Model #DBL333EB1WW GE Residential Dryer

  • Controls & Top Panel
    3 Results
  • Front Panel & Lint Filter
    3 Results
  • Cabinet & Drum
    3 Results
  • Motor
    3 Results
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Question and Answers

Q:

GE dryer modle DBL333EB1WW maint.

A:

I did some research on your model number but was not able to find out if lubricant is needed or not. Your expert will be able to help answer your question. It may take 24-48 hours. I do hope that everything works out on the dryer.

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Marc -
November 27, 2012
A:

Thanks for taking the time out to look, I don't think a little dry lube could hurt , but I'll wait for the expert, again thanks!!

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Chris fink -
November 27, 2012
A:

Thank you for your question and I understand your concern.

You can use any type of high temperature rated grease or you can order the lubricant from Sears Parts Direct. You do not need to use much of it too. The lubricant originally used is a high temperature rated grease.

I hope this is helpful. If I may be of further assistance as more details become available, please reply to this post.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
November 28, 2012
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Q:

I have another problem . the dryer in not working now. It is also a ge model #DBL333EB1WW. I check the voltage at the start switch it show 120v but there is no

A:

Having to keep on having issues with your appliance is very annoying having to fix one thing and than another happens. While you are waiting on an expert to answer your question, a suggestion I have is to visit Sears Home Services website to set service with a Sears technician. I have attached the link below. Hope this helps!

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Dezeray S -
May 11, 2011
A:

Hi Victor,

I am sorry you are having so much trouble with your appliances.

With the checks I gave you yesterday you have completed the neutral path to the motor, in the image below I have that traced out in green. The next thing you need to do is check continuity of the thermal limiter (fuse) and belt switch. I have these marked in blue. If these are closed (show continuity) then the wiring or timer may be at fault.

From the details you gave me yesterday, you have already demonstrated that you can and have performed live voltage checks. Live voltage checks are dangerous, and possibly deadly. Exercise caution at all times. If you are not comfortable working with live electricity I suggest you call an experienced service technician. The red lines (in the image) indicate L1 that feeds voltage to the motor from the timer. If those are closed and you have 120 VAC (Voltage Alternating Current) to M4 and M5 at the motor with the start and the door switch bypassed, then the motor is bad. If there is no voltage at the motor then the wiring or the timer are bad.

Here is a video that should help describe the general procedure for gaining access to the motor; GE dryer video .

Here is a link that you may use for parts purchases Sears Parts Direct . The parts that you may need I have listed for you: WE04X10094 THERMAL LIMITER, WE04X10096 BELT SWITCH, WE17X10002 MOTOR, and WH12X10079 TIMER.

I hope this is helpful. Check the things I have covered here and if I may be of further assistance as more details become available, please reply to this post.

Thanks again for using Manage My Life.

Landell

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Landell -
Sears Technician
May 13, 2011
A:

hi landell did as you have suggested and it points to the timer what test can I proform to make sure the timer is defective?

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victor -
May 24, 2011
A:

Hi victor, Assuming as we have discussed, that the neutral path is good here is about the only other thing you need to check. Using the diagram I gave you, locate timer contacts B (red wire) and C (white wire). UNPLUG your dryer; disconnect these wires from the timer. Place an insulated bypass wire across the red and white wires. Make sure that it is COMPLETELY INSULATED AND NO BARE SPOTS CAN TOUCH ANYTHING. Plug the dryer back in, and if it runs, replace the timer. DO NOT leave the bypass in place (THIS IS FOR TESTING ONLY) and continue using the dryer, this is dangerous and can cause a fire. I hope this is helpful. If I may be of further assistance as more details become available, please reply to this post. Thanks again for using Manage My Life. Landell

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Landell -
Sears Technician
May 25, 2011
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Q:

ge washer not draining

A:

I understand that your GE washer is not draining. I have taken some time to research your question here on the Manage My Life website and I noticed that someone else had asked a similar question with a posted response from an expert. I attached the link below if you are interested in viewing. I hope the link that I provided is helpful.

