Model #AER5845QAB AMANA Free Standing, Electric

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Question and Answers

Q:

why wont my oven heat past 250 degrees

A:

I understand that your oven is not heating past 250 degrees. I have taken some time to research your questions here on Manage My Life and I noticed that someone else had asked a similar question with a posted response from an expert. I have attached the link below for you to view while you wait on an expert response. I hope the link that I have provided you is helpful.

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Alina F. -
December 09, 2010
A:

A number of different failures could prevent the oven from heating properly. You could have a problem with the oven temperature sensor probe or one of the elements in the oven. A wiring failure or a bad electronic control board could also cause this problem.

Diagnosing and repairing this failure will require some relatively advanced technician tests. If you are not able to safely access the components in the range and perform the checks described below, I recommend that you have a service technician repair the range. Here is a link for the Sears Service website in case you need it: Sears Home Services .

You can conduct the "Quick Test" shown in the first image below. Start the Quick Test mode and see if the bake element will heat using this mode. Check the broil element as well. Unplug the range to exit this test mode after checking to see if both the bake and broil elements heat properly. If one element does not heat, you can unplug the range and check the resistance of that element with a volt/ohm meter. Use the testing information in the second image. If the element is "open" or way out of the resistance range shown, then you will need to replace the bad element. The 4th image below shows access information for this range.

If both elements heat properly, I recommend that you check for fault codes using the information in the first image. If you see no fault codes, I recommend that you check the oven temperature sensor resistance. The testing information for the sensor is in the second image below.

The third image shows the wiring diagram for this range. If neither element (bake and broil) heat, then you could have a bad high limit switch. This component is mounted on the outside back wall of the oven. It may have a red reset button that will reset it. If it is "open" and will not reset then it will need to be replaced.

These tips may help you diagnose and repair the range. If you need parts, you can order them from the Sears PartsDirect website. If you need more assistance, reply with additional details.

Be sure that you unplug the range before accessing internal components.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
December 10, 2010
A:

Dear Lyle, I am having the same problem with my Elite model # 790.9664.3700. Could you post the component testing procedures for this model as you have for the thread above? Thank you very much for your help.

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Lisa -
April 17, 2012
A:

Hello Lisa. That model 790.96643700 has a temperature sensor that is shown in the first video link that I provided below. Be sure that you UNPLUG the range before accessing internal components. The second link below shows how to test that sensor using a volt/ohm meter. I recommend that you UNPLUG the range and access that sensor. Test the sensor as shown in that second video. That sensor should measure around 1100 ohms at room temperature. If that sensor is bad, then it will need to be replaced. You can order that sensor from this page: Oven Temperature Senor Probe for Kenmore Range 790.96643700 . If that sensor probe is okay, then you can plug that component back into the harness and measure the resistance from the clock control board in the console. I provided a video for accessing that control (with the range still UNPLUGGED) in the third link below. I provided a wiring diagram in the image below. That sensor circuit is marked in violet. You can measure the resistance through that circuit from the control board. If that circuit is okay (measures 1100 ohms) then you can check the bake and broil circuits (traced in wire colors that you should see). Those circuits should measure around 15 to 30 ohms of resistance (yellow to orange for bake and blue to orange for broil). If those circuits are okay, then you will probably need to replace that clock control board. If an element is bad, then it will need to be replaced. These tips should help you with this failure. If you need more assistance, reply with additional details.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
April 17, 2012
A:

Thanks so much, Lyle. L2 on the control board is fried so no need to test for resistance. The temp. probe was okay. Can I remove the oven control board and still use the surface elements while waiting for the board to arrive?

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Lisa -
April 21, 2012
A:

Hey Lyle. Also, I wanted to mention that the connector that houses the orange and yellow wires was fried on the orange side. In other words the connector and the OCB were one. I've had the range for only 3 years with normal usage. What could possibly have caused this and can I prevent it happening again? Thank you very much for your help.

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Lisa -
April 22, 2012
A:

Hello Lisa. There are times when a short in the bake or the broil element will cause damage to the oven control circuit board. Look for any damage to the bake and broil elements. If you replaced that control board and all of the elements are working normally then you probably do not have any issues with those elements at this time. That control board has high amperage running through it. Although many of those control boards will normally last 15 years or more, there is always a chance for failure in that type of control board at any time. It will not likely occur again in your case but there is always that chance. Power surges or glitches through the electrical lines can also cause damage to that control board. There is nothing that you can really do to prevent that type of damage. If it is not an inconvenience, you can unplug the range or shut off the circuit breakers during an electrical storm. That is when those power surges through the electrical lines are most likely to happen. I have one other tip. Use that self clean feature wisely. Run it when you see a significant amount of residue or spills in the oven. Wipe out any excess spillovers. This will help prevent that oven cavity from overheating during that clean cycle and should help the elements last longer. If you have any other questions or need more help, let us know.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
April 23, 2012
A:

Thank you Lyle. You have been a God send. one more question: The plastic clip housing for the orange and yellow wiring that snaps into the OCB is burnt through on L2. I suppose I need to replace that also. Can you direct me to the site that has that part listed? I don't see it on the parts direct web site. Thank you again!

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Lisa -
April 23, 2012
A:

I believe that the clips that you are describing are part of the main wiring harness (part 316506209). You can order that part from this link: Main Wiring Harness for Kenmore Range 790.96643700 . That is a fairly expensive harness. If for some reason that does not have the clip that you need, then you should be able to return it. If you have a local electronic supply store or an appliance parts store, you can check those stores to see if they have a clip that will match the one that is damaged. I hope that this additional information helps. If you need more assistance, let us know.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
April 23, 2012
A:

Hi Lyle. I replaced the OCB and Viola! Works better than the original. The OCB even displays the temperature as it is ramping up to the preset. That's something the original OCB did not do. Thank you so much for your expertise and research.

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Lisa -
June 07, 2012
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