Model #DG308 MAYTAG Residential Dryer

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Question and Answers

Q:

Help with repairing old Maytag dryer-model DG308.

A:

I know how important it is to have the timer wired correctly on the dryer to keep it running strong. I suggest you add to the thread of this question and include the full model number of your dryer so that the expert can provide you with a more detailed answer. I am adding a link below to guide you with the model number information. The expert has access to most wiring diagrams and he or she will be happy to respond within 24 to 48 hours. Thank you for your patience.

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Joseph P. -
October 08, 2012
A:

Thanks for your inquiry about the DG308 wiring of the timer. I went to archives and found a wiring schematic only.
By looking at the image you sent I think all wires are on proper terminal except the white wire showing at top right. The white wire that is loose should go to the common terminal with the power cord wire (the terminal with several pins) all other wires go on based on color code. I have attached the schematic below. I hope this helps, if you need additional help reply with details.

Thanks Ron H.

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Ron H -
Sears Technician
October 10, 2012
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Q:

Maytag Gas Dryer Flame Will Not Remain On

A:

Dryers are an appliance we depend on a daily base. While you are waiting on an expert to answer your question, a suggestion I have is to visit Sears Home Services website to set services with a Sears technician. I have attached the link below. Hope this helps!

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Dezeray S -
January 03, 2011
A:

Since the igniter is glowing and it properly shuts off to initiate the lighting of the burner, the most likely failure is the gas valve coils. The theory of operation for a basic gas valve system is shown in the image below. The system on your Maytag dryer is slightly different but the basic theory is the same. It sounds like the igniter and the flame sensor are working properly. The circuit seems to be okay. If you want to fix this problem yourself, I recommend that you replace the gas valve coils.

You can order parts from the Sears PartsDirect website.

Be sure that you unplug the dryer and shut off the gas supply before accessing internal components.

If you replace the gas valve coils and still have the same problem, then you likely have a mechanical failure in the gas valve assembly.

If you need more help, reply with additional details and we will assist you further.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
January 05, 2011
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Q:

My dryer won't work. It's heating intermittently.

A:

Having one of your major appliance not working correctly can be a frustrating ordeal. Especially when you have changed parts and did all the necessary troubleshooting. I placed a link down bellow that i believe will help you extremely. I do hope that it is helpful and useful.

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celene -
December 28, 2010
A:

I forgot to mention that I've been able to test the high limit thermostat. The way I tested it was I used an infra red thermometer and then used a torch to heat up the thermostat. I tested for continuity and it would not show continuity when I had it warmed up to over 150 degrees. It says that it's a 205 degree high limit sensor. But I tested this method also on a new one and that new one also did not have continuity over 150 degrees. I'm still at a loss here. Maybe I should just buy the new one and install it and see what happens. I have a person I'm working with at an appliance store, but I cannot return opened parts. He and I actually tested both old and new high limit thermostat to make sure I did not need to buy this part if I didn't need it.

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Justice002 -
December 28, 2010
A:

BTW, I forgot to mention that my dryer is a Kenmore gas dryer. I don't know the model number but it is about 5 years old.

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Justice002 -
December 28, 2010
A:

It sounds like the igniter is good to me. The igniter should be between 50 ohms to 500 ohms. 40 is ok. If the flame is not pulling through the burner correctly it will trip the hi-limit thermostat & the igniter will not come on again until the hi-limit resets. This is usually caused by a blocked vent. If air does not flow out of the dryer properly, you will have a lazy flame. Since the hi-limit therm. is on top of the burner tube the lazy flame will trip the hi-limit pre-maturely. You must have good airflow coming out of the dryer for everything to work correctly. Try testing the unit with the vent disconnected. I do not suspect any other components at this time. You can rule out almost everything in line to the igniter, since it does come on or did come on. If the vent is clear & the unit is completely assembled I suspect the dryer will work properly. If you need anything else or run into problems please provide the model number so we will have something to reference back to.

Remember to disconnect power before attempting access.

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biker dave -
Sears Technician
December 30, 2010
A:

I've unplugged and tested everything and all shows continuity. I've even tested the coils and both show around 13000 Ohms. The vent is disconnected when testing these. What I plan on doing next is testing everything by bypassing the thermal fuse. I'll see what happens from here.

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Justice002 -
December 30, 2010
A:

Thanks for the report. I hope the thermal fuse takes care of it. Let us know.

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biker dave -
Sears Technician
December 30, 2010
A:

So, I disconnected the thermal fuse. I put a jumper wire between the two blue wires and turned on the dryer. It worked. So, something is tripping the thermal fuse. I then disconnected bottom high limit thermostat and ran the two red wires on the top high limit thermostat, and it worked. I did not try doing the bottom high limit thermostat. I should have, but I didn't.. I just put everything back together and left the thermal fuse disconnected and left the wires bypassed. Is this a bad thing? I figure, if it will get too hot, the top high-limit will trip and it will send a signal down to the gas to close. Also, another thing I'm thinking is that if there is no voltage going back to the ignitor, there may be a bad ground. Should I test the lower high-limit fuse and should I not keep the wiring bypassed? Thank you all for your help. I hope I made sense.

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Justice002 -
December 30, 2010
A:

The main thing that will take out the thermal fuse is poor venting or the operating thermostat failing to cycle off the heat. Please do not leave the thermal fuse bypassed; this is a safety hazard and should be put back together as designed. I recommend checking the operating temperature (150-190) & the venting that runs outside for blockage or running too far. It sounds like you almost got it; just let us know if you run into anything else.

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biker dave -
Sears Technician
January 03, 2011
A:

Biker Dave- I am having what I believe is a similar problem. I own a Maytag DG308 gas dryer. When I turn on the dryer, it spins for a couple of seconds then the ignitor turns on, glowing brightly. Shortly thereafter, a coil will click - secondary coil 3-5603, I believe based on feel - and the gas will turn on and will operate with a large blue flame for about 8-10 seconds, while the ignitor turns off. At that time, the same coil will click again and the gas will then extinguish. After 30-40 secs, the same coil will operate and I can hear and smell gas being on WITHOUT THE IGNITOR COIL OPERATING. The gas will remain on for about 30 secs and then the coil will operate and turn off the gas. Immediately following the gas turning off, the entire process will repeat from the start with the ignitor glowing brightly. This sequence will repeat over and over again. Any thoughts?? Whatever advice you can provide would be appreciated. Thanx!!

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1M16 -
January 03, 2011
A:

To 1M16, thank you for a detailed question. From what you described I suspect the vent is blocked or the gas valve is defective. If the vent is blocked you will have a lazy flame, this will trigger the hi-limit to shut the gas off. Try disconnecting the vent with an empty dryer to see if the flame stays on correctly. If this helps I suspect a blocked vent line. Another possibility is poor gas supply or damaged gas supply line. Remember to disconnect power before attempting access.

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biker dave -
Sears Technician
January 03, 2011
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