01, 2013
A:

Joey, Thanks. Those are a lot clearer. I found an infinite resistance across the pump. I wire brushed the posts to be sure I had a good contact, but there was no change. That sounds problematic for the valve. The voltage drop across the wire leads was consistently 100v, which seems a bit low. Is there some tolerance for a lower-than-normal voltage? Or could that be what damaged my valve, that is, low voltage? Would this be an issue with the electricity coming into our home? I did check the voltage at a normal wall plug. It was 118v. Would something inside the dishwasher have lowered the voltage? Interestingly, when the valve was not activated, I found a voltage of 6v across the valve wires. Is that normal? I would have expected zero. Thanks.

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Michael -
July 01, 2013
A:

Michael: Based on your details, I suspect a faulty electronic control. Check for a loose wiring connection at the float switch and at the electronic control board. The control board is most likely faulty if you do not find any loose or bad connections at the float switch or control board.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
July 02, 2013
A:

Joey, Thanks for your help. Do I need to take the door apart to gain access to the control board? I don't have the repair manual. Also, the fact that the inlet valve is busing: doesn't that mean it is faulty? Or could it be busying because 100v is not enough voltage? My experience, after years in Africa, is that things often work with wide voltage discrepancies. We in the U.S. have wonderfully dependable current, a resource much of the rest of the world does not yet enjoy. So, would my first step be to try to replace the valve? Or is it possible that the valve is good despite its buzzing and failure to function? Would I risk wasting money? Thanks!

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Michael -
July 02, 2013
A:

buzzing, not busing.

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Michael -
July 02, 2013
A:

Michael: If the water inlet valve is making a buzzing noise then the valve is getting the proper voltage supply and the valve must be faulty or there is no water supply to the water inlet valve. I would first shut the water supply off to the dishwasher and then disconnect the water supply line from the valve. Place the end of the water supply line in bucket and then turn the hot water supply on and confirm adequate water volume and pressure. If the valve is buzzing and no water enters, it must be faulty water inlet valve or the lack of a water supply.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
July 03, 2013
A:

I have A Whirpool Dishwasher purchased at Sears. Push start button will not turn on. The clean button light keeps blinking. When I press cancel button dish washer motor starts and try to drain. Have to open door for it to stop trying to drain Seems to be stuck in the clean light. Upon inspection I noticed heating element is broken at about 9 o'clock position. Do not know if this relates or not. do want to buy and replace heating element if it is unlikely this is the cause. where and how should I start checking.

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George Spencer -
September 10, 2015
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