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Alina F. -
May 05, 2011
A:

Hi Victor,

Most likely the drain pump is clogged or blocked. You did not mention if you hear any noise during the drain portion of the cycle. If the is no sound coming from the lower portion of cabinet, voltage checks will need to be made. If you have a volt meter and are comfortable making live voltage checks I will be happy to provide you with those. If you do not feel confident in completing this type of project yourself, I recommend that have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services . I hope this is helpful. If I may be of further assistance as more details become available, please reply to this post. Thanks again for using Manage My Life.

Landell

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Landell -
Sears Technician
May 05, 2011
A:

yes I do have volt meter. I am comfortable in checking it .give me the info as to how and what ishould check.

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victor -
May 06, 2011
A:

Hi Victor, These checks can be made at the pump. _Always unplug or de-energize electrical equipment before removing covers or attempting service. Be careful and wear appropriate hand protection when working around sharp metal parts._ Take the front of the cabinet off. Beneath the top on each side there are 2 clips that can be released with a putty knife. The front panel will then pivot forward. Lift the front panel up and off. Remove the wires from the pump and attach the meter leads to those wires. Plug the washer back in and set it to drain spin and start. If you get 110-120Vac then the problem is with the pump. If you do not have voltage, then the wiring or timer are at fault. If I may be of further assistance please let me know. Thanks again for using Manage My Life. Landell

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Landell -
Sears Technician
May 06, 2011
A:

yes landell you were right the pump was clog. i unclog it and it is working fine thanks for your help. But I have another problem . the dryer in not working now. It is also a ge model #DBL333EB1WW. I check the voltage at the start switch it show 120v but there is no voltage at the door switch. what could be the problem?

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victor -
May 11, 2011
A:

Hi victor, I am happy I was able to help you with your dishwasher problem. Now on to the dryer, unplug the dryer, and remove the grey and tan wires from the start switch. Tape these wires together using electrical tape. Make sure the metal is covered and not touching anything else. Plug the dryer back in and if the dryer starts running you have a bad start switch. If the dryer does not start running, do the same thing with the door switch. Unplug the dryer and tape the grey and blue wires, plug the dryer in and if the dryer starts you will need to replace the lid switch. NOTE: DO NOT leave these switches bypassed. This is for TESTING ONLY. I have added a link below that you can use to purchase either one of these switches. I hope this is helpful. If I may be of further assistance as more details become available, please reply to this post. Thanks again for using Manage My Life. Landell

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Landell -
Sears Technician
May 11, 2011
A:

hi Landell, did all that you have suggested but still the dryer did not come on. what else should I check?

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victor -
May 12, 2011
A:

Hi Victor, I am sorry you are having so much trouble with your appliances. With the checks I gave you yesterday you have completed the neutral path to the motor, in the image below I have that traced out in green. The next thing you need to do is check continuity of the thermal limiter (fuse) and belt switch. I have these marked in blue. If these are closed (show continuity) then the wiring or timer may be at fault. From the details you gave me yesterday, you have already demonstrated that you can and have performed live voltage checks. Live voltage checks are dangerous, and possibly deadly. Exercise caution at all times. If you are not comfortable working with live electricity I suggest you call an experienced service technician. The red lines (in the image) indicate L1 that feeds voltage to the motor from the timer. If those are closed and you have 120 VAC (Voltage Alternating Current) to M4 and M5 at the motor with the start and the door switch bypassed, then the motor is bad. If there is no voltage at the motor then the wiring or the timer are bad. Below is a link to a video that should help describe the general procedure for gaining access to the motor. There is also a link that you may use for parts purchases at Sears Parts Direct. I hope this is helpful. Check the things I have covered here and if I may be of further assistance as more details become available, please reply to this post. Thanks again for using Manage My Life. Landell

Read More
Landell -
Sears Technician
May 12, 2011
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