Model #DLEX3001W LG Residential Dryer

  • Control Panel & Plate
    3 Results
  • Panel Drawer & Guide
    3 Results
  • Cabinet & Door
    3 Results
  • Drum & Motor
    3 Results
  • Control Panel & Plate
    3 Results
  • Panel Drawer & Guide
    3 Results
  • Cabinet & Door
    3 Results
  • Drum & Motor
    3 Results
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Error Codes

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Question and Answers

Q:

LG DLEX3001W Electric Steam Dryer, no display, drum light is on, house breakers ok, power to Dryer ok. Stopped in the middle of a drying cylcle.

A:

I understand how it must be frustrating also a great concern with the Dryer not working in your home. I have taken the time to research and have came across similar information you may find helpful towards your issue with the Dryer. While you are waiting for a detailed reply from an expert I have attached the links below. If you do decide to have a technician diagnose and make repairs, an option is to visit Sears Home Services and use the handy scheduler,which I have also added link link below. Hope this is helpful!

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Priscilla V -
March 04, 2012
A:

Since the display does not light up, those components that you are describing in your details are probably not causing your problem except maybe that thermistor. There is a chance that a failed thermistor could drag down the DC power supply to the display PCB control board. That resistance of the thermistor should be relatively high compared to the other components in that heating system that you are describing. The testing information for that thermistor is shown in the first image below. Make sure that your meter is set on the proper range to measure that kilo-ohm resistance. At 70 degrees F, that thermistor should measure about 5.2k ohms (5,200 ohms). This may explain why you measured it as "open". If that thermistor is okay, then you should not have to replace it. If you do need to replace it, it does not matter which way that the wire are connected on that component. It also does not matter which way the wires are connected on those thermostats if you wind up replacing those components. I do not recommend that you replace those components at this time unless they are apparently bad. Be sure that you unplug the dryer to disconnect electrical power before accessing internal components.

The second image shows information on checking the power supply to that main PCB control board. You have already checked some of those issues. You can use that information to make sure that you have power to that main control board. NOTE: Use extreme caution when checking that live voltage to the control board. Wear proper protective equipment (electrical safety gloves and safety goggles). Unplug the dryer as soon as that live voltage testing is completed . That information should help you troubleshoot this problem. I provided a wiring diagram for the dryer in the third image. The 4th image shows information on accessing and replacing the main PCB control board and the display PCB board. If that main PCB board is getting power but the display will not power up, then you will probably need to replace that main PCB board (part EBR36858811). If the display will not power up after replacing that main PCB board then you may also have to replace the display PCB board.

You can order parts from the Sears PartsDirect website.

Be sure that you unplug the dryer before accessing internal components.

If you need more help, reply with additional details and we will assist you further.

If you get to the point where you need to have a service technician diagnose and repair this failure, you can schedule service through this link: Sears Home Services .

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
March 06, 2012
A:

Here is the 4th image.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
March 06, 2012
A:

Thanks for the schematics and testing info. The thermistor is reading 11K, which is accurate at room temp according to the chart. The thermostats looked ok as well. I will do some further testing on the power to the PCB when I get home. Thanks again.

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Jeff -
March 08, 2012
A:

So I went through and checked power all the way to the control board and all looked well. I took the board out, and saw noticeable damage around YL3. In the electric model, the only thing hooked up to that is the Hi-Limit Thermostat. I have a replacement board, but my concern is that if I replace the board, whatever caused that surge that burnt the board prior will do it again, and these aren�t cheap boards. What are your thoughts? I don�t want to fry another board. Are these boards repairable?

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Jeffrey -
March 08, 2012
A:

I don't have a component schematic diagram of that control board beyond what I provided in my previous response. I understand your concern about that burnt spot on the control board. You may be able to have that control board repaired at a local repair facility if you can find one that will fix circuit boards. I recommend that you check that circuit and the components for a short. You can UNPLUG the dryer and check those thermostats for resistance. They should measure 0 ohms (continuity) at room temperature. You can also check the resistance of those thermostats to the metal cabinet. You should not measure any resistance (infinite resistance or Ol -- open load) when checking those components to the metal cabinet ground. The resistance for the heating elements is also shown in that image. You can check the resistance of those elements and check those components for a short to the metal cabinet as described above. If you find no problems with that circuit, then you should not have any more problems after repairing and/or replacing that main circuit control board. If you need more help, let us know.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
March 09, 2012
A:

Is there a way to test for a short without taking the dryer apart again? I will if I have to, but there is only one wire on that connector. Could I just test for continuity from that wire to the dryer case(ground)? Just wondering if there is an easier way. I did replace the thermistor and all the thermostats prior to putting it together. I am at the point where all I need to do is plug it in and hit the button, just afraid of blowing the board again. What do you suggest?

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Jeffrey -
March 10, 2012
A:

You can test for a short through that wire to the bare metal on the cabinet next to the control. You should not measure any resistance through that wire connection to the metal cabinet. If you do not measure any resistance, then you should not have any trouble when you power up that control.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
March 10, 2012
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