Model #DDE7608MAL GE Residential Dryer

  • Backsplash
    3 Results
  • Cabinet Front
    3 Results
  • Cabinet And Top
    3 Results
  • Drum/heater/blower And Drive
    3 Results
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Error Codes

Error Code:

Condition:

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Question and Answers

Q:

dryer won't heat - safety thermostat?

A:

I know how important it is to have a good working dryer in the home so that you can dry your freshly washed clothes. While you are waiting for an expert answer, I did manage to find a link that will provide you with some good tips on what to check. I hope my link is useful.

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Joseph P. -
April 23, 2011
A:

Thanks for the insight. I have tried all of these. I jumpered each of the thermostats just to confirm that it wasn't any of these and the heating element still wouldn't heat. I have looked at the diagrams of my model of dryer and have yet to find a resettable thermal switch. A few times now, with the drum out and the door safety switch bypassed, I have been able to get the heater coils to heat for a period of time. But then when I turn it off and try again, it will not heat. This is why I wonder if it isn't the high limit switch. However, if I bypass the high limit thermostat and the safety thermostat, and connect the wires directly, it still doesn't heat. Any other insights?

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Gay -
April 24, 2011
A:

Thank you for your question and I understand your concern.

Note: Do not run the dryer with drum out or it can cause the high limit and/or safety thermostat to open and cause the heater to turn off because of no air flow across the heaters. Once the high limit or safety thermostat opens it will take it a while for it to cool and reset/close before it will allow the heater to come on.

Since you see it heating the dryer is getting the proper voltage.

If both heating coils tests Okay, then it may have faulty timer, temperature switch or even a possible failure in the motor centrifugal switch. There should be a technical data sheet located inside the control panel that will have the wiring diagram and some trouble shooting tips. Just remember that the heating element requires 220 volts in order to heat. The motor switch must close M1 and M2 in order to complete the L2 voltage path to one terminal of the heating element and the other leg of voltage is provided to the other heating element terminal when timer contact B and A closes which is then routed through the temperature switch and thermostats before reaching the heating element.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
April 25, 2011
